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Saturday, 26 September 2015
Friday, 25 September 2015
Thursday, 24 September 2015
DIY How To Replace Spark Plugs
If opening your car's glove compartment rates as your high water mark for mechanical achievement, this article is for you. In it you'll learn how to change your car's spark plugs--necessary as part of regular car maintenance. And while it won't elevate you to mechanical high priest status, it will provide you with a heady sense of engine-intrepidity and save you cash on maintenance costs.
Once you know what to do and what to look for, changing your spark plugs will seem as easy as changing a flat or replacing an air filter. Depending on your vehicle and experience, this task may take you no longer than 40-60 minutes.
Needed Tools
Before you can begin any task, you must have the necessary tools. Otherwise, you'll spend more time hunting for what you need than you'll spend actually changing your spark plugs.
You may need:
Step-by-Step Procedures
Once you know what to do and what to look for, changing your spark plugs will seem as easy as changing a flat or replacing an air filter. Depending on your vehicle and experience, this task may take you no longer than 40-60 minutes.
Needed Tools
Before you can begin any task, you must have the necessary tools. Otherwise, you'll spend more time hunting for what you need than you'll spend actually changing your spark plugs.
You may need:
- 3/8 inch ratchet
- Ratchet extensions
- Spark plug socket
- Spark plug gap gauge
- 3/8 inch swivel socket
- Compressed air canister
Step-by-Step Procedures
- Before you begin grabbing, pulling, and ratcheting, make sure that the engine is cold and that you have the correct spark plugs for your vehicle. Installing incorrect plugs can corrupt the engine. Ask your auto supply store for the correct application or check your car owner manual.
- Disconnect the spark plug wire from the plug. Do not yank by the wire like you're extracting carrots from a garden, but by tugging on the boot. If the boot resists, try twisting left and right to loosen. Be sure to change each plug one at a time, especially if this is your first spark plug venture; otherwise you risk trying to guess which plug matches with which wire.
- Before removing the plug, put on eye protection and clean the spark plug area with the compressed air canister. This will prevent any dirt from falling into the cylinder when the spark plug is detached. Dirt to an engine is the equivalent of a cold germ to a human.
- Using the spark plug ratchet, begin unscrewing the plug by turning counterclockwise. Once the plug is loose enough, finish by removing it by hand.
- Before inserting the new spark plug into the valve, use the gap gauge to calculate a proper gap. Consult your vehicle's user manual or the specifications decal under the hood for your car's exact gap size. Creating the correct gap is very important. A gap that is too small or too wide will fleece your engine of power and fuel efficiency.
- To gap your plug, insert the gauge in between the bottom of the plug (inner electrode) and the hook (outer electrode), which resembles a small awning. Depending on your vehicle's specifications you will then either need to bend the hook lower or higher.
- Before inserting the new spark plug, double-check that the cylinder's threads are free of dirt. Otherwise the spark plug will not insert properly. If you feel ambitious lubricate the threads with a never-seize compound so as to assure easy removal next time it comes to switching the plugs.
- Begin screwing in the spark plug by hand until it's firmly secure. Finish tightening with the ratchet.
- Reattach the plug wire, using a twisting motion to properly position the boot above the plug. When you hear a click you'll know the wire has precisely connected with the spark plug.
- Repeat these same steps with the other spark plugs, replacing each plug one at a time.
Wednesday, 23 September 2015
Thursday, 17 September 2015
DIY How To Replace Your Windshield Wipers
Although we swear to ourselves not to wait until the next hurricane, rain storm, or blizzard to realize we need new wipers, we usually do. Inevitably, we're just trying to get home from a long day at the office when a sudden downpour starts; we fire up the wipers and they can't clear the water.
There we are squinting through the blurry windshield trying to make out the radar blip of distant taillights, cursing ourselves for not changing the wipers the last time we said we were going to.
If you get your oil changed regularly, you're probably in good shape. Service stations check the wipers for you.
But, if you're a do-it-yourselfer, then you just might let the wipers deteriorate to rubber bits until the day you need them.
To prevent this frustration, the next time you're at a gas station or auto parts store, pick up a couple of replacements to have on hand. Depending on what part of the county you are in, the rubber wiper portions generally only last six months to one year.
And just because you live in a region country where it barely drips rain, do not be misled into thinking your wipers are immortal. They aren't. The sun is bakes and cracks them into oblivion. Plus, if you use your wipers to constantly clear road gunk from the windshield, those bits of debris that are seeming tossed to the wayside slowly eat away at the wipers.
