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Sunday, 31 January 2016
Wednesday, 27 January 2016
7 Ways to Make Your Whole Vehicle Last Longer
By following a proper preventative maintenance schedule, you can easily double your car's useful life, while spending less at the gas pump and at the repair shop. Beyond regular maintenance to increase your vehicle's overall longevity, you should also ensure the longevity of your vehicle's individual parts. This can dramatically decrease the amount of waste your vehicle contributes over a year. This includes the oil, tires, brake pads, etc. There are many ways to help minimize the natural wear and tear of your vehicle's various parts, and these are my top 7.
1.Extend Life of Windshield Wipers
Windshield wipers are just one of those things that get old and needs replacement. You wouldn't want to be in the middle of a bad storm when your wipers fail. However, instead of replacing them every few months, you could just as easily extend their life, while allowing them to work at their peak efficiently. The rubber portion on your wipers will always work best when clean, so it is a good idea to wipe them with denatured alcohol (91%) once a month. You can also use fine sandpaper (1000 to 2000 grit) to do the job. This will keep them flexible and better able to hold to the glass and wipe water and the debris away.
Note: Keep in mind that when it comes time for wiper replacement, you should only need the rubber squeegee; not the entire metal rod. The only time you should need the rod is if it has become severely corroded or bent. However many wipers are designed to be replaced entirely, so you will have to consult with your local automotive specialist to see what options are available.
4.Take Care of Your Battery
A vehicle's battery should last you a number of trouble-free years, but if not cared for properly, their life can be greatly shortened. Proper car of your battery should include keeping it and its connection clean (1 tablespoon baking soda and water) and well insulated. You should also resist the temptation to run accessories (stereo, GPS, etc.) for extended periods without the engine running. If applicable, check your battery's water levels regularly, and if you don't drive your vehicle for extended periods, keep your battery healthy with the use of a solar battery charger.
5.Change Your Oil with Synthetic
While there is debate as to whether synthetic oil or conventional fossil fuel motor oils are greener, there is not much question as to which one lasts the longest. Synthetic oil costs twice as much, but also lasts twice as long as conventional motor oils with its superior formula which resists breaking down in extreme temperature environments. Instead of needing an oil change every 3 months, many motorists can extend this maintenance schedule by as much as 6 months, which reduces the amount of oil and oil filters in need of recycling each year.
6.Install a Lifetime, Washable Air Filter
You should always change your oil and air filter regularly for maximum vehicle longevity. While most air filters are not all that big, if you figure they are rated to last 15,000 miles, within 10 years, most drivers have thrown out enough of these to fill up a large garden-sized garbage bag. That's a lot of trash! You can replace all those air filters with just one if you purchase a lifetime, washable air filter. These cost twice as much as a paper filter (although they should last the life of the vehicle) and you will need to purchase a special oil to reactivate the filter after washing, but most people with reasonable mechanical ability should have no problem with such maintenance.
7.Keep your vehicle either covered or in a Garage
The elements have a way of breaking down metal and plastic. Intense heat and sun can quickly weather a vehicle under certain circumstances, as can snow and rain. While rain can sometimes be considered a good thing for your vehicle's paint, it can also promote paint damage in areas prone for acid rain. To slow down the process of paint oxidation and rust, storing your vehicle inside a sealed garage, or at least underneath a carport or breathable car cover. This will aid in keeping your vehicle's exterior looking like new. Why would you want to do this, beyond aesthetic reasons? It will boost the vehicle's overall longevity, and your chances of selling the vehicle in the future. A well kept vehicle will bring more buyers and greater profit, thus increasing the ultimate reuseability of your vehicle.
1.Extend Life of Windshield Wipers
Windshield wipers are just one of those things that get old and needs replacement. You wouldn't want to be in the middle of a bad storm when your wipers fail. However, instead of replacing them every few months, you could just as easily extend their life, while allowing them to work at their peak efficiently. The rubber portion on your wipers will always work best when clean, so it is a good idea to wipe them with denatured alcohol (91%) once a month. You can also use fine sandpaper (1000 to 2000 grit) to do the job. This will keep them flexible and better able to hold to the glass and wipe water and the debris away.
Note: Keep in mind that when it comes time for wiper replacement, you should only need the rubber squeegee; not the entire metal rod. The only time you should need the rod is if it has become severely corroded or bent. However many wipers are designed to be replaced entirely, so you will have to consult with your local automotive specialist to see what options are available.
