Wednesday 27 July 2016

How to replace wheel bearing by 23pc front wheel bearing removal tool

How to replace fuel Injector?DNT Tools


Before you begin the process of replacing a fuel injector or fuel injection rail, you need to think about safety. Always keep fire safety in mind when you are working with fuel. You also need to be sure you are wearing eye protection. Even if you've released the pressure in the fuel injection system, there could be some fuel flying when you start disconnecting high pressure lines and removing injectors.

Starting Out:

Be sure to follow the procedure for relieving the fuel system pressure. Very important!
Look over your car's injection system. Some systems are easily accessible and others are practically buried. Plan your attack so your job can be organized
It's a good idea to get a fuel injector puller if you are removing fuel injectors. There are other ways to do it, but you risk damaging expensive fuel injection components.


Disconnecting the Fuel Rail


If your fuel injection system has a fuel rail to deliver fuel to the fuel injectors, you will ahve to remove this before you are able to remove the injectors. This is an easy job.

First, disconnect the main fuel line at the end of the rail. There may be an additional line at the other end, so remove that one, too. The fuel rail is help in place by screws or bolts, depending on your car's setup. Remove these screws or bolts.

If your wiring travels over the top of the rail, see the next step to disconnect the wiring first. With everything disconnected from the rail, pull it away from the fuel injectors. Most fuel rails are just pressed onto the injector tops, once you've removed the hold down screws or bolts it should pull away, with a little oomph.

Disconnecting the Fuel Injectors



If your car uses a fuel rail to deliver fuel to the injectors, you removed it in the previous step. If you don't have a fuel rail, you'll need to remove a fuel line from the top of each injector. It's just as easy to remove, just do it carefully.

With the fuel delivery out of the way, you're ready to disconnect the fuel injectors. Each injector will have a plug at the top (or on the side near the top) that connects to the wiring harness..

Most fuel injector wiring plugs are held securely in place by a springy wire (see pic). To remove this wire, just insert a flat head screwdriver in the space between the spring and the plug and pry it carefully away. It will come out easily. Don't lose it!


Pulling the Fuel Injector





With all of the other stuff out of the way, you're ready to yank the injector. Unfortunately, many people really do try to yank them out. Remember, your fuel injectors sit right in the middle of the delicate are of the engine, so any piece you break off might fall in, and this equals big pain in your fanny.

The safest way to remove a fuel injector is to use a fuel injector puller. There are other ways to remove fuel injectors, but if you aren't careful you could damage some expensive fuel injection components.

Besides, the injector puller makes it so easy, just slide it underneath the lip in the injector housing and pop the injector out.

Your fuel injector goes into what amounts to a hole in the intake manifold (or your head if you're lucky). When you remove the injector, you leave this hole open. Be very careful to keep anything from falling in. This can be a real chore to fix.

In the immortal words of every auto repair tutorial, installation is the reverse of removal! You'll need to lubricate the new injector seals before they go in, and remember to go easy, don't force anything in.

Thursday 21 July 2016

How to Replace a Front End Cover? DNT Tools



Safety Tip:
Always wear safety glasses when working on your vehicle. Wear other personal protective equipment (PPE) when necessary, for example latex gloves or closed toe shoes.

1.Locate your front end cover.
2.Inspect your front end cover for tears, holes or missing sections that expose the body panels.
3.Remove the damaged front end cover from your vehicle. Most front end covers are held in place by a bendable metal tab on the cover that is wrapped in elastic material located on the edge of the front end cover. Some applications may require installing pop riveted or screwed in tabs that hold the front end cover on by snapping into place.
4.Inspect the body panels of your vehicle that were exposed under the damaged front end cover and make repairs as needed.
5.Remove the new front end cover from the box and lay over the vehicle to ensure the front end cover is the proper size.
6.Allow the cover to sit in direct sunlight or be heated until the material is pliable enough to stretch over the front end of the vehicle for proper mounting.
7.Clean the front end surfaces that will be under the cover before installation. Any dirt under the cover will act as sandpaper on the paint during any movement of the front end cover.
8.Secure the front end cover in place either by bending the tabs around the bumper, fender and hood or snapping it into place with the tabs provided.
9.Road test the vehicle to ensure the front end cover is properly fitted when it is installed. Make sure there the front end cover does not flail in the wind. If flapping occurs it will cause damage to the paint, and will wear out the cover in a short amount of time.

Wednesday 13 July 2016

5 Simple Car Repairs You Should Know DNT Tools reviewed

One of the great joys of car ownership is doing something on it yourself. Even if you're not a technical person, there are some very simple repairs or modifications that you can undertake yourself in the garage or driveway.



