5 Causes of a Warped Wheel Hub

There are many reasons why the wheel hub gets warped. Getting a warped wheel hub is not easy especially if you are on the road. Since prevention is the best form of cure, you need to know the different causes why the wheel hub gets warped. Heat is the main cause of warping. Since there is too much friction exerted onto the system, the system couldn’t handle the heat; if there is too much pressure, then this would lead to warping.

Steering Wheel

If you are driving and you feel a vibration on your steering wheel, this could indicate there’s something wrong with your hub. If the vibration feels unusual, you need to have your wheel hub checked. Remember, vibration could be an indication that your wheel hub is warped.

Too Much Pressure

This is the most common indication of a warped heel hub. Too much friction on the hub can also affect your rotors. When braking, try to slow down first as it allows the rotors to cool down. If there is too much pressure exerted on the wheel hub can cause it to vibrate later on. This could also lead to a bent spindle. If the spindle is bent, you will need to take this to a repair shop to have it straightened..

Lack of Oil

You need to have your wheel hub oiled from time to time. Having your wheel hub oiled will make its system flexible. Although, you need to consider that you need to have the system cleaned to make sure there is no grease build-up and it is free from dirt. Oiling the system makes the hub resilient to corroding. The lack of lubrication makes it hard for the system to shift whenever the vehicle accelerates or decelerates in its speed.


Warped Rotor

A warped rotor can be a cause of a warped wheel hub. Take note, these 2 parts rely on each other in order to function. If you have problems with your rotor, there’s a definite chance you may encounter problems with your wheel hub. If the warped rotor is not properly fitted, this could affect the performance of the system. So take note when you have your rotors replaced. The fitting should not be too tight or too loose. If it’s too tight this could lead to overheating since it prevents the lubricant from having a barrier. If it’s too loose, this could also affect its performance since the hub will cause excessive movement.

Loose Nuts and Bolts

Loose nuts and bolts could cause the wheel hub to warp. Just like the fittings of the rotors, when the nuts and bolts are not secured properly, this could lead to excessive movement. And such movement could affect the flexibility of the system. When the bolts and nuts are too tight, it limits the flexibility, causing more friction that may lead to overheating. The best thing you can do to prevent this is to have your wheel hub checked often.

How to Replace a Spark Plug in a Car？

 How to Replace a Spark Plug in a Car？

1. Wait for Your Car Engine to Cool Down

Finding a spark plug that fits your vehicle is simple. What I do is go to the spark plugs page on Amazon and enter my vehicle year, make and model into their "filter by vehicle" search.

If you skip this step, you might find it impossible to remove the spark plugs from your engine without ruining the threads. This is especially true for aluminium cylinder heads. While it is possible to repair a misthreaded spark plug hole, but it is difficult and should be left to a professional.

2. Blow Out Debris Around Spark Plugs

Blow off any dust, dirt or debris around and near the spark plug with a compressed air duster. The last thing you'll want is foreign particles falling DIRECTLY into your engine and possibly causing premature engine wear.

3. Make Sure Spark Plugs are Screwed in Straight

If spark plugs go in crooked, they can cross thread and you will have a problem. To make sure my spark plugs are screwed in straight, I like to wiggle them a bit as I'm inserting them in. If you notice the spark plug getting tight right at the beginning... then stop, take it out and restarting the screwing process.

4. Change Spark Plugs One at a Time

It is VERY easy to get the wires all mixed up, so just play it safe and do them one by one. If you have a car with a coil-on-plug system then this is not as much of a worry. Also, most all newer cars make it hard to put parts in the wrong place, but you have to be more careful with most older cars.

How a Car Ignition System Works

You probably rely on your car for transportation, but do you ever consider its ignition system? Though they have advanced quite a bit since their initial invention, ingnitions systems are relatively similar between different models of cars. Read on to learn about the basics of your car's system.

Purpose

Your car's ignition system has one main purpose: to ignite your gasoline. In order to do this, it must conduct electricity from your battery, concentrate it into powerful sparks and time those sparks properly to line up with the needs of each one of your cylinders.

Internal Combustion

Your car converts gasoline into motion by drawing it and air into a chamber, compressing it, then igniting it, which causes it to expand. This pushes a piston which turns your wheels. On the way back, the piston pushes out exhaust, leaving the chamber small and able to be refilled with flammable gasoline and air once again.

The internal combustion engine requires perfect timing to ignite the gas at the right moment when the chamber is at the right size. Your ignition system ignites your gasoline while making sure the timing is right.