2.Maintain Tires
The longevity of your vehicle's tires are about 30 percent their make and composition, and 70 percent the care and maintenance received by the owner. The best way to make sure your tires last a long time is to keep them properly inflated (paying special attention at the turning of the seasons), aligned, and have them rotated regularly as specified by the manufacturer. Doing this will ensure you get the maximum life out of each tire without uneven, premature wear becoming a problem.
3.Make Brakes Last Longer
Similar to tires, you can make or break the longevity of your brakes and pads simply by the way you treat them. Drivers who are guilty of the speed-up and brake style of driving, not only waste gas and increase their vehicle's emissions, they also go through brakes quicker. By allowing your vehicle to gradually come to a stop by timing when you let off the accelerator or down shifting a manual transmission, you can greatly reduce the amount of wear on your brakes.
Similar to tires, you can make or break the longevity of your brakes and pads simply by the way you treat them. Drivers who are guilty of the speed-up and brake style of driving, not only waste gas and increase their vehicle's emissions, they also go through brakes quicker. By allowing your vehicle to gradually come to a stop by timing when you let off the accelerator or down shifting a manual transmission, you can greatly reduce the amount of wear on your brakes.
A vehicle's battery should last you a number of trouble-free years, but if not cared for properly, their life can be greatly shortened. Proper car of your battery should include keeping it and its connection clean (1 tablespoon baking soda and water) and well insulated. You should also resist the temptation to run accessories (stereo, GPS, etc.) for extended periods without the engine running. If applicable, check your battery's water levels regularly, and if you don't drive your vehicle for extended periods, keep your battery healthy with the use of a solar battery charger.
5.Change Your Oil with Synthetic
While there is debate as to whether synthetic oil or conventional fossil fuel motor oils are greener, there is not much question as to which one lasts the longest. Synthetic oil costs twice as much, but also lasts twice as long as conventional motor oils with its superior formula which resists breaking down in extreme temperature environments. Instead of needing an oil change every 3 months, many motorists can extend this maintenance schedule by as much as 6 months, which reduces the amount of oil and oil filters in need of recycling each year.
6.Install a Lifetime, Washable Air Filter
You should always change your oil and air filter regularly for maximum vehicle longevity. While most air filters are not all that big, if you figure they are rated to last 15,000 miles, within 10 years, most drivers have thrown out enough of these to fill up a large garden-sized garbage bag. That's a lot of trash! You can replace all those air filters with just one if you purchase a lifetime, washable air filter. These cost twice as much as a paper filter (although they should last the life of the vehicle) and you will need to purchase a special oil to reactivate the filter after washing, but most people with reasonable mechanical ability should have no problem with such maintenance.
7.Keep your vehicle either covered or in a Garage
The elements have a way of breaking down metal and plastic. Intense heat and sun can quickly weather a vehicle under certain circumstances, as can snow and rain. While rain can sometimes be considered a good thing for your vehicle's paint, it can also promote paint damage in areas prone for acid rain. To slow down the process of paint oxidation and rust, storing your vehicle inside a sealed garage, or at least underneath a carport or breathable car cover. This will aid in keeping your vehicle's exterior looking like new. Why would you want to do this, beyond aesthetic reasons? It will boost the vehicle's overall longevity, and your chances of selling the vehicle in the future. A well kept vehicle will bring more buyers and greater profit, thus increasing the ultimate reuseability of your vehicle.
Sunday, 24 January 2016
Wednesday, 20 January 2016
How to remove the torsion bars off a 96 safari awd?DNT Tools
Removal
1.Raise and support vehicle. Remove wheel and tire assembly. Unload torsion bar tension. See Fig.1 . Mark adjusting bolt setting. Using Torsion Bar Unloading Tool , increase tension on adjusting arm.Remove torsion bar adjusting bolt, counting number of turns for reassembly reference.
2.Remove torsion bar adjusting nut. Slowly relieve torsion bar tension Remove unloading tool. Slide torsion bar forward. Remove torsion bar adjusting arm. Remove support mounting bolts, nuts and washers.
Remove support retainer, spacer and rubber insulator. See Fig. 2 .
3.Slide torsion bar support rearward. Slide torsion bar rearward and pull down to remove from lower control arm. Mark right and left torsion bars for reassembly reference. Torsion bars must be reinstalled in same location and direction as removed.
