Very easy How to remove front wheel Hub by bearing separator？DNT Tools

Brake Caliper Replacement Guide DNT Tools reviewed

Tools and Supplies Needed

Brake caliper
Tool set
Line wrench set
Brake fluid
Needle nose vise grips (optional)
3/8 Fuel line (optional)
Brake caliper lube
Brake cleaner
Vacuum cap assortment



Park your car on level ground with the engine off and the emergency brake on.Raise the car safely using a floor jack and secure with jack stands. Also we will be dealing with brake fluid so be sure to wear protective clothing, eye wear and gloves. This guide picks up after the wheel has been removed and finishes with the tire being reinstalled.



Brake fluid is corrosive and will damage your vehicle’s finish. If this fluid comes in contact with the painted surface quickly wipe it with a clean cloth and then wash the area with soap and water and you should be okay.



There are three reasons to replace the caliper, the first and most obvious is a fluid leak, the second is to prevent a leak due to age and the third is the piston is seized causing irregular braking or pad wear characteristics.


STEP 1: REMOVING THE BRAKE LINE

Once the caliper has been removed from the bracket it is ready for replacement. There are two methods of stopping brake fluid from running out of the master cylinder once the brake line has been removed.



The preferred method is to remove the brake flex hose from the frame brake line and use a rubber cap to plug it off. The reason for this is the master cylinder will drain out of fluid once the caliper line is removed which will cause problems bleeding the system.







Locate the brake line where it connects to the frame mount. Use a line wrench and loosen the fitting. A line wrench is used because these lines can be tight and if you use a regular wrench on them it will round the fitting and cause problems while trying to remove it.







Once the line has been broken loose you can use the regular wrench end and continue removing the fitting which makes the job faster, brake fluid will start to leak out slowly.




After the line is loose brake fluid will be dripping from it metal tube so be ready with a shop towel to catch it.





Now take the rubber cap and install it over the metal brake line to stop the fluid from leaking out. Next use a shop towel to wipe up any excess fluid and then flush with water and soap.




There is an alternative method to stopping the brake fluid from leaking though most professional don't like to use this because it sometimes can break down the internal lining of the hose. Take two pieces of fuel line and cover the jaws of a pair of needle nose vise grips.




Next, adjust the vise grip to gently pinch the rubber brake hose just enough to stop the fluid from flowing. It's important to not over tighten the hold on the rubber line because you don't want to damage it. If the brake line has cracks or is leaking it should be replaced along with the caliper.







Now it is time to remove the brake line from the caliper. Take a mental note or grab your cell phone and take a picture on how the brake line looks going from the frame to the caliper so you an reassemble it in the same manner.



Locate the mounting bolt which is sometimes called a banjo fitting and break it loose with a socket or wrench. A small amount of brake fluid will leak out, reposition the vise grips if fluid keeps leaking out.







There will be two sealing washers that are made of copper or aluminum which are on either side of the brake line bulk head. These washers will need to be replaced and should come with the replacement calipers.



If it is too difficult to loosen the fitting then reinstall the caliper onto the mounting bracket which will hold it while undoing the banjo bolt. Grasp the caliper once the line has been undone because it is heavy and can cause injury if it falls.




Hold the caliper and separate it from the mounting bracket and the rubber flex hose, a small amount of fluid may leak out, now we are ready to match the old caliper to the new unit.

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How to Wax Your Car？DNT Tools

Get in the habit of giving your car a regular wax or polish and you'll thank yourself later

Regular car waxing will improve your vehicle's look and prolong the life span of its paint. Learning how to wax and buff your car properly can save you a bunch of money over time.

WHAT YOU'LL NEED

You'll need an electric orbital buffer, which can be purchased for as little as $40 (a higher-end model will run you closer to $300). You can also use a high-speed angle grinder with a buffing wheel attachment for around $50 on the low end and $500 on the high end. Buffing pads start at about $5 each, plus you'll need buffing compound. You can buy car polish, car wax, and microfiber cloths in kit form for $10 to $20.

