Wednesday, 27 April 2016

10 Ways To Know When It's Time To Repair Or Replace Your Car


Handing over car keys





For many consumers, owning a car is not a luxury but a necessity. That doesn't mean they can't enjoy their car, even pamper it like a member of the family. But time and road miles tend to wreak all sorts of damage and wear on even the best-kept vehicle.

Sooner or later, the decision must be made whether to repair or replace your car. Here are 10 ways to help make the choice a little easier.

When repairs or maintenance cost more than the car is worth. You'll know it's time to get rid of the car and get a new one when the dollars start adding up to the point where it's going to cost you more I repairs or continual maintenance than the old car is actually worth. The key point to keep in mind here is that older cars tend to require bigger and more costly repairs.

Look at potential future repairs. Plunking down $1,500 or so for a repair job now may help you eke out a few more miles from your old car, but what's likely to come next? This is the automotive equivalent of a home money pit. At this point, have a trusted mechanic take a look at the car to spot looming problems and give you advice on how serious it is. The more the repair estimates or forecasts climb, the closer you may be to deciding on a new car.

What about safety? Not only do older cars, even the best-maintained of them, tend to wear out, consider the potential risks of having a breakdown while driving. New cars today come equipped with a lot of standard safety equipment, things like advanced airbags, side airbags, better handling and brakes, electronic stability control (now mandated by the federal government), and even rearview cameras. Optional active safety technology includes blind spot monitoring and lane departure warning systems, forward collision alert, drowsiness alert, and automatic parking. Since your old car likely doesn't have these safety features, when it starts to show its age, maybe it's time to look at a new car as a replacement.

When your car eats gas and mileage suffers, the problem may not be fixable. Let's face it. The older your car is, the less fuel-efficient it's going to be. That's because it doesn't have the engineering advances of newer engines, is likely nearing the end of its useful life, and will continue to go downhill or require increasingly more expensive repairs – like a new engine, transmission, or both.

Know what your car is worth. Before making the decision to go ahead and pay for repairs on your old car, you should take the time to find out what it's worth. Use tools available from sites like Kelley Blue Book and Edmunds to determine trade- in or retail value of cars similar to yours. A good rule of thumb is to employ the so-called “50-percent rule.” When repairs cost 50 percent of what your car is worth, it's time to replace.

Know what your next car will cost. You probably have some idea of the next car you want to buy, since you've likely been eyeballing magazine articles and kept a keen eye on models that catch your attention. Not only should you have a fairly good idea what that new car you want will cost, you'll also need to figure out how you're going to pay for it. Use the proceeds from the sale or trade-in of your old car to serve as a down payment to lower the amount you'll need to finance. Weigh and balance whether that monthly payment for the next 36 to 60 months is more or less than the anticipated annual outlay in repairs for your current car. Another rule of thumb here is to consider replacing your car if yearly repair bills are more than 10 percent of the price of the new car you're looking at.

Factor in insurance costs. Do your homework and calculate the difference in annual insurance costs for your old car compared to a brand-new one. If your old car isn't worth that much, you could drop comprehensive and collision, saving several hundred dollars . But your old car likely won't qualify for as many safety-related discounts available for new cars. Also keep in mind that performance, sporty and luxury cars cost more to insure than family sedans. In the end, insurance costs may not move you one way or another to repairing or replacing your old car, but they are something to take into consideration in the decision.

Pay attention to rebates and incentives. Nothing is more enticing than substantial money on the hood or low or zero-percent financing. You might even decide that leasing is a more attractive proposition this time around. When the incentives offered by automakers make the financial case for you, this is really a no-brainer for dumping a repair-prone older car and getting into something new. On the other hand, if your ride isn't that old and you've kept it up religiously, maybe foregoing the temptation to buy new is the right choice.

Lifestyle changes may dictate it's time for a change. Has your family size increased or decreased? Do you have longer or shorter commutes to work or school? Are there different recreational pursuits you're now engaged in that require more space or capability, maybe the need to haul items and gear or tow a boat or trailer? Maybe getting into a new vehicle that's more suited to your driving habits and needs is in order.

When you've just had enough of your old car. There's also a lot to be said for getting out of your old car and into a new one just because you're past being okay with what you have. You may have started a new job and want something more appropriate for business or you've yearned for a new car for the past few years and kept nursing the old one along as long as you could. In this case, if the financial picture makes sense and you can snag a good deal, go for the new car.

                                        offered by DNT Tools.

Wednesday, 20 April 2016

Application of coil spring compressor,DNT Tools

How To Use Strut Spring Compressor



1. Select correct set of Spring Shoes. Shoes


must be selected so that the spring coil fits

inside the guides as shown in Figure 1. Be sure the Shoes are properly seated in the Carriers and the Hex Socket Bolts are flush

with shoe and tight.

2. Place Spring Compressor on spring with shoes as far apart as possible. See Figure 2.

3. Wrap Restraint Chain around the Spring 
Compressor and strut two times as shown in Figure 2. Fasten the chain ends together with the clasp.

4. Use ratchet or air tool (l-1/16 in. or 27mm) to
turn Hex Nut clockwise to compress the spring.

CAUTION: If using a hand ratchet wrench, do



not apply torque so as to pull the Spring 
Compressor off of the Strut Spring.

IMPORTANT: Compress spring only far enough to relieve pressure on the Strut End Retainer.

DO NOT: Compress spring until coils touch or bind or allow shoe carriers to touch. See Figure 3.

DO NOT: Compress spring if it bows as shown in Figure 4.

