How and Why to Change Your Manual Transmission Fluid

Your car's manual transmission fluid is more important than you think. Though it doesn't have to be changed as often as motor oil, fresh gearbox fluid keeps your stick-shift transmission from overheating and tearing itself apart. That's why Jason Fenske from Engineering Explained is here to show you how to change your car's transmission fluid right in your garage.

Since manual transmissions do their jobs through a lot of metal-to-metal contact, they need lubricant to soften touch points and keep everything running smoothly. Over time, that fluid gets dirty and worn out, and needs to be changed.

The first step is getting your car in the air and sitting level. This lets you access the transmission and insures you'll fill it to the correct level.

Next, find the fill plug on the upper portion of the transmission housing and unscrew it. Then, find the drain plug, and undo that to drain the gearbox. Make sure to have a catch pan ready.

After everything's drained, reinstall the drain plug with a new washer, and refill the transmission, using a transfer pump to get the fluid up into the filler hole.

Replace the fill plug with a new washer, clean up any excess fluid, and boom, you're done. Pretty easy right?

Fenske put together a thourough video walking us through how to change the transmission fluid on his personal Honda S2000. It goes into great detail, so if you're getting ready to swap out your own car's fluid, it's a must-watch.

edited by DNT Tools

How to Clamp off Fluid Hoses During Maintenance and Repair

How to repalce inner track rod joint by tie rod tools

How to Change a Car Battery?DNT Tools

Changing your car battery is a simple and easy automotive repair that you can actually accomplish yourself with the right preparation and a little physical strength.
While most people realize that they need a battery when their car refuses to start, it is very important to be aware of the state of your battery before this happens so you can replace it before you are stranded on the side of the road. Here are instructions that explain how to check for a bad battery. To change your car battery follow these instructions:

How to change a car battery

1. Gather the correct materials - Before you get started, you will need the following materials: Gloves, Ratchet with extension (¼ inch), Safety glasses, Sockets (8mm, 10mm, and 13mm), and Water (almost boiling).
2. Make sure the car is in a safe place - Make sure you have your car parked on a flat surface, away from traffic, away from smoking or any other situation that may cause an electrical current to spark and cause a fire. Then, be sure to take off any metal accessories such as rings or earrings.
3. Put the parking brake on and turn off the car - This is one of the most important steps. Be sure that the car is completely off.
   
4. Check to if radio and navigation codes apply - Prior to removing or disconnecting your battery, see if your car requires any radio or navigation codes to be imputed once the new battery is installed. These codes can be found in your owner’s manual, or obtained from your car’s dealership.
   If your vehicle does need these codes, and you don’t have a memory saver to install in the cigarette lighter, then write down the codes. This will ensure your radio and navigation work as they did before the battery was removed.
   
5. Locate the battery - Open the hood and secure with hood prop or struts. The battery should be should be in plain sight and there may be a cover to remove, depending on vehicle.
6. Check the age of your battery - Checking the age of the battery can give you an idea if it is time to replace it. Most batteries need to be changed out every 3-5 years. Therefore if your battery age falls in that age bracket it may be time for a new battery.
   
   Tip: If you do not know the age of your battery, many batteries actually come with date codes to identify the year and month the battery was shipped, giving you a great estimate of the age and condition.
7. Check the car headlights - Consistently having to jumpstart your car is another sign you may need a new battery. Another symptom is dim vehicle lights. To test this, try turning the key to the on position and looking over your dashboard.
   
8. Check the battery for corrosion - Visually inspecting the battery can give you an idea of the state it is in. You can look for corrosion on battery terminals or sulfate build up, a white powder, which would be indicative of a bad connection. Occasionally cleaning the battery terminals can solve the problem of low connection.
   Warning: Please always do so with gloves on to protect your hands from the sulfate powder.
   
9. Check the battery with voltmeter - Some people have access to a device known as a volt meter. If you want to use this to test your battery, make sure the car and lights are off and put the positive meter on the positive terminal and the negative meter on the negative battery terminal.
   Check for a reading of 12.5 volts. If it reads below 11.8, it is a discharged battery.
   
10. Wear protection from sulfate - Make sure you have put on your safety glasses and gloves, this will help keep you away from the sulfate buildup, if there is any. Using the correct size socket with extension and ratchet, remove the bracket that secures the battery to the vehicle, known as a Battery Hold Down.
    You can then use a correct size socket and ratchet to first loosen the negative battery terminal. Use your gloved hand to twist off and remove the terminal after it is loosened as you pull off battery post, set aside, then do the same for positive.
    Tip: If necessary, before removing the battery cables, label each side so you do not mix up positive and negative. Mixing these up can cause a short circuit and possibly damage the entire electrical system.
    
11. Securely remove the battery from the car - Removing the battery is a physical activity and is the most difficult part of the change. Carefully and securely lift and remove the battery from car. Be sure to use proper posture, as even though the battery is small, it is heavy and usually weighs around 40 pounds.
    Tip: Now that your battery is removed, you can take it to your local auto store for proper testing. You can dispose the old battery and obtain a new battery that is the correct one for your car.
    
12. Clean the battery terminals - With the battery out, it is then important to clean off the battery terminals. To do so, use almost boiling water in a cup and pour it directly onto each terminal. This removes any corrosion and any sulfate powder that may not have been removed earlier.
    
13. Install the new battery - Now it is time to install your new battery. Using proper posture, carefully place the battery into the holder. Using the correct sized socket and ratchet, re-install the Battery Hold Down to ensure the battery is secured to vehicle.
14. Secure positive - Take the positive terminal and place it on the battery post, making sure it is secured all the way toward the bottom of the post. This will help avoid future corrosion.
15. Secure negative - Once you have snugged down the battery terminal onto post with ratchet, you can repeat with the negative terminal.
    Tip: Again replace these in order to avoid electrical problems. Replace any battery covers if applicable and close the hood.
16. Turn your key to on but do not start - Get into your vehicle, shut the door, turn key to on position but do not start yet. Wait 60 seconds. Some vehicles have electronic throttle bodies and this 60 seconds will give the vehicle times to re-learn the correct positioning and re-start without any problems.
17. Start the vehicle - After 60 seconds you can start the car. If the car starts up with no problem and you notice all the lights turn on, you have successfully changed your battery!

How to replace car oils by universal oil filter wrench

Replace a rusted or dented pickup bumper yourself

Replace a pickup bumper

We put our truck up on a hoist to replace the bumper, which makes things a bit easier. Don't be afraid to do the job with the truck on the garage floor, though it's a good idea to have a floor jack and stands available just in case you can't reach the upper bolts. An air impact wrench speeds things up, but you can do the job by hand with sockets, a ratchet and a breaker bar. You'll also need spray rust penetrant, screwdrivers and eye protection.

We'll walk you through the steps to replace a chrome step bumper on a 2002 Dodge Ram. It's representative of most pickup truck bumpers, but the number of bolts and their location may be different on your truck.