If you do have a pair of wipers handy, they are easy to change. You can opt to switch out only the rubber portion of the blade that squeegees the windshield, but in most cases you'll change the whole blade. The entire gadget consists of an arm and a blade. The blade directly attaches to the arm, and is comprised of a mount and the metal-covered-by-rubber slab.
Before you purchase refill blades or replacement rubber strips, either check the length with a tape measure or look in the manual for the proper size (usually they range from 16-21 inches). Also, your local auto parts store should have manuals that match up every car ever manufactured with a correct replacement.
Signs You Need to Replace Your Wipers
Tools for the Change
Hook Slot Connector―This type of blade is the easiest to change. Bring the arm to a right angle and search out the flap that attaches the wiper in the slot. Either push it in or unlatch it. One way or the other will release the blade and allow you to pull it out. If it poses any difficulty, tug it with pliers. Insert the new wiper and slide it along the slot until you feel or hear it snap into place.
Pin Type Arm― Basically uses the same concept of the hook-slot arm, except you will see a pin rather than a tab. Press on the pin from behind the blade or lift the pin out (most likely will entail the use of a screwdriver). Jiggle the blade until it fully releases. Lock the new blade into the pins.
Straight-End Connector―Changing this type can be a drag, because it tends to be more difficult. If there is a notch or tab that secures the blade, you only need to release it using your screwdriver. Pull the blade out and install the new one by sliding it in and locking it.
This is the simplified version. The other involves having to deal with screws the size of ants that hold the blade in. Take out the screws to remove the old blade and install the new one. Note that the screws are fragile so take it easy when securing them.
Now that your new wiper blades are in place, you should be able to have a clear view of the road ahead―regardless of the weather.
There we are squinting through the blurry windshield trying to make out the radar blip of distant taillights, cursing ourselves for not changing the wipers the last time we said we were going to.
If you get your oil changed regularly, you're probably in good shape. Service stations check the wipers for you.
But, if you're a do-it-yourselfer, then you just might let the wipers deteriorate to rubber bits until the day you need them.
To prevent this frustration, the next time you're at a gas station or auto parts store, pick up a couple of replacements to have on hand. Depending on what part of the county you are in, the rubber wiper portions generally only last six months to one year.
And just because you live in a region country where it barely drips rain, do not be misled into thinking your wipers are immortal. They aren't. The sun is bakes and cracks them into oblivion. Plus, if you use your wipers to constantly clear road gunk from the windshield, those bits of debris that are seeming tossed to the wayside slowly eat away at the wipers.
If you do have a pair of wipers handy, they are easy to change. You can opt to switch out only the rubber portion of the blade that squeegees the windshield, but in most cases you'll change the whole blade. The entire gadget consists of an arm and a blade. The blade directly attaches to the arm, and is comprised of a mount and the metal-covered-by-rubber slab.
Before you purchase refill blades or replacement rubber strips, either check the length with a tape measure or look in the manual for the proper size (usually they range from 16-21 inches). Also, your local auto parts store should have manuals that match up every car ever manufactured with a correct replacement.
Signs You Need to Replace Your Wipers
- Windshield streaking
- Windshield smearing
- Wiper screeching
- Wiper is brittle with rubber flaking off at the touch
- Wiper is frayed
Tools for the Change
- Screwdriver
- Tape measure
- Needle-nose pliers
Hook Slot Connector―This type of blade is the easiest to change. Bring the arm to a right angle and search out the flap that attaches the wiper in the slot. Either push it in or unlatch it. One way or the other will release the blade and allow you to pull it out. If it poses any difficulty, tug it with pliers. Insert the new wiper and slide it along the slot until you feel or hear it snap into place.
Pin Type Arm― Basically uses the same concept of the hook-slot arm, except you will see a pin rather than a tab. Press on the pin from behind the blade or lift the pin out (most likely will entail the use of a screwdriver). Jiggle the blade until it fully releases. Lock the new blade into the pins.
Straight-End Connector―Changing this type can be a drag, because it tends to be more difficult. If there is a notch or tab that secures the blade, you only need to release it using your screwdriver. Pull the blade out and install the new one by sliding it in and locking it.
This is the simplified version. The other involves having to deal with screws the size of ants that hold the blade in. Take out the screws to remove the old blade and install the new one. Note that the screws are fragile so take it easy when securing them.