4.Inspect torsion bars, adjusting arms, retainers, rubber insulators and support for bend, cracks, deterioration or damage. Check adjusting bolt and nut for damage or stripped threads. Replace as necessary.
Installation
1.Install torsion bar rubber insulators, spacer and support retainer onto support. Install support assembly onto frame, slightly behind mounting holes.
2.Install adjusting arm and seal onto torsion bar. Slide torsion bar into lower control arm in original position. Slide torsion bar support forward, engaging rear of torsion bar in support. Install support mounting bolts,
nuts and washers. Tighten bolts and nuts to specification.
3.Install adjusting bolt and nut on each torsion bar. Add tension to torsion bar with Torsion Bar Unloading Tool. Ensure adjusting bolt is positioned to setting marked before removal. Release tension on unloading tool until tension is taken up by adjusting bolt. Remove unloading tool. Lower vehicle. Check wheel alignment and adjust ride height.
1.Raise and support vehicle. Remove wheel and tire assembly. Unload torsion bar tension. See Fig.1 . Mark adjusting bolt setting. Using Torsion Bar Unloading Tool , increase tension on adjusting arm.Remove torsion bar adjusting bolt, counting number of turns for reassembly reference.
2.Remove torsion bar adjusting nut. Slowly relieve torsion bar tension Remove unloading tool. Slide torsion bar forward. Remove torsion bar adjusting arm. Remove support mounting bolts, nuts and washers.
Remove support retainer, spacer and rubber insulator. See Fig. 2 .
3.Slide torsion bar support rearward. Slide torsion bar rearward and pull down to remove from lower control arm. Mark right and left torsion bars for reassembly reference. Torsion bars must be reinstalled in same location and direction as removed.
4.Inspect torsion bars, adjusting arms, retainers, rubber insulators and support for bend, cracks, deterioration or damage. Check adjusting bolt and nut for damage or stripped threads. Replace as necessary.
Installation
1.Install torsion bar rubber insulators, spacer and support retainer onto support. Install support assembly onto frame, slightly behind mounting holes.
2.Install adjusting arm and seal onto torsion bar. Slide torsion bar into lower control arm in original position. Slide torsion bar support forward, engaging rear of torsion bar in support. Install support mounting bolts,
nuts and washers. Tighten bolts and nuts to specification.
3.Install adjusting bolt and nut on each torsion bar. Add tension to torsion bar with Torsion Bar Unloading Tool. Ensure adjusting bolt is positioned to setting marked before removal. Release tension on unloading tool until tension is taken up by adjusting bolt. Remove unloading tool. Lower vehicle. Check wheel alignment and adjust ride height.
Monday, 18 January 2016
Wednesday, 13 January 2016
Winter Auto Maintenance Checklist
Winter is upon us, and winter driving comes with it. While safety is an important consideration all year long, there are certainly some auto maintenance jobs and safety checks that are specific to chilled air and winter driving that are a good idea to check into before we're knee deep in the season. To be sure you don't end up a road popsicle, or even worse end up with your holiday budget on ice thanks to unexpected repairs, have a look under the hood to be sure things are ship shape. As with any change of season, you should go to your regular maintenance log to make sure you are up to date on the maintenance items that should be taken care of throughout the year. The change of seasons is a great time to go through some once-a-year or twice-a-year auto maintenance tasks.
Winter Specific Maintenance
In addition to the added perils of winter driving, the change in weather can bring peril to your car's systems.
Freezing temps, salted roads and wintery precipitation can gang up on your car if you don't give it a baseball-bat sized maintenance session. These winter maintenance jobs will keep you out of trouble:
Check your antifreeze
Your antifreeze (the juice that goes in your radiator) is an essential part of your car's winter protection. Your car contains a 50/50 mix of water and antifreeze. Make sure the level is full and the mixture is close to 50/50. Many auto service stations and repair centers will check this mixture free, or you can buy a tester . You did remember to perform a radiator flush last spring, didn't you?
The last line of defense between you and an oak tree are your tires. Winter is not the time to get cheap about your tires, so take the time to check the tread depth. The National Highway Transportation Safety Board says you need at least 2/32" of depth to be safe. It's been my experience, especially in winter weather, that anything less than 4/32" (1/8") be replaced soon. The old penny test is as reliable as anything to find out whether your treads are ready for winter action. Also, be sure to check your tire pressure. Believe it or not, they lose a little pressure when it gets cold, so pump 'em up.
Do you need snow tires?