Step 1: First, assess the damage

Before you order any parts, inspect the condition of the bumper step pad, license plate lights, trailer light socket, and any other accessories that might have been damaged by the impact. Next, get your creeper and take a look behind the bumper. Check the condition of the bumper brackets to see if they're bent or rusted. If so, buy new ones—trust us, you don’t want to try to bend them back into shape.


Step 2: Buy new bumpers

Replacement bumpers are available from retail auto parts stores, truck and trailer hitch upgrade shops, local bumper reconditioning shops, and online retailers (rockauto.com and autoanything.com are two examples). Auto recycling yards are also an option, but we found we could buy a brand new factory-quality bumper with new brackets and bolts for just a few bucks more than a used part from the local yards.

Low-price bumpers are usually economy-grade units. They're barebones products (no brackets or bolts) with minimal chrome plating and a short rust-through warranty (if any). An economy bumper for our Ram truck costs about $170 online, including shipping. Those units are perfectly fine for an old truck that you plan to keep only a short time or just want to get into good enough shape to sell or trade.

However, if you need brackets or want a longer-lasting bumper that matches factory quality, buy a premium version that includes those extra parts. That winds up being cheaper than buying an economy bumper and paying à la carte prices for the brackets. A premium unit for our truck cost $445 including shipping and came with new brackets and bolts and two complete license plate light assemblies.


Step 3: Grease the skids with rust penetrant

Removing the rusted fasteners is the hardest part of a bumper replacement job. To make removal easier, pretreat all the fasteners with spray rust penetrant. Shoot a liberal dose on each nut and bolt a few days before you plan to do the swap, then drive the vehicle to create the vibrations that will make the penetrant work faster. Reapply when you get home so the penetrant can soak overnight. Repeat.

Step 4: Remove the accessories first

Reach behind the bumper and hold each nut as you unscrew the trailer light screws. Place the small parts in a magnetic tray or zipper-top bag so you don't lose them.

If your bumper has a built-in trailer light connector, remove the fasteners that hold it to the bumper. Next, disconnect and remove the trailer light connector and harness . Then remove the license plate bulb sockets.


Step 5: Then remove the bumper bolts and brackets

Remove the license plate to reveal the bolts that hold the bumper to the trailer hitch. Use a socket and ratchet to remove them.

Our bumper was attached to the trailer hitch and bed, bumper brackets and frame brackets. Start by removing the license plate and the bolts behind it. Next, reach behind the bumper and remove the bolts that connect the bumper to the truck bed. The frame brackets can be difficult to remove and can make bumper removal more cumbersome. So it's best to remove the bumper first to give yourself more room to access the frame brackets (if necessary). To do that, remove the bolts that connect the left and right bumper brackets to the frame brackets (Photo 4). Then lift off the entire bumper .


Step 6: Install the new bumper

 Snap in the license plate lights

Slide the license plate light into the new bumper. Then align the legs of the U-shaped spring retainer with the slots on the light. Push the retainer onto the light until it snaps into place.

Place the new bumper on cardboard to prevent scratches, then install the new license plate light assemblies . Then install the new bumper . Reinstall the trailer light connector and harness.

DNT Tools

How to quickly to remove wheel hub bearing

How to replace brake caliper by 18pc brake caliper piston kit

How to remove Fuel Pump？DNT tools

How to Do a Compression Test？

A compression test reveals the condition of your engine's valves, its valve seats, and piston rings and whether these parts are wearing evenly. Healthy engines should have compression over 100 psi per cylinder, with no more than 10 percent variation between the highest and lowest readings. With a compression tester, a few hand tools, and 20 minutes, you can try this yourself.

STEP 1 Remove the fuel pump and fuel-injection fuses. Disconnect the main wire to the coil and spark plug wires; remove spark plugs.

STEP 2 Start the threaded end of the compression gauge in a spark plug hole by hand.

STEP 3 Turn the ignition on, depress the throttle, and crank the engine four revolutions. This should result in a stable reading; if not, crank up to 10 revolutions, but do the same with all cylinders.

STEP 4 Mark the pressure reading for each cylinder on the valve cover in chalk, then move to the next cylinder.

TIP For a cylinder below 100 psi, pour 1 teaspoon of engine oil into the plug hole and retest. If the reading jumps, the piston rings are worn. If not, think valve problems.

pump support tool for injection pump land rover DNT Tools

How to replace belt by engine timing tool VW

How to test Cooling System by Tester？DNT Tools reviewed

How shock absorbers work in car

Even though shock absorbers have been in use since the early days of the automobile, they are not well understood by the general driving public. Even automotive enthusiasts will neglect and often ignore the shock absorbers on their car, degrading the car’s handling performance and ride comfort.

Even worse, worn shocks can be dangerous, especially during the severe maneuvers that might be necessary to avoid an accident. As we will see, for such a simple yet effective device, shock absorbers seem to get little respect.

The gravity of the situation
Strangely enough, despite their name, shock absorbers don’t absorb shocks. In reality, that is the job of the springs in a vehicle’s suspension system. As a wheel encounters a bump, the wheel moves upward, compressing and storing the energy of the bump into the spring. This compression is actually what absorbs the shock of the bump.

But now that the spring is compressed, it contains potential energy that must be released. The spring does this by bouncing back to its original uncompressed length, at the same time pushing the vehicle’s body upward. In an example of the old adage “what goes up, must come down,” gravity pulls the weight of the body back down, recompressing the spring. If the shock absorbers are worn, the vehicle ends up bouncing its way down the road after every bump until all of the energy is used up. In the worst cases, this bouncing can actually pull a vehicle’s tires off the ground, making the vehicle uncontrollable.

Bring on the dampers
Shock absorbers, more properly called dampers, are mounted alongside (or inside) the springs at each corner of the vehicle. A shock absorber’s job is to provide resistance to the movement of the spring. Technically speaking, it does this by taking some of the energy that is being used to compress the spring and turning it into heat. So whether the vehicle is bouncing up or down from a bump in the road, that motion is held in check by the shock absorber, and once again some of the kinetic energy released by the spring is changed into heat by the shock absorber. This conversion of energy keeps the vehicle’s body from bouncing more than once or twice, providing a controlled ride and helping to keep the vehicle’s tires safely in contact with the ground.

How do shock absorbers work?
If you have ever waved your hand back and forth through water, then, in principle, you know how a shock absorber works. The resistance to motion you feel with your hand changes with speed – the faster you move your hand, the more energy it takes to push against the resistance of the water.

A shock absorber works much the same way. Inside the shock absorber there’s a piston that moves inside a tube that is filled with oil. As the piston moves, the oil is forced through tiny holes and valves within the piston, precisely controlling the amount of resistance to movement. This resistance to the motion converts the energy into heat. (Yes, a shock absorber that has been doing its job over a rough road does get warm!)

Although there have been many different designs for shock absorbers over the course of automotive history, today there are four basic types available:

• Twin-tube
• Mono-tube
• Gas-filled mono-tube
• External reservoir

Sometimes these types of shock absorbers are incorporated into a strut-type suspension that uses the shock absorber as part of the spring support, but the basic principles still apply.