Now that your new wiper blades are in place, you should be able to have a clear view of the road ahead―regardless of the weather.
Thursday, 10 September 2015
DIY How to Replace Fuel Hoses?
Fuel hoses rarely need to be changed, but if yours leaks or was damaged while changing a fuel filter, you'll need to make this repair.
NOTE: Because replacing a fuel hose can be quite dangerous, this is a fix better left to an experienced mechanic--this is not considered routine car maintenance.
Safety First
Since dealing with fuel lines could end in a giant fireball, follow all gasoline safety precautions. Don't smoke, make sure there's plenty of ventilation, and properly dispose of all gasoline-soaked rags, old parts, hoses, and any other items contaminated by gasoline. Keep a current and charged fire extinguisher handy, and do not forget to disconnect the vehicle's battery before you begin.
What You'll Need
It's important to use the correct tools for the job. Using the wrong tool, or using the right in the wrong way, may cause sparking. So make sure you've got correct tools before you start.
You must always replace the fuel filter on your vehicle if you will be changing the fuel hose.
Remove the Old Fuel Line
Once you have all your tools and new parts at the ready, you can begin the process of replacing your fuel hose.
Attach the New Fuel Hose
Now that you've got the old hose removed, here's the steps you'll need to take:
That's it! You've just replaced your fuel line. May you have excellent gas mileage, perfect performance, and a great ride.
NOTE: Because replacing a fuel hose can be quite dangerous, this is a fix better left to an experienced mechanic--this is not considered routine car maintenance.
Safety First
Since dealing with fuel lines could end in a giant fireball, follow all gasoline safety precautions. Don't smoke, make sure there's plenty of ventilation, and properly dispose of all gasoline-soaked rags, old parts, hoses, and any other items contaminated by gasoline. Keep a current and charged fire extinguisher handy, and do not forget to disconnect the vehicle's battery before you begin.
What You'll Need
It's important to use the correct tools for the job. Using the wrong tool, or using the right in the wrong way, may cause sparking. So make sure you've got correct tools before you start.
- The service manual for your vehicle year, make, and model.
- A dozen or so clean, dry shop rags to catch excess fuel.
- Screwdriver or other tool as required to remove the hose clamps.
- Pair of regular pliers.
- Standard razor knife with blade-locking capability.
- Fuel filter for you vehicle's make and model.
You must always replace the fuel filter on your vehicle if you will be changing the fuel hose.
Remove the Old Fuel Line
Once you have all your tools and new parts at the ready, you can begin the process of replacing your fuel hose.
- Locate the fuse box and remove the fuel pump fuse.
- Start the engine and run it until it stops.
- Remove the fuel filter and trace the fuel line to the transfer unit.
- Remove the air cleaner if you are changing the hose leading from the fuel filter to the carburetor.
- Put rags under the end of the hose where the gasoline will come out.
- Loosen the metal hose clamps just until the clamp slides back over the bump that is close to the end of the line.
- Place a rag over the end of the hose as you remove it from the filter.
- If the hose sticks and is difficult to remove, use the pliers to grip and turn the hose.
- If the hose still does not come away easily, use the razor knife to split the hose along the direction of the line.
- Have the shop rags ready, because the fuel in the line will begin to drain once the hose has been removed.
- Remove the fuel line from the steel tube at the fuel block. Twist it a bit if it is stuck.
- After you remove the hose, clean off any dirt, hardened rubber, fuel, or other contaminants from the steel tube.
- Place the old hose on your work bench to measure the new hose.
Attach the New Fuel Hose
Now that you've got the old hose removed, here's the steps you'll need to take:
- Place the still-loose clamps over the new fuel hose.
- Be sure the clamp screws face the correct direction for easy tightening.
- Check the new fuel filter to be sure it faces the correct fuel-flow direction.
- Place the hose ends on the steel tube and at the new fuel filter.
- Check the new fuel line for fit. If there are any kinks in the hose, remove the hose and trim a bit from the ends.
- Replace the clamps in the correct position and tighten the screws to hold them firmly in place.
- Reattach the hose to the new fuel filter, and then tighten the clamp.
- Reattach the vehicle's battery cables.
- Dispose of gasoline soaked rags, the old fuel line, and any contaminated items properly.
That's it! You've just replaced your fuel line. May you have excellent gas mileage, perfect performance, and a great ride.
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