Wipers? What do your windshield wipers have to do with winter weather? Two things. First, anything falling from the sky is going to end up on your windshield, and unless you have a team of beavers riding on the hood of your car the task of clearing it falls on your wipers. Second, in areas that see snowfall in the winter, you're also driving through that soupy muck that's left on the road once the highway department does their thing. This muck includes a lot of sand and salt, both of which end up on your windshield. It takes wipers that are in top shape to keep your windshield clean and safe.
You'll be using lots of washer fluid as you try to keep your windshield sparkly. A mile stuck behind an 18-wheeler will have your windshield looking like a Desert Humvee if you're low on washer fluid. *Tip: Don't fill your washer fluid reservoir with anything except washer fluid, it won't freeze!
Annual Maintenance Procedures
On top of the checks you need to perform to ensure safe winter driving, now's a good time to do some annual maintenance. These aren't necessarily specific to winter driving, but it's a good point on the calendar to get around to doing this stuff.
Starting problems are a bummer any time of year. Regularly treating your battery to a cleaning can keep electrical gremlins at bay.
Inspect your spark plug wires
Cracked up plug wires affect performance, gas mileage and general reliability. Be sure yours are in top shape.
Brakes are not a good area to cut corners. Be sure your brakes have enough meat left to get you through the season.
This should go without saying and should be done at least monthly. But in case you're an amnesiac ... you should also do an oil change!
Cold weather safety should be a concern for anybody living in a cold climate. These tips will give you the upper hand when Old Man Winter tries to put a chill on your winter travels. If you're extra curious about staying generally safe in winter weather, the National Weather Service has an excellent Winter Safety & Awareness guide that covers everything from how storms brew to a list of history's billion dollar winter wonders.
Winter Specific Maintenance
In addition to the added perils of winter driving, the change in weather can bring peril to your car's systems.
Freezing temps, salted roads and wintery precipitation can gang up on your car if you don't give it a baseball-bat sized maintenance session. These winter maintenance jobs will keep you out of trouble:
Check your antifreeze
Your antifreeze (the juice that goes in your radiator) is an essential part of your car's winter protection. Your car contains a 50/50 mix of water and antifreeze. Make sure the level is full and the mixture is close to 50/50. Many auto service stations and repair centers will check this mixture free, or you can buy a tester . You did remember to perform a radiator flush last spring, didn't you?
- Inspect your tires
The last line of defense between you and an oak tree are your tires. Winter is not the time to get cheap about your tires, so take the time to check the tread depth. The National Highway Transportation Safety Board says you need at least 2/32" of depth to be safe. It's been my experience, especially in winter weather, that anything less than 4/32" (1/8") be replaced soon. The old penny test is as reliable as anything to find out whether your treads are ready for winter action. Also, be sure to check your tire pressure. Believe it or not, they lose a little pressure when it gets cold, so pump 'em up.
Do you need snow tires?
- Replace your wipers
Wipers? What do your windshield wipers have to do with winter weather? Two things. First, anything falling from the sky is going to end up on your windshield, and unless you have a team of beavers riding on the hood of your car the task of clearing it falls on your wipers. Second, in areas that see snowfall in the winter, you're also driving through that soupy muck that's left on the road once the highway department does their thing. This muck includes a lot of sand and salt, both of which end up on your windshield. It takes wipers that are in top shape to keep your windshield clean and safe.
- Check your windshield washer fluid
You'll be using lots of washer fluid as you try to keep your windshield sparkly. A mile stuck behind an 18-wheeler will have your windshield looking like a Desert Humvee if you're low on washer fluid. *Tip: Don't fill your washer fluid reservoir with anything except washer fluid, it won't freeze!
Annual Maintenance Procedures
On top of the checks you need to perform to ensure safe winter driving, now's a good time to do some annual maintenance. These aren't necessarily specific to winter driving, but it's a good point on the calendar to get around to doing this stuff.
- Clean your battery posts
Starting problems are a bummer any time of year. Regularly treating your battery to a cleaning can keep electrical gremlins at bay.
Inspect your spark plug wires
Cracked up plug wires affect performance, gas mileage and general reliability. Be sure yours are in top shape.
- Inspect your brakes
Brakes are not a good area to cut corners. Be sure your brakes have enough meat left to get you through the season.
- Check Your Engine Oil
This should go without saying and should be done at least monthly. But in case you're an amnesiac ... you should also do an oil change!