Twin-tube shocks
The twin-tube design is the most common and often the least expensive. These are the ordinary shock absorbers that typical passenger cars and trucks use, and they are widely available at car dealerships, auto parts stores and repair facilities. As the name implies, in a twin-tube shock, there are two actual tubes – one the outer shock body and the other an inner cylinder in which the piston moves. Tiny holes or orifices in the piston as well as special valves between the inner and outer tubes restrict the flow of oil to control wheel motion.

The limitations of twin-tube shocks become apparent when they are used over very bumpy roads. In this case, the rapid motion of the piston can cause the oil to overheat and to foam, reducing the shock absorber’s ability to control wheel motion. The result is a ride that becomes increasingly sloppy, especially when traveling over a washboard surface. Heavy-duty twin-tube shock absorbers are usually stronger, with more robust piston shafts and mounting points, and they may use oils that are more resistant to foaming, but ultimately they still have the same limitations.

Mono-tube shocks
The heat generated in the twin-tube shock tends to get trapped within the walls of the shock absorber body, reducing its effectiveness in controlling wheel motions. The mono-tube shock absorber uses a piston traveling within a single tube that is exposed more directly to the air. The general advantages and disadvantages of this design are:

• By getting rid of heat more easily, mono-tube shocks are less susceptible to overheating on rough roads.
• They are more expensive to manufacture, and the tolerances must be higher and the seals better to keep the oil inside the shock body.

Gas-filled mono-tube shocks
To prevent foaming and bubbles in the oil, which degrades shock-absorber performance, a gas-filled mono-tube shock has a chamber of high-pressure nitrogen above the oil chamber. This high-pressure gas makes it difficult for bubbles to form in the oil, even when the shock absorber moves in and out very quickly, as it might while traveling rapidly on a very rough or washboard road.

Gas-filled shocks are expensive, since they require strict manufacturing tolerances, but they are very resistant to fade and consequently are popular in off-road racing and rallying. Gas-filled shocks, by the way, are not the same as “air shocks,” which use an air chamber separate from the shock oil. An air shock is actually an air spring that raises or lowers the vehicle when air is added or removed through a valve.

External reservoir shocks
The top of the line in shock absorbers is the external-reservoir design. These shocks, primarily designed for ultra-high performance and racing applications, use a small, lightweight shock body that is connected through a hose to a reservoir of oil mounted in a different part of the vehicle. The goal of an external reservoir shock is to:

• Reduce the weight at the wheel for better handling
• Provide better cooling for the oil in the reservoir
• Provide significant air space within the reservoir so that the hot oil can expand without blowing out seals
• Allow superb adjustability as the oil flows to and from the shock body

External reservoir shocks are very expensive and are really only needed in extreme high-performance applications.


When to buy shocks
Shock absorbers last a long time, but they tend to degrade slowly throughout their life. So when is it time to replace them?

• In some cases, a seal will rupture. A shock covered in oil is a good indication that it has failed.
• The age-old test of bouncing on a fender is really only a rough guide as to whether your vehicle needs new shocks.
• Usually the slow degradation in your shock absorber’s performance won’t be noticed until it affects handling fairly dramatically.
• Depending on how rough your roads are, modern shocks can last 80,000-100,000 miles, but remember that a shock with 60,000 miles on it won’t perform as well as a new one.

Shocks can be tested on a shock machine, but to do so requires them to be taken off the car. With labor rates what they are, if your mechanic already has the old shocks off, it makes sense to replace them with new ones.

Replacing worn-out shocks can revitalize the handling of a vehicle, returning much of the crispness it had when new. When combined with a new set of tires, new shocks can transform a high-mileage vehicle with sloppy handling and a bouncy ride.

Choosing shock absorbers for your vehicle
Choosing which shocks to buy largely depends upon what kind of vehicle you own and the kind of driving you do.

• Shocks are available in a range of prices. Often you get what you pay for.
• If you liked the way your vehicle rode and handled when it was new, go with original-equipment replacements.
•  If you are looking for more, there are a variety of options open to you, including heavy-duty shocks for carrying heavy loads and performance shocks for crisper handling.

As with most automotive components, it is important that you buy the right shocks for your specific vehicle, since mismatched shocks can drastically affect handling and could even be dangerous. The best advice will probably come from a mechanic who is familiar with your type of car. It goes without saying that if you make the right choice, the improvements in your vehicle’s ride and handling can be shocking!

Timing tool set suitable for OPEL 1 0 1 2 1 4 petrol engines

How to use engine timing tool for Renault?DNT Tools reviewed

how to remove the bad Nuts by nut splitter

What Does It Mean When Your Spark Plug Wells Are Filled with Oil?

I recently pulled out the spark plug wire and found there is engine oil in the plug well. This problem has me worried and I need advice. Is it a big problem I should get fixed right away?
Answer: Repair Oil Leaks Into the Spark Plug Wells As Soon As Possible

There is an O-ring that seals the spark plug well and keeps oil from leaking into it. As with any valve cover gasket, it will start to leak over time. Sometimes tightening the valve cover bolts will stop the leakage, but more often than not the valve cover gasket, and well seals, will need to be replaced.

The seals will come with the valve cover gasket set. I would get it fixed as soon as possible. The oil will cause the spark plug boot to swell and lead to a misfire. This will certainly hurt engine performance as well as a possible engine fire.

engine Timing Tool for VW Passat

Engine Timing Tool For PSA And BMW Mini DNT Tools

How to replace windshield wiper？DNT Tools

How to remove and install wheel bearing by Wheel bearing replacement tool ？

10 WAYS TO KEEP YOUR CAR RUNNING AND LOOKING BEAUTIFUL

Whether you bought it new or willingly took it off of Pop-pop's hands, your automobile deserves TLC. If your vehicle looks and runs bad, you look bad. To ensure your car (and you) remain looking and running cool, we spoke with Valvoline Senior Scientist Erin Findley to help with 10 essential maintenance tips.

1. Change your oil regularly -- and use the right oil
“Engines are smaller today, but they’re doing more, so oil is expected to handle those higher demands,” says Findley. What’s that mean in real talk? Though engines are more powerful and efficient, changing your oil is as vital as ever if you want to extend the life of your car. So how often, and when should you do it? To find out…

2. Read the damn manual
“Most of the time when people say they know better (about choosing a particular grade of motor oil), they don’t,” says Findley. “Manufacturers have spent millions on knowing what type of oil is the best for a particular car. By choosing the wrong one, you could increase wear and lose fuel economy.” Pay attention, Findley says, to the definition of “severe driving” in your particular model’s manual. “Most people think they’re ‘normal drivers’ and follow what they perceive as normal guidelines, but they don't read the manual.  If you look at what the definition of "severe driving" is, most people fall into that category which consists of lots of short trips in stop and go traffic, or living in dusty, hot, or cold conditions.”

3. Change your wiper blades
Would you go on a date with your specs covered in grease from your sweaty mitts? No? Then you shouldn’t drive around town with a windshield that’s slowly taken on a layer of grime, thanks to deteriorating rubber blades. Most experts recommend swapping your old wiper blades out for new ones every six months. The cost (between $10 and $25) is worth it -- for a clearer, prettier Instagram-worthy sunset view -- but only from the passenger seat, of course.