And while some of these may be exceedingly simple to people that are experienced, enthusiasts that are just starting out or who may be intimidated by mechanical work need to start somewhere. These simple tasks will get you to know your car better and possibly make you move on to more complicated tasks in the future.


1. Changing your oil
2. Changing spark plugs
3. Bleeding brakes.
4. Installing new shocks
5. Replace brake pads



Wednesday 6 July 2016

easy to remove valve springs by overhead valve spring compressor

How To Replace a Ball Joint?Step by step

Preparing to Replace Your Ball Joint


Before you begin the process of ball joint replacement, or any procedure that involves working underneath your vehicle, you should be sure it is safely supported on jack stands. Never work on your car supported by a jack alone!

Now that you have safety on your mind, you can proceed to Chuck's excellent repair steps. This procedure was performed on a Hummer, but is similar for any vehicle. Maybe a little less heavy duty, but same stuff.


Cleaning Up Before You Start ... and More Safety!

The first thing I like to do is to power wash the mud and grease off the area I'm going to be working on getting all the dirt out of the threads. When you're working on the floor without a lift having big clumps of mud and grease drop on your face and in your eyes isn't pleasant. Next spray all the nuts and bolts with WD-40 or PB Blaster and let it soak in. This will save you a bunch of work trying to remove stuck bolts.


Once you remove the nuts, bolts and washers clean off the threads and wipe all the crud off the washers.

Removing the Ball Joint


Remove the wheels.

Using a 9/16" socket and wrench remove the 4 top bolts. and pull out the ball joint. Yea right! If you never did one of these before you're in for a surprise. The ball joints are all tightly seated in tapered holes. You will need a ball joint separator otherwise called a pickle fork to get the uppers off. You can bang the lowers up and out with a heavy hammer but the half shaft is in the way of using a hammer on the uppers.

 
Remove the cotter pin and slotted nut (15/16" socket) from the lower bolt and toss out the old pin. Take a 15/16" ball joint separator (pickle fork) and whack it with a heavy hammer until the ball joint pops up out of the tapered hole. The geared hub will drop down out of the way supported by the lower ball joint. You can now pull the old ball joint up and out of the upper control arm.

Installing a New Upper Ball Joint


Clean all debris around the hole in the hub and the upper control arm. Drop the new ball joint into the hole in the upper control arm. Make sure that the rubber boot does not get pinched in the control arm hole. Push it down clear through.
Bolt the Ball joint to the hub first and then to the A arm.

Put a small jack under the geared hub and raise it until the new ball joint bolt is through the upper geared hub hole.

Hand tighten the slotted nut.

Line up the new ball joint and drop the 4 bolts and washers into the holes. Tighten the bolts to 37 ft-lbs. Tighten the 15/16" bolt to 73 ft-lbs while lining up the slot in the nut with the hole in the bolt. Tighten the nut to line it up; never loosen. Insert a new cotter pin.


Removing the Lower Ball Joint


Note: If your vehicle has only one ball joint (most do) this is your procedure.

Notice that the bolts on the front lower ball joint are not all facing the same direction. The outside bolts have their heads facing up. On the rear the nuts are all facing up. The lower ball joint bolts are a different size then the upper bolts. The bolt heads take a 5/8" and the nuts take an 11/16" wrench. Remove the 4 bolts that hold the lower ball joint to the lower control arm.

The 2 bolts on the ends are the hardest ones to remove. It's very difficult to get a wrench on the bolt underneath the ball joint because the control arm wraps around it. I used a thick Craftsman open end wrench pushed on the hex vertically. One of the nuts was so tight I had to heat it up with a propane torch. Remove the cotter pin from the slotted nut and unscrew the nut using a 15/16" socket.

Raise the lower control arm up fairly high (not the geared hub) with a jack and hammer the ball joint till it breaks loose. Jack the arm up a little more and pull the bottom of the geared hub away from the control arm while pulling and rotating the ball joint up and out sideways.

Installing the Lower Ball Joint


Bend the new joint all the way over to the side. Twist the joint about 90 degrees and it will drop into the hole in the lower geared hub. The first time I tried to put one in I tried to get it in straight and it got caught up and jammed on a small ridge which is part of the geared hub casting. The lower joint goes under the lower control arm.

Start the slotted nut on the bottom ball joint. Slip the ball joint under the the lower control arm, line up the holes and replace the 4 nuts, bolts and 8 washers.

Torque these to 65 ft-lbs. Remember that the outside 2 bolts are heads up on the front. Tighten the 15/16" slotted nut to 73 ft-lbs while lining up the slot in the nut with the hole in the bolt.

Grease all the ball joints until grease oozes out of the seal. Install your wheels, lower the jacks and you're ready to go. You might want to get your alignment checked.