Ignition Coil

Your car's ignition coil takes electricity from your battery and uses it to create a spark. This spark, unlike electricity straight from your battery, is strong enough to ignite gasoline. Your ignition coil uses two coils, know as the primary and secondary coil. The primary coil collects electrical power, while the secondary takes that electrical power from the primary coil and sends it to the next part of the ignition system - the distributor.

Distributor

Each cylinder in your car engine must be ignited at the correct time. Your car's distributor chooses which cylinder to ignite, and when. Your distributor constantly rotates, due to being attached to your rotor. As it rotates, its coil passes contacts at fixed points that surround it, allowing electricity to arc between your distributor and your. Each of these contacts is connected to a different cylinder in your engine. Your distributor's cap and rotor are responsible for regulating the speed the distributor rotates, and the timing of the sparks.

Most of these parts are commonly replaced during tune ups, since even small irregularities can result in serious inefficiency.

Other

Most ignition systems work as described above, but some more recent systems do not use a distributor at all. Instead of one connection that rotates to connect with every cylinder, distributorless ignition systems have many stationary coils that are controlled by a computer chip.

This has two main advantages over a distributor. First, it has fewer moving parts, and therefore requires less maintenance and replacement. Second, it allows more precise timing, giving your car engine better mileage.

How to Replace Brake Boosters

A brake booster is a critical component of many braking systems. It magnifies the slowing or stopping force of the existing system, making it more powerful and more effective. To have a brake booster go out basically equates to having the entire mechanism go out, as the remainder of the system is designed to have the booster in place. Replacing the booster isn't a difficult matter; if you can change your brake pads and bleed your brakes, you can change the booster. It isn't usually an expensive part either, typically around 100 dollars. Here, you will find the information needed on how to replace this part.

Step 1 - Find the Brake Booster

This part is located adjacent to the master cylinder. There will be four mounting screws protruding through it to secure it in place. The booster is also attached to the brake pedal in the interior of the car. This is where you will start.

Step 2 - Remove the Brake Booster

The booster will be attached to the brake pedal with a piece called a booster rod. This goes through the firewall and is typically secured to the pedal with a cotter pin. There may also be nuts. Remove the fasteners, regardless of what they are, and set them aside in a plastic bag. Your new brake booster will not come with replacement fasteners, so it's important that you keep these.

Slide the rod off the brake pedal. Then, disconnect the vacuum brake line that connects to the booster. In the engine compartment, four bolts will secure the booster to the master cylinder and firewall. Loosen and remove these. There are usually two more in addition to these four that will secure the brake booster to the master cylinder; these should also be removed. Wiggle the brake booster away from the master cylinder once it's free. There will be a seal between the two that you need to keep as well, as the new part does not generally come with another one. Finally, remove the brake booster completely.

Step 3 - Install the New Brake Booster

Set the new brake booster on the four mounting screws, and tighten the nuts on the bolts to the master cylinder. Start these by hand so that the threads are not ruined. Then, insert the push rod through the firewall, and reattach the vacuum hose. Secure the nuts to the four mounting screws, and then finally reattach the push rod to the brake pedal by whatever means it was originally secured with, whether by cotter pin or by bolts.

Step 4 - Bleed the Brakes

You will need to bleed the brakes after replacing the brake booster. Once this is finished, your break system should be fixed and ready to go!

How to Perform a Brake Booster Push Rod Adjustment

To make sure you car’s brake system functions safely, it’s important to regulate the brake-booster push-rod adjustment. If your push rod isn’t the correct length, it can cause issues, like a soft car pedal. Not only is a soft pedal annoying to deal with, but also it can be a safety hazard. Learn how to adjust your brake system’s push rod by following the steps below.

Step 1 – Prepare the Car
 
Before beginning, put the car in "park" or "neutral." Then, set the emergency brake and raise the hood. Carefully disconnect the negative battery terminal to ensure there is no power running through the vehicle before working on it.

Step 2 – Identify the Correct Push-Rod Length
 
Next, you must figure out the correct length your push rod should be. A too-long rod might make the brakes drag in your automobile, but if a rod is too short, it will make noises. For correct and reliable braking, use a push-rod checking kit or push-rod depth gauge to identify the correct length. Follow the directions that come with the kit to get the correct length, usually around .020 inches.

Step 3 – Make Adjustments to the Push Rod
 
Disconnect the cylinder and locate the push rod. Using your pliers, adjust the push rod to the appropriate length. Turn the adjusting nut on the push rod inward or outward to shorten or lengthen the rod.


Step 4 – Reconnect Cable to Battery

Once you’ve adjusted the push rod to the appropriate size, reconnect the power and test out your brakes to see if the problem has been fixed.