4. Inspect your tires regularly
Yeah, we are about to get all fatherly up in here. Like Dad always said: bald, worn out tires provide less control on the road, and worse braking. Turn to a founding father -- Abe Lincoln -- to see if yours need replacing. Grab a penny and put it Lincoln-head down in one of the tread grooves, if part of Honest Abe’s head is always covered by rubber, you likely don’t need need to replace your tires. If you can see all of Abe, it’s probably time for a fresh set.

5. Maintain your brakes
It shouldn’t need to be said, but never neglect the warning signs that your brakes need care. Even if you don’t see a brake warning light, hearing squeaking, squealing, or other odd noises coming from your brakes might mean that your pads or rotors need to be replaced. Don’t just turn up your music to try to drown out the sound -- deal with it!

6. Change your air filters annually
Before the magic of internal combustion begins, an air filter prevents dust and debris from getting into your engine, where oxygen and fuel meet to make sweet, sweet love. Like a bouncer outside of the backstage. But when it’s clogged, an air filter can’t do its job properly, and your car’s ability to accelerate can be cut by as much as eleven percent. That’s why it’s vital to change yours at an annual interval, or earlier, if your manufacturer recommends it.

7. Use the right fuel
If your car's owner's manual doesnt call for premium fuel, don't use it -- higher octane fuel doesn't provide higher performance for engines that don't need it. Again, read the manual to find out what your car requires. But that doesn’t mean you should buy the most bargain-basement gas you can find from some off-brand station you've never heard of. “When you’re using the cheapest gas in town, you could be getting what you pay for,” says Findley.

8. Watch your coolant
Coolant absorbs the heat of the engine and disperses it. Seriously, you should have it flushed once a year with a mix that’s fifty percent coolant, fifty percent distilled water to ensure endless chill for your ride.

9. Maintain your battery
The phrase “Looking good, feeling good” doesn’t just apply to your gym routine -- it applies to your car battery too. Dirt and oil can drain your battery’s current and shorten its life, so treat it to a shammy. Check the terminals for corrosion and apply a mixture of baking soda and water if they’re crusty.

10. Don’t use dish soap to wash your car 
You don’t use dishwashing soap to wash your princely mane in the shower and you shouldn’t use it to wash your car, either. Dish soap’s abrasive nature wears down the finish of your car and can lead to a dull sheen and oxidized paint. Most car soaps are pH balanced and can give your ride the sweet caress it deserves.

How to remove harmonic balancer?DNT Tools

How to reset brake caliper by Brake piston wind back tool

How to change brake pads?

Replacing brake pads on disc brakes is far easier than the job used to be on drum brakes. However, it’s always good to know what you’re doing beforehand. Read the instructions fully before you get started.

Tools and materials:

• Replacement brake pads and any hardware that comes with them
• Jack and jack stands
• Lug nut tire tool
• Socket set with ratchet (open-end wrenches also work)
• Stout, straight-edged screwdriver
• Hammer and punch
• Pliers
• Pry bar (tire tools also work)
• Wire brush
• Aerosol brake cleaner
• Brake fluid (just in case)
• Thread-locking compound
• Five-gallon pail or other waterproof container of similar size
• Rags to catch fluid spills under master cylinder
• Inexpensive turkey baster

Types of disc brake systems

Unfortunately, all disc brake systems are not the same. But they are similar enough that we can generalize quite a bit here. The two main types are fixed calipers and moving calipers ("floating" or "sliding"). Fixed calipers are the easiest, as you do not have to remove the caliper to get to the pads. After disconnecting any electrical wear sensors, remove a small pin or spring clip and pull out the pads with a pair of pliers. Some of these systems have the pads secured by a pin that must be driven out with a hammer and punch; most systems are no longer of this simpler type. With moving calipers, the caliper is either removed or flipped up, rotating on the top pin, which is left in place.

How-to tips

If the brake fluid was topped off when the pads were worn, there may be too much fluid in the system to support the new, thicker pads. Leaks can occur under the hood. Some fluid can be drained from the reservoir with a vacuum pump or simply with a turkey baster. Or you can use rags under the master cylinder to catch minor spills. Loosen the reservoir's cap and proceed to the first wheel.

Whether you are servicing the front or rear of the vehicle, you should do both sides, never just one. But do them from start to finish – one at a time. The first reason for doing one at a time is so you can more effectively monitor the fluid level as you work. You’ll find out the second reason soon. Make sure to secure the vehicle in position and remove the lug nuts (both wheels). After the vehicle is jacked up and stable on the jack stands, finish loosening the lug nuts and remove the first rim. Now you can really get started. For vehicle-specific brake pad replacement procedures, always consult a service manual.

The general procedures for most systems are as follows:

1. Disconnect any electrical wear sensors.

2. Using a socket wrench, remove the two long guide pins ("slider bolts"), usually accessed on the back of the caliper. On front wheels, they are easier to see if you turn the steering wheel toward the other side of the vehicle. To loosen the caliper, you may need to pry it slightly with a sturdy screwdriver. Again, with some systems, you may be able to remove only the bottom pin and flip the caliper up over the top pin. But whether you flip it up or remove the caliper, take care not to stress the brake hose. If removing the caliper, use the five-gallon pail, inverted, to support the weight of the caliper.

3. The pads are now exposed. If present, remove any clips, anti-rattle springs and anti-squeal shims. Some pads have tabs that are bent over. You may need to straighten them with pliers before removal. And now the second reason for doing the brakes one side at a time: You have the other side to refer to if you lose track of where any of the hardware came from.

4. Remove the old pads with pliers or a light hammer tap.

5. Dust the caliper sliding area with a wire brush and spray brake cleaner. Note: Never use high-pressure, compressed air on brake dust, as it contains asbestos and should not be inhaled.

6. Lightly lubricate the same area with heat-resistant brake grease. Be careful with the lubricant, not allowing any of it to come into contact with the swept area of the rotor, or getting any on the new brake pads.

7. If your system is equipped with hardware such as clips, they should be included with your new pads, especially if you get Original Equipment Manufacturer (OEM) parts. There may also be a packet of grease.

8. With the old pads out, the internal pistons are exposed. They need to be retracted back into the caliper. Your vehicle may have two pistons. If so, be sure to compress them both at the same time. Pressing one could pop the other all the way out, which is a bad thing. Reposition one old pad back into place and tighten the large C-clamp on it to retract the pistons. You can also use a piece of two-by-four and a pry bar to push them back. Or, if you only have one piston, just use a pry bar with a rag around the end. The piston(s) need to be fully retracted to fit over the rotor, but take care not to damage their rubber seals.

9. Compression of the piston into its bore forces fluid back into the master cylinder's reservoir. This is when leakage may occur if too much is in the system for the new, thicker pads. Check the reservoir, particularly after you finish the first wheel. You should be able to tell if the second wheel is likely to force too much fluid into the reservoir, so you can remove some fluid ahead of time.

10. Insert the new pads, replacing any hardware you removed with new parts, if available. If yours are the bent-tab style of pads, you have to ensure a snug fit. If it is not snug, adjust the tab lightly with a hammer until you have a tight fit.