Cold weather safety should be a concern for anybody living in a cold climate. These tips will give you the upper hand when Old Man Winter tries to put a chill on your winter travels. If you're extra curious about staying generally safe in winter weather, the National Weather Service has an excellent Winter Safety & Awareness guide that covers everything from how storms brew to a list of history's billion dollar winter wonders.
Monday, 11 January 2016
Thursday, 7 January 2016
how to fix an automotive heater?DNT Tools
Tools and Supplies Needed
Begin with the vehicle on level ground, engine off (cold) in park with the emergency brake set.
Step 1 - A heater cannot operate unless the engine is full of coolant/antifreeze.
Step 2 - The heater control air blend door is controlled by a electronic/vacuum/cable which can malfunction causing a problem. Check the door operation by moving the heat control from hot the cold while listening for moment inside the heater plenum. (Note: This works better with the engine off.)
Step 3 - Inspect heater system vacuum lines especially to the heater control valve. These vacuum leaks can cause the system to not function. If a hissing noise is present under the dash when the engine is running a vacuum leak exists and must be repaired to restore the heater functionality.
Step 4 - The heater control valve prevents the flow of coolant into the heater core during the air-conditioner function, occasionally this valve will stick not allowing hot coolant to flow, inspect the valve for movement while in operation.
Step 5 - Use a vacuum gauge to test various control tubes which are used to move blend door actuators, also use a hand held vacuum pump to test servo diaphragms by connecting to the vacuum port directly. If no vacuum is present, open the hood and inspect all small vacuum lines from the engine to the firewall and under the dash, this test can be used for the heater control valve as well.
Step 6 - The heater core is responsible for converting hot coolant into heated air, if this core becomes plugged it will not operate correctly. To check for a plugged heater core, start the vehicle and allow the engine to warm up to normal operating temperature while turning the heater to its hottest setting. Grasp both heater hoses, they both should be hot, if only one is hot, the core could be plugged or the heater control valve is malfunctioning.
Step 8 - An air cabin filter helps clean the air before it enters the passenger compartment, when this filter becomes plugged it stops the airflow and needs to be replaced.
Helpful Information
Sometimes engine coolant level can be low without the engine overheating, especially in winter conditions. A heater control valve can be actuated by either a vacuum line or control cable. To warm the passenger cabin, the heater system makes use of heat generated from the engine by blowing across the heater core and onward through the system ductwork. When a heater core develops a leak, there are usually two indications, steam could be produced from the vent system and is accompanied by a pungent odor, or the passenger floor can become wet from leaking coolant, these are signs the core needs replacement.
- Flashlight
- Screwdriver set
- Protective gloves and eyewear
Begin with the vehicle on level ground, engine off (cold) in park with the emergency brake set.
Step 2 - The heater control air blend door is controlled by a electronic/vacuum/cable which can malfunction causing a problem. Check the door operation by moving the heat control from hot the cold while listening for moment inside the heater plenum. (Note: This works better with the engine off.)
Step 4 - The heater control valve prevents the flow of coolant into the heater core during the air-conditioner function, occasionally this valve will stick not allowing hot coolant to flow, inspect the valve for movement while in operation.
Step 5 - Use a vacuum gauge to test various control tubes which are used to move blend door actuators, also use a hand held vacuum pump to test servo diaphragms by connecting to the vacuum port directly. If no vacuum is present, open the hood and inspect all small vacuum lines from the engine to the firewall and under the dash, this test can be used for the heater control valve as well.
Step 6 - The heater core is responsible for converting hot coolant into heated air, if this core becomes plugged it will not operate correctly. To check for a plugged heater core, start the vehicle and allow the engine to warm up to normal operating temperature while turning the heater to its hottest setting. Grasp both heater hoses, they both should be hot, if only one is hot, the core could be plugged or the heater control valve is malfunctioning.
Step 8 - An air cabin filter helps clean the air before it enters the passenger compartment, when this filter becomes plugged it stops the airflow and needs to be replaced.
Helpful Information
Sometimes engine coolant level can be low without the engine overheating, especially in winter conditions. A heater control valve can be actuated by either a vacuum line or control cable. To warm the passenger cabin, the heater system makes use of heat generated from the engine by blowing across the heater core and onward through the system ductwork. When a heater core develops a leak, there are usually two indications, steam could be produced from the vent system and is accompanied by a pungent odor, or the passenger floor can become wet from leaking coolant, these are signs the core needs replacement.
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