5. Remove Strut End Retainer.

6. Turn Hex Nut counter-clockwise to release spring pressure. Then remove Restraint Chain and then the Spring Compressor.

NEVER REMOVE SPRING WITH THE COMPRESSOR STILL ATTACHED.

7. Make repairs to Strut as required.

8. Place Spring on Strut and again compress it using the Spring Compressor with the Restraint Chain attached. Compress the Spring only enough to allow the Strut End Retainer to be bolted into place. Tighten bolts to torque setting as recommended by the manufacturer.

9. Turn Spring Compressor Hex Nut counterclockwise to release spring pressure. Be sure the Spring is seated properly in the seats or pockets of the Strut. Do not open Spring Compressor beyond original setting or Strut may be damaged.

Wednesday, 13 April 2016

Coil Spring Compressor Guide/user instructions

COIL SPRING COMPRESSOR INSTRUCTIONS

This combination tool set includes special tools used to remove and install the front shock absorber nuts on many domestic vehicles.These shocks have a special stem shaped like a pair of the letter D positioned back to back (referred to as "Double D"). On vehicles with these types of shocks the following procedure should be followed to remove the shock nuts if changing shocks at the same time
as servicing springs. Before proceeding with spring removal, make sure to first loosen or remove the shock nuts as necessary using the included shock absorber tool set. To do so, use the following procedure:


























Procedure for removing "Double D" type shock absorber nuts:

  1. Place the provided 9/16" hex socket over the hex nut on the shock
  2. Fit the proper size oval ("Double D") socket over the end of shock stem
  3. Insert the square drive wrench (Red handle) into oval socket and hold to keep shock stem from turning.
  4. Turn the 9/16" hex socket with a 3/4" end [probably an open end wrench] wrench to remove shock nuts. See figure (a).
Procedure for Removing Springs:


Straight Springs
1. Lubricate threads on spring compressor with engine oil.
2. Remove the wheel and tire following the manufacturer's servicing information.
3. If the vehicle has a shock absorber that is located inside the coil spring, remove the shock from the vehicle following the manufacturer's
servicing information.
4. If the shock is located outside of the coil spring, remove the upper or lower attaching bolt to disengage the shock.
See figure (b).
5. Clean any grease or oil from the coil spring. Do NOT attempt to compress an oily spring.
6. Remove the nut and spring retainer located inside and at the bottom of the coil spring. See figures (c), (d) and (e).
7. Insert the spring compressor through the hole at the top of the shock tower or spring seat.
8. Install the hook assemblies to the coils closest to the ends of the spring where the hooks will fit easily. Note that there should be a short and long hook on each side of the spring. The distance between the ends of the hooks should be equal on each
side. Spring compressor should NOT have both short hooks on one side and both long hooks on the other side. See figure (f).
9. Hand tighten the nut at the end of the shaft until there is slight tension on the spring. Make sure the spring compressor is positioned straight up and down and that the center bolt is parallel to the spring. The hooks should line up with each other. See
figure (f).
10. Place an end wrench or ratchet on the center shaft's fixed nut. Carefully turn the nut while making sure that the hooks stay properly positioned on the spring coils. See figure (g).
11. Compress the spring only enough to clear spring seat and remove from the vehicle. In most cases, about 3-4" will be enough. Do not compress more than necessary. See figure (h).
12. Carefully remove spring from vehicle

Procedure for Removing Curved Springs:

The procedure for curved springs is the same as that for straight springs, but for curved springs the hook assemblies must be installed so that both short hooks are on one side of the spring and both long hooks are on the other side.






Wednesday, 6 April 2016

How to Replace Your BMW Rear Spring Coils?

The rear coil springs on E90 models have a tendency to break in salt belt areas. This is due to dirt and debris in the lower spring area, retaining moisture and causing spring to rust then fracture. It's important to replace your coil springs in a pair to avoid an uneven suspension. Inspect spring pads for wear and replace if necessary and always clean the spring perch area thoroughly. You can also use this repair if installing performance springs in your E90.

Raise rear of vehicle and support safely on jack stands. See our tech article on vehicle jacking. When jacking, get vehicle as high as possible. You will have to be able to fit a hydraulic jack under the rear swing arm.

Remove rear wheels.

Remove rear shocks. See our tech article on rear shock removing.

Place a jack under the lower swing arm. This will support the rear wheel bearing carrier when you remove lower swing arm fastener.

1.Working at upper control arm on brake rotor side, remove control arm fastener. (green arrows) Nut and bolt are both 21mm.



2.With swing arm fasteners removed, slowly lower jack until swing arm pressure is relieved.


3.Pull down on swing arm until coil spring drops out of upper mount. Then lift coil spring up and out of swing arm to remove.

4.If the upper spring insulator does not come out with spring, pull down to remove. (green arrow)

5.Inspect upper spring mount. If it is rusty or corroded, remove from vehicle. (green arrow) To remove, gently lever out using a prybar. It will pop out with very little pressure, be prepared to catch it.

6.Inspect lower spring insulator and replace if needed. (green arrow) To replace pull it out of swing arm.

7.When installing new spring, align end of spring (green arrow) with correct spot on insulator (yellow arrow). Insulator installs into swing arm one way.

8.Lift swing arm while lining up coil spring with upper mount. Then slide hydraulic jack into place. Once spring is properly installed in trailing arm, slowly raise suspension back into position. Install swing arm mounting fastener, then remove hydraulic jack from under training arm. Re-install rear shock and remaining items. After replacing your rear coil springs, it is a good idea to have your vehicle professionally aligned. This will prevent premature tire wear and ensure good handling.

edited by DNT Tools