11. Reposition the caliper over the rotor and secure it with the long guide pins. Use a thread-locking compound on the pins' threaded area to ensure a secure fit.

12. Reconnect any electrical wear sensors. Now refer back to step one on this list to start work on the second wheel. Once the second wheel also has new pads, please proceed to step 13.

13. When finished, pump the brake pedal several times to seat the new pads. The brakes won't stop the vehicle until the pads are properly seated. Recheck the reservoir for proper fluid level and adjust.

14. Install wheels and tighten the lug nuts to just snug.

15. Lower the vehicle and fully tighten the lug nuts. Note: You must use a torque wrench to properly tighten your lug nuts. The ft-lbs specification necessary for your vehicle will be located in the owner’s manual.

16. It’s time for a road test. Remember, don’t forget to seat your new pads or to properly tighten lug nuts before driving off.

How to use Universal Timing Belt Tension Gauge?DNT Tools

How to use Camshaft belt puller A4&A6？DNT Tools reviewed

where is the trim removal tool used?DNT Tools

Different types of oil filters and how they work

Oil is the lifeblood of the engine in your car or truck (or motorcycle, boat, airplane, tractor and so on). Plain and simple. But as the oil circulates through the engine, it picks up any number of contaminants (in simple terms, dirt). That dirt can obviously damage your engine. And over time, that dirt can bring the engine to its death.

How do oil filters work?
Early internal combustion engines did not use oil filters and, coupled with the poor quality of oil available at the time, vehicles required frequent oil changes. Eventually, the first full-flow oil filtration system was developed. Basically, this arrangement allowed for the oil to flow through the filter before it reached the critical working components inside the engine.

So far so good, but there was (and still is) a big caveat: The vast majority of pressurized lubrication systems found in internal combustion engines incorporate some form of filter by-pass to protect the engine from starvation under certain circumstances. A good example is very cold weather. In this situation, if the oil is too thick, it is allowed to bypass the filter. Oil can also bypass the filter when the filter is plugged. Because of these events, oil is sometimes not filtered, even when the engine is fitted with a full-flow oil filter.

In operation, oil enters the oil filter through a series of small holes on the outer edge of the base flange. The oil is then directed through the filter, eventually making an exit into the engine through the large center hole. Most modern oil filters are equipped with an anti-drain back valve. This is often some form of rubber membrane that covers the perimeter holes in the base flange. The membrane is forced aside as oil enters the filter case. When the engine is not running, the rubber membrane covers the holes. Obviously, the anti-drain back valves maintain oil within the filter. In turn, they prevent engine dry starts (when the engine is started with no oil).

Early oil filter designs
Early oil filter designs were based on a replaceable element fitted inside a metal housing. When changing the filter, one removed the housing, discarded the element, cleaned the housing, added a new filter and re-installed the assembly to the engine. By the mid-20th century, spin-on filters gained popularity. Here, the filter element and the cartridge are self-contained. You simply remove the works, discard it, and screw on a new filter during the oil-change process. Today, there's been a move back to the earlier oil filter design. In this system, oil is filtered through an element contained within a separate housing, because the replaceable filter element may be more environmentally conscious than a spin-on filter. Keep in mind that today's motor vehicles require far fewer oil changes than those of yesteryear.

Today’s oil filter types
There are many types of oil filters available today, and there are likely an equally large number of tests in which various filters are cut apart and diagnosed. The truth is, all oil filters are not created equal. The bottom line: You usually get what you pay for.

But are there any real differences between standard filters, high-performance filters, race filters and synthetic filters? Absolutely.

You have to first consider the mission of the motor vehicle. Case-in-point is a racecar. Here is something that will seldom, if ever, experience cold starts (in many cases, the oil is warmed prior to starting). Oil is changed frequently, simply because the engines are inspected and regularly disassembled. Oil in racecar engines was once far thicker than that found in passenger cars, but today it's just the opposite. Racers have discovered the benefits of light oil.

Without going into detail, it's not uncommon to find race engines filled with oil as light as zero grade. Racing filters are engineered to work with those oils. Some race filters are not fitted with drain back valves.

On the other hand, many racing oil filters are engineered with an internal media that is resistant to high temperatures and water levels in the oil that can plug standard oil filter media types. Many racing oil filters are engineered to provide high levels of oil flow with low restriction. Certain racing oil filters engineered for use in endurance applications (for example, 12- or 24-hour races) contain a different media that is designed to trap smaller contaminants.

Some race or high-performance filters are built with more robust cases to protect against damage from track debris. Heavier base plates are also incorporated in some of these filters. This ensures that the filter body does not flex under high-pressure conditions. Some are constructed so they can be safety-wired to prevent accidental loosening. A few of the high-performance filters also incorporate rolled threads instead of cut threads to ensure the filter doesn't strip during installation.

Paper or plastic?
Filter media is another difference. Some filters are engineered with synthetic filter media (rather than pleated paper-based media). The synthetic media is said to be capable of trapping small contaminants over a longer period of time (higher miles). Additionally, some synthetic filters include special blends of rubber for gaskets and drain back valves. The purpose? Like the filter media, they're designed to last longer. Finally, some synthetic filters actually have larger (typically longer) bodies than conventional filters, which means they have more capacity. Because of these factors, some synthetic oil filters have service lives of anywhere from 7,000 to 25,000 miles.

As you can see, there are plenty of variables found inside oil filters. So what's right for your car, truck, motorcycle or other vehicle fitted with an internal combustion engine? The answer is, it depends. You really need to carefully study the specifications of each filter to determine the suitability for your particular application. If your vehicle is newer, you should also give some serious consideration to the warranty. Some filters may not be deemed compatible by the vehicle manufacturer, and that's important when it comes to a warranty claim.

The reality is, you might want to think twice before using high-grade synthetic oil and a top-of-the heap high-performance oil filter in a thrashed beater. And, similarly, it doesn't make much sense to use the cheapest oil and filter possible in a collectable Ferrari. In the end, selecting a filter is much like selecting oil. Pick the one that best fits the application and your budget.

The filtered facts

• The car oil filter required for the vintage six-cylinder Buick is far different from the one found on the 7,000 (or more) horsepower Top Fuel dragster. In both cases, the mission is the same: Keep the oil clean.
• Filters are not created equal. The intended application for a given oil filter has a big impact on the design and engineering of the component. Internally, a racecar’s oil filter is far different from a passenger car’s filter.
• In a typical passenger car engine, oil enters the filter at the filter pad, most often part of the engine block. From here, it circulates through the series of smaller holes in the outer perimeter of the filter. At this point, oil is forced through the filter element (from the outside, in) and eventually is forced toward the center of the filter (going back into the engine through the large threaded hole below the pointer).
• When a filter does its job, internal engine components – such as the connecting rods, camshaft and valve train – are protected from contaminants that can cause major damage. These components are expensive. Picking the right oil along with the right filter can definitely promote long engine life.