A high-speed angle grinder with a buffing wheel will give you the best result, but be warned: It requires practice to master the technique so you don't unwittingly damage the paint. An orbital buffer is easier to use for the inexperienced, but it won't be as effective—the rotational speed of the buffer isn't able to strip back the paint as quickly. Deeper scratches and oxidation will require working the affected area for longer with an orbital buffer to achieve the same results as with an angle grinder.

BUFFING

Apply a generous amount of buffing compound to any heavily weathered or scratched surface. Buffing works by stripping away a fine layer of paint and exposing the fresh paint underneath, and the compound acts as a paint stripper. Waxing your car immediately after buffing will replace the protective properties of the original clear coat.

Spread the compound out evenly across the area with the buffing pad (while the buffer is not in motion) to ensure that the compound doesn't splatter onto adjacent surfaces. Avoid getting the compound on chrome, rubber, or glass.

Turn the buffer on and work the area in circular motions, holding the pad completely flat at all times. Turning the buffer at an angle or applying too much pressure can burn the paint surface and cause swirling. Work one quarter of a panel at a time until you get a bright gloss. The surface should feel smooth and look new.

If the paint is in good condition and requires only some freshening up, follow the same method as above, but use car polish instead of buffing compound. You won't need as much polish as you would buffing compound because polish can cover a greater area and will strip away less paint. Follow the process across the entire surface of the car until the paint is restored.

Buffing should usually be done once a year. If your car is stored in a garage and its paint is in good condition, use only polish rather than a compound. If you live in a coastal region and your car is stored outside, it may require more frequent buffing. This is due to the high salt content of sea air, which causes paint to oxidize faster than it would in an arid climate. Cars parked under trees will typically be covered in tree sap and bird droppings, which can also damage paint. Your car could require buffing two or three times a year in these circumstances.

WAXING

Apply car wax using a clean buffer pad. Spread it evenly, gently pulsing the trigger of the buffer (instead of keeping the buffer turned on continuously). This will ensure that the wax doesn't cake on the surface. Cover one-quarter of the panel at a time before removing the wax. Some waxes will require a set time before removal, so refer to the directions on the bottle. Use a microfiber cloth to remove the wax, using circular motions to achieve a high gloss.

Repeat the process across the entire surface of the paint.

Because it's generally recommended that you wax your car every three months (but don't buff every time you wax), car waxing is a good skill to have. Your car will look great, and your wallet will thank you.        

                                          DNT Tools edit

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How to replace axle seals?DNT Tools

Step 1: This seal has seen better days. One common way seals fail is when axles are removed, or installed improperly, thus tearing the rubber seal.





Step 2: Here is the new seal, ready to install. Note the spring on the back of the flexible seal. Be careful not to drop this into the transmission or differential.



Step 3: First pry the old seal out of the differential or transmission. A seal removal tool makes this task easy.



Step 4: Seal and bearing race installation tool comes with different sized discs. Choose one that fits into the seal mounting point, yet is only slightly smaller then the seal itself.



Step 5: Next, seat the new seal level into the mount. Tap the seal level into place with the seal tool until the seal is fully seated. Be careful not to deform the seal.

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10 Things Your Tires Can Tell You About Your Car. DNT Tools reviewed

Your tires are your car's only connection to the road. They're overlooked as safety items, but sometimes they're the first place where a problem will appear. We show you how to read your tires and know what the warning signs mean.

No.1 Center Wear

It Looks Like: Your tire is worn down only in the middle.

The Diagnosis: This tire was overinflated, causing the center ring only to contact the road. Consequently, whoever drove this car had only a fraction of the rubber contacting the asphalt, so his or her traction suffered.

To find the correct tire pressure, check the door placard or the owner's manual. Check the pressure when the tires are cold, before you start driving. Some people claim that you should overinflate tires to reduce rolling resistance and increase fuel economy. But that's a fool's game. You might save some fuel, but you'll pay more in prematurely worn tires.

If your pressure is correct but you still see center wear, this could indicate that the wheel and tires are not properly matched. There is one caveat here: Woody Rogers, product information specialist at Tire Rack, says that some rear-wheel-drive vehicles can produce center wear on certain tires, even if they're properly aired up and maintained. But that's true only for high-powered sports cars.

No.2 Cracking and Bulging

It Looks Like: Pretty self-explanatory.