How to remove shaft and bearing gearbox? DNT Tools

How to set timing for BMW M52？DNT Tools

How to replace shock absorber Mercedes？DNT Tools reviewed

Rear Drum Brakes and Replacing Them

If you know you need to replace one of your drum brake cylinders, we hope you're considering doing it yourself. Don't be intimidated by the job. Sure, brakes are super important, but it's also easy to know whether you've done the job right. Proper and thorough testing after a brake repair is essential to your safety. But once you've tested the system, chances are you did the repair correctly and your vehicle is safe. Besides, brake work isn't that hard to do!



Remove the Brake Drum to Access the Wheel Cylinder


Before you can even see the brake cylinder, you'll need to remove the brake drum. It comes off fairly easily with one bolt in the center holding it on. Be sure your emergency brake is NOT pulled up for this job (but use some wheel chocks to keep your car from shifting while you have it on the jack stands safely). For more specific information on removing the brake drum, check out this page which shows how to remove the drum.



Accessing the Brake Cylinder
With the brake drum off, you will be able to see the brake shoes and the wheel cylinder that requires replacement. Unfortunately the brake cylinder (also called the wheel cylinder) is guarded closely by two brake shoes and a cluster of springs. This mass can be very intimidating. The good news is on most cars this cluster of shoes and springs can be removed as a single unit without taking it completely apart.


There are two pins that hold the brake shoes onto the backing plate. These are spring loaded from the front, so the best way to remove them is to push them in from the front, and then reach around to the back and give them a twist. Twist each pin a quarter turn and that cluster of brake shoes and springs is almost out. The brake cylinder at the top is the last thing attaching the shoes assembly to the backing plate. Using a large spreader, or two screwdrivers, pry the top of the shoes assembly apart enough to clear the wheel cylinder ends, and you'll be able to see the wheel cylinder clearly. If you were lucky enough to keep the brake shoes assembly in one piece, set it aside for reinstallation later.



Disconnect the Brake Line


Before you start to remove the bolts on the back of the wheel cylinder, you've got to disconnect the brake line. The brake line is threaded into the back of the wheel cylinder through the large backing plate. To remove it, find the correctly sized line wrench to loosen then unscrew it. I strongly recommend using a line wrench to avoid stripping the hex on the brake line. Once this is ruined the whole line must be replaced.


A regular open end wrench doesn't have enough surface area on the hex head to remove a stubborn brake line.



Removing the Old Wheel Cylinder
With the brake line removed you're finally read to remove the wheel cylinder. It will be held in place by one or two bolts through the back of the brake backing plate. Many original steel or iron wheel cylinders are held in place by two bolts, but the replacement part may be held in by a single bolt. This is normal, and if your new wheel cylinder has only one bolt, there should be a note in the box telling you it's normal.

Remove the bolts on the back of the wheel cylinder, then pull the old one off.




You might hae to give it some light taps with a hammer because that thing's probably been there a long time.

As they say in car repair, installation is the reverse of removal, so get to it. And don't forget to bleed the brakes when you're done!

Engine timing tool set - Mercedes M271

How to work of Pneumatic brake caliper piston tools

How to remove CV joint quickly?

How to Perform a Wheel Alignment？DNT Tools

Safety Tip: Always wear safety glasses when working on your vehicle. Wear other personal protective equipment (PPE) when necessary, for example latex gloves or closed toe shoes.

1.Road test vehicle on flat surface.
2.Drive vehicle onto the alignment rack. Inspect front suspension components for any excessive wear. Repair as needed.
3.Enter vehicle's information into alignment machine to obtain manufacturer's alignment specifications.
4.Install alignment heads on vehicle's wheels.
5.Center and level heads on wheels.
6.Adjust vehicle's alignment.
7.Road test vehicle, assure vehicle drives straight and steering wheel is centered.

How to remove bush （VW POLO）?DNT Tools

How to use gear puller?DNT Tools reviewed

How to replace camshaft belt on Audi A4 3.0L?DNT Tools reviewed

how to change differential fluid?6 steps

It’s time to face facts. Every once in a while your rear end needs a little help. Whether you drive a rear-, front-, or all-wheel-drive vehicle, the wheels spin by way of a differential. The gears inside the differential distribute engine energy to the axles, and the axles spin the wheels the right way at the right speed when you hit the gas.

Another important function of the differential is to allow the drive wheels to spin at different rates as you round a corner. The inside wheel spins slower than the outside wheel because it travels a shorter distance around the bend. From this difference, the differential gets its name. The gears inside the differential slide around coated in a slippery film of oil. Just like engine oil, the differential fluid must be changed at regular intervals. Not quite as often, but at regular intervals nonetheless. Without the lubricating properties of this high-pressure gear oil, friction will quickly wear through the special layer of hardened steel on the gear teeth, and the gears can fail prematurely.

When to change differential oil
While an excellent time to change gear fluid is when the differential has to be drained for axle service and the like, it’s always best to consult your owner’s or service manual for proper intervals. Not just any oil can stand up to the extreme pressures dished out by the constant lashing of the differential gears. The oil must be able to withstand the shocks and loads created by the transfer of engine horsepower and torque to the wheels. Right up until commercial whaling was largely outlawed in the 1970s, a major component of this high-pressure lubricant came from sperm whales. These compounds have since been replaced with more modern manufactured equivalents.

Choosing the right differential oil
The first consideration is proper weight, or viscosity. The next is the GL rating. Without getting into a lecture on lubrication, the best path to take is to use only what is specified for your differential. If the manual calls for a GL-5 rated 90W gear fluid, then that is the only way to go. Second-guessing the engineers that designed the differential and filling up the case with the wrong gear oil can ultimately add up to an expensive guess.

Another important consideration when it comes to differential fluid is the requirements of the limited slip, or traction-sensing differential. In a normal or “open” differential, the torque, or twist, created by the driveline is always applied to both wheels, regardless of whether one of those wheels happens to be spinning helplessly on an icy surface. A limited slip differential (LSD) will sense this loss of energy and redirect torque to the wheel that has the most traction.

While there are various types of mechanisms used to accomplish this miracle of redirected traction, most of them require friction modifiers unique to their own design to work correctly. An LSD without these special lubricants will at best not work correctly, and at worst fail outright, ending up costing a bundle to rebuild and repair. If your vehicle has an LSD, always be sure to use gear oil that contains the correct friction modifiers for that particular LSD.

Changing the differential oil
A final note is that all differential fluids possess a particular odor that may or may not appeal to your senses. Sulfur compounds used in extreme pressure lubricants smell either like rotten eggs or worse depending on additive concentration. A good call is to wear clothes you can throw away and not get any gear oil anywhere you don’t want to smell it for a while. This applies in particular to the interior of the vehicle. If for some odd reason you like the smell of rotten eggs, you’ll absolutely love the smell of gear oil. If not, then take the proper precautions to avoid the lingering reminder of a gear oil change.

Step-by-step guide to changing differential oil
Step 1: Secure the vehicle on jack stands or ramps. Locate the differential drain bolt. Loosen and remove.


Step 2: Allow time for the gear oil to completely drain. Replace the drain bolt. Wipe any excess gear oil from the case.

Step 3: Locate and remove the gear oil fill bolt.

Step 4: Use a pump to slowly add the recommended type of gear oil to the differential.

Step 5: Add the recommended amount of gear oil to the differential, or until gear oil starts to dribble out of the fill hole.

Step 6: Reinstall and tighten the fill hole bolt. Wipe off any excess gear oil from the case.

How to rebulid brake calipers quickly?DNT Tools

How to adjust BMW front chamber?DNT Tools

How to Remove an Upper Ball Joint on Trucks？DNT Tools

how to replace truck upper or lower ball joint

how to replace front brake pads and brake discs

Crankshaft pulley removal and replacement

The term "pattern failure" literally means a failure along a pattern, which is a similar and repeatable failure both in time and nature. Many of the typical auto parts failures discussed in car-care articles are of a design-specific nature; that is, certain part designs tend to fail along a pattern, irrespective of vehicle make and model.

Pattern failure explained
All air filters, regardless of vehicle make and model, will eventually get clogged with dirt and need replacement at more or less specific intervals. All vulcanized rubber engine mounts will eventually compress to the point of failure, due to the constant forces being exerted on them, again at a similar approximate time.

What I'm attempting to do with this series is to show parts pattern failures that I'm personally familiar with and seem to follow along make- and model-specific lines. This approach is solely for your own information, and it is not intended as a critique of any particular auto manufacturer.

In this installment, we'll focus on the frequent failure of crankshaft pulleys – also known as the crankshaft vibration damper – on mid-'90s, Ford-built, four-cylinder engines, such as the older 1.9-liter found in the Escort model. I have also seen similar failures on other Ford engines but, interestingly enough, seldom on the company's V-8 designs.

Two-piece pulley
Many manufacturers use a crankshaft pulley with a two-piece design, consisting of the central "hub," an outer "drive ring," and a high-density rubber composite "absorption layer" sandwiched in between. Variations of this design have been in use for decades with great reliability. It's not uncommon to see original equipment pulleys still in service on '60s-era vehicles.

The nature of the failure of the pulley design considered in this article has to do with a loss of adhesion between the rubber absorption layer and the outer ring, hub or both. In other words, the outer ring, which turns the belt driving the engine's accessory pulleys, slips in relation to the inner ring.

This slippage can sometimes result in a misalignment between the two, which will cause crankshaft pulley wobble, when the pulley visibly "wobbles" with the engine running. It can also cause a constant slip, while the pulley appears to be turning straight and true.

As you can probably imagine, all sorts of trouble would result under such a condition, from low charging system output to poor and inconsistent power steering assist and air-conditioning operation, as well as higher cooling system operating temperatures and operating noise.

I have actually seen such pronounced slippage that, after crankshaft pulley removal, I could induce it while holding the pulley in my hands. That's even more amazing when you consider that the unit was still turning concentrically while mounted on the engine!

Simple replacement
At any rate, replacement of the pulley on this model is a fairly straightforward part of car maintenance, requiring no special tools – although a half-inch drive impact gun is helpful for removal of the crankshaft pulley bolt, and a proper torque wrench is helpful for correctly securing it.

Follow the procedure outlined in the service manual when removing the crankshaft pulley, observing all safety precautions, especially relating to raising and supporting the front of the car. With the right front wheel and splash shield removed, you can see how accessible the pulley is.

This is not uncommon for all makes, especially where early failure of the original part is involved. So it seems that car companies do learn from their mistakes – or at least their pattern failures.

How to change oils by oil filter pliers

how to change automotive oils by chain oil filter wrench

how to change automotive oils by chain oil filter wrench

how to use Chrysler harmonic puller

How to Replace a clutch on your manual transmission

Replacing a manual transmission’s clutch is not for the faint of heart. Yet for experienced mechanics, professionals or seasoned shade tree types, DIY clutch replacement is a good way to save money as long as you're up to the challenge of the variables your vehicle can throw at you. The following should give you a good idea of the difficulties and obstacles involved.

Considering DIY clutch replacement

For the average auto owner, farming out major repairs is usually wise. Sure, saving on labor charges can be enticing, but hidden costs often undermine good intentions. (As a worst-case scenario, one emergency room trip can make any at-home auto repair extremely non-worthwhile.) Besides, most shops offer some kind of warranty on their work, so the car owner has some recourse should the repair fail within a specified length of time. (Parts warranties can be denied if the manufacturer deems that they were improperly installed by a do-it-yourselfer.)



Circumstances sometimes prompt the hardcore do-it-yourselfer to rise to the challenge of a major car repair. The intent here is to provide an overview of the tools and tricks necessary to replace a clutch in your garage or driveway. Armed with this insight, you can decide whether or not biting off this job will be more than you can chew.



Clutch case history
The demonstration vehicle is a 4WD Isuzu Trooper. It offers a variety of variables not found on all vehicles: two shift levers, the added weight and bulk of a transfer case, a front driveshaft, an exhaust crossover pipe, hydraulic clutch linkage system, undercarriage skid plates, higher-than-average-cost replacement parts and tight access to many bolts (on account of the aforementioned components). The labor quote on a vehicle of this stature can be as much as twice the cost of the parts (which themselves are surprisingly higher than the typical million-selling car). On the plus side, this body-lifted Trooper has oversized tires that create enough clearance under the vehicle to access the necessary parts without having to raise the truck and put it on jack stands. So we simply blocked the tires.



To reiterate, this isn't necessarily a step-by-step how-to on clutch replacement. Instead, it's an overview of some of the challenges to expect if you're considering doing this at home. The clutch job shown here took two weekend mechanics armed with air tools working from 9 a.m.-6 p.m. (including a lunch break) to get the flywheel resurfaced. The bottom line: What's your time worth and are you willing to redo/troubleshoot your work should something not function afterward?

Clutch installation tips

• Park the vehicle on a level surface.
• Disconnect the negative battery cable.
• If necessary, raise the vehicle and secure it on jack stands to allow enough room to work. Using two floor jacks provides an extra margin of safety.
• Read the clutch kit's instructions and refer to a service manual before beginning.
• A come-along or hand winch can be helpful when rolling the transmission/crossmember away from the engine on a floor jack.
• Accumulate socket extensions of varying lengths as well as socket "wobble" joints.
• Just as brake rotors and drums should be "turned" when replacing pads and shoes, always resurface the flywheel as part of a clutch job. Replace a too-worn flywheel if necessary. Clean any grease off the flywheel before installing the new clutch.
• Once it's removed, inspect the old clutch for signs of other problems. (Oil on the clutch indicates a seal problem on the engine and/or transmission.)
• Indicators of engine/transmission misalignment: uneven wear on the pilot bushing/throwout bearing, clutch surface itself or clutch disc splines, broken clutch retainer plate or springs and uneven wear on a transmission input shaft bearing.
• Common causes of engine/transmission misalignment: broken engine or transmission mounts, warped bellhousing, loose flywheel and damaged bellhousing dowel pins.

If this primer on clutch replacement hasn't overwhelmed you, and you've got the time and the tools, then it’s time to get started. Tackling a clutch job doesn't have to be all hard work.

How to use 12pc pulley puller and installer kit?DNT Tools

How to Replace Struts on Your Car or Truck? DNT Tools

Do you need new struts? If your ride has gotten a little bouncy, or your car is bottoming out with a nice thump over speed bumps or potholes, it may be time for a strut replacement. Most cars have struts in the front, but many cars these days have rear struts, too. It's easy to install new struts, and you can save a ton of money by doing it yourself. If you're not sure what's causing your suspension issues, it's time to do some serious suspension troubleshooting to get to the root of the problem before you pull out your wallet and decide to get greasy.

Before you even pick up a wrench, do a quick comparison to be sure you bought the right part. If what you bought at the parts store doesn't match the strut on your car or truck, you'll be glad you still have a working car to drive back to the parts store to get your new struts!

Be sure your car is securely supported by jackstands, and then remove the wheel. Never work on a car supported only by a jack!

The first real step toward strut replacement is to remove the brake line support, if your car has one. Not all cars will have the brake line supported on the strut assembly. This is an easy one to get off usually. Sometimes it's even just a rubber grommet.

The strut is held on at the bottom by a pinch bolt. This might be a bit of a pain in the neck to get loose, but use a breaker bar if you need a little extra pull on it. Or better yet, get yourself some air tools!

The next step in strut replacement involves dropping the sway bar. You need to do this in order to expose the bar link that connects the sway bar to the strut. It's really just another support for the sway bar, but it connects to the strut so it's gotta come off.

Isn't strut replacement getting fun? It gets a little cleaner at this step at least.

Before you loosen the bolts at the top of the strut housing, you need to put a jack under your brake disc or drum and relieve a little of the pressure on the strut. Don't jack it way up, just enough to support a lot of the strut's (not the whole car's) weight.

The interior bolts will usually be accessible through the trunk.

Sometimes you have to remove some access panels to get to them, but if you take a look at where the top of the strut attaches to the car while you're on the outside, you'll be able to figure out where to get to the bolts on the inside. Remove all of them.

Remove the link that joins the strut and the sway bar, and replace it with the new one. Add a little grease to the joints to keep things lubed. Replacing this link can help you avoid an expensive repair later when the link breaks on its own.

Reinstall the mounting and attachment points in the same manner they were removed. Tighten them to spec and you are ready for some smooth driving! And you saved big money!

How to use Diesel Injector Seat Cutter Set？

How to use Diesel Injector Seat Cutter Set？

How to remove steering wheel by harmonic balancer puller

How to remove wheel studs by ball joint separator

pitman arm puller 27mm to remove tie rod ?

how to remove Rotor by 3 jaws gear puller?DNT Tools

How to replace and install auto carpet？DNT Tools

Just as the carpet in a house gets worn out right in front of the door, the carpet in your car usually gets worn out first on the driver's side. Everything stuck to your feet becomes unstuck and embedded in the carpet. Those same feet eventually wear away the plush fibers, leaving only a threadbare version of a once luxurious carpet. Worse is that everything falling from your or your passenger's hands lands on the carpet, if it doesn't first stain shirts or pants or expensive upholstery. That juicy burger with extra mayo and mustard may not have been such a good idea after all. Drops of catsup, bits of fries, tablespoons or gallon cups of soda – whatever kids can spill.

And don't forget dogs. It all adds up. Winter or heavy rains can also bring moisture into the carpet by way of leaks, adding fuel to the fire, so to speak. If things get to the point where no amount of stinky trees hanging from the mirror or under-seat olfactory cover-ups can mask the unmistakable odor of old carpet, then it may be time for an all-out replacement.


Be prepared

The first step in replacing an auto carpet is finding a replacement. Unlike the carpet on the living room floor, the carpet in a car or truck has to navigate over hills and valleys. The automotive floor is anything but flat. The transmission hump, seat mounts, up onto the firewall – an auto carpet has to be molded to shape. Fortunately there are a few companies that make replacement auto carpets. Easy, right?

Not so fast. While replacing the carpet in a car may seem like a relatively simple task, one must be prepared for a load of work. First, everything on top of the carpet must be removed. Seats. Center consoles. Seat belt anchors. Sill plates. Kick plates. Side panels. Rear seats. Electrical connectors. The list goes on and on. After that's all done, pulling the carpet may present even more work. If any rust or corrosion is found on the floor pan it must be repaired, or at the very least stopped with a rustproof paint. Rust never sleeps. Prepping the floor pan may also involve removing crusty old jute padding and whatever other buried treasure that managed to survive under the carpet. Do not remove any tar-based goop from the floor pan unless you're heading out to the racetrack and you enjoy toasty interior temperatures along with lots of noise. These materials are designed to absorb both sound and heat, and they should be left alone. Mark any disconnected electrical connectors with tape or tags.

The job

Here’s a step-by-step look at how to replace the car carpet.



Step 1: Park the vehicle in a spot that allows full opening of all doors. Set the parking brake. Remove the sill plates.



Step 2: Remove the bolts that hold down the seats, seat belts and anything else on top of the auto carpet.



Step 3: Screws and fasteners may be hiding. Find and remove them first before attempting to pull out things that are still bolted down.



Step 4: Yar, buried treasure! One never knows what might be found. Forty-two cents was better than nothing.



Step 5: With everything on top of the carpet removed, remove the carpet.

Be careful

Once the carpet is removed, careful and well thought out measuring will have to be done before making the first cut and installing the replacement. This will of course vary with the complexity of the interior. Aftermarket model-specific replacement carpets do not usually come with all the holes and cutouts in them required to put the seats, center consoles, stick shift boots and so on back into place. A good method is to attempt to fit the replacement carpet before making the first cut or mark. Mistakes occasionally happen, but no one is going to accept a carpet return once the first cut has been made.

Careful measuring of the floor pan and original auto carpet and marking the replacement with some chalk is the path to take before making the first cut. Measure it twice, cut it once. Do not use a power drill to put holes in carpet. Two things can happen, neither one of them good. Either the threads will quickly wrap around the bit and the carpet thread will unravel like a wool thread from your grandma's sweater, or the bit will grab the carpet, wrap around the drill, and attempt to take your arm with it. It is most certainly the case that obstacles particular to your vehicle and not mentioned here will attempt to block the path to springtime fresh and luxurious carpet. Replacing an automotive carpet is not an easy job, but with methodical patience it can be done.


Step 6: In this case, the floor pan was in good shape. No rust.



Step 7: Vacuum the floor pan to remove any lingering memories.



Step 8: Use the original auto carpet and floor pan measurements to measure, mark and then cut the new carpet. Better to cut too little than too much.



Step 9: On-car trimming may be required. Use a sharp utility or carpet knife.



Step 10: Oil the seat bolts and thread them into the holes before installing the carpet.



Step 11: Use a stapler to install any plastic guides or clips onto the replacement carpet.



Step 12: Find the seat bolts by feel. Cut an "X" on the bolt head. Poke the bolt through the carpet. Using a small screwdriver or pick as a drift pin is another method.



Step 13: Put everything back in the car now that the carpet is in place.



Step 14: Good as new.