The Diagnosis: This usually comes from hitting a pothole, curb, or debris. Underinflation and overinflation put tires at a greater risk of damage from impacts.

Large cracks in the sidewall that runs along the rim are either impact-related or caused by chronic underinflation. Numerous small cracks in the sidewall or tread blocks come from exposure to the elements and age.

Bulging is what looks like a pimple in the tire, most often in its sidewall. It happens when there's an impact that causes internal damage, but the damage doesn't show up until weeks or months later. With cracks or with bulging, you're looking at buying a replacement. "[The tire] should be removed from service, regardless of the cost," Rogers says. "Eventually, it will fail."

No.3 Cupping (Also Called Scalloping)

It Looks Like: A pattern of alternating hills and valleys

The Diagnosis: It happens when worn or damaged suspension components cause the tire to bounce as it travels, coming down harder on some spots of the tire than others. Bad shock absorbers are the usual cause, though anything that connects the wheel to the rest of the car could be a culprit.

Be careful with your diagnosis, though. Even tire shops sometimes incorrectly identify feathering or heel-toe wear as cupping. A wheel that is out of balance may also cause cupping or bald spots to form, though there will be fewer hills and valleys than you'd see with cupping caused by a failed shock absorber.

No.4 Diagonal Swipe

It Looks Like: Cupping or scuffing, but in a diagonal pattern.

The Diagnosis: This tire trouble is most often seen on the rear tires of a front-wheel-drive car with an incorrect toe setting. Insufficient tire rotation intervals may also cause a diagonal swipe. A third possibility: If you frequently carry heavy loads in the trunk or cargo area of a vehicle, that may change the geometry of the suspension, leading to a diagonal swipe.

No.5 Outer-Edge Wear

It Looks Like: The inside and outside edges are worn down; the middle is not.

The Diagnosis: This is a telltale sign of underinflation. Too little pressure is arguably the most dangerous condition for a tire, as it will flex more and the heat that builds up could cause a blowout. (Remember the Ford Explorer Firestone mess? The cause was mainly underinflated tires.) And an underinflated tire won't absorb bumps well and may knock the front end out of alignment or damage the suspension.

How to Avoid Underinflation: Again, keep an eye on your tire pressure by checking it monthly. Don't rely on the car's tire-pressure monitoring system to let you know when a tire is low on air. "[The warning system's] threshold is typically 25 percent underinflated," Rogers says. This means a tire that should be at 28 psi could be down 22 psi before you see a warning light. And that could be low enough for you to destroy a tire.

No.6 Feathering

It Looks Like: Feathered tread blocks are shaped like a series of ramps in a directional wear pattern that goes sideways across the tire. The lower edges of the ramps are rounded while the higher edges are sharp. If you can't tell by looking, run your hands across the tread blocks.

The Diagnosis: Most often, feathering means the car's toe setting (a measure of the car's alignment) is off. If the toe setting is correct, a worn or damaged suspension bushing could be causing the car's alignment to shift as you drive. Check for worn or damaged ball joints and wheel bearings as well.

No.7 Flat Spots

It Looks Like: One single spot on the tire is more worn down than the rest.

The Diagnosis: Single spots of heavy wear show up on the tires when a car has been in a skid—say, the driver saw a deer on the highway and slammed on the brakes. A car without an antilock braking system is more likely to lock up its tires under heavy braking, which can cause a flat spot.

Also, cars that are parked for extended periods of time risk getting flat spots where the weight of the car has deformed the patch of tire contacting the ground. Unlike flat spots resulting from a skid, these show no additional tread wear—but nonetheless, the tire is misshapen. Although radial tires can have this problem, bias-ply tires are more prone to getting flat spots from sitting too long, especially if the tires are sitting in any kind of corrosive liquid, such as gasoline or antifreeze.

No.8 Heel-Toe

It Looks Like: Feathering, only the ramps run front-to-back along the tire rather than side-to-side. The leading edge of the tread blocks will be worn smooth while the trailing edge will be sharp.

The Diagnosis: "[It's] definitely one of the most common conditions we see," Rogers says. "Because it's so common, a lot of people think it's normal." Heel-toe wear is typically a symptom of insufficient tire rotation intervals. So check your car's maintenance schedule and make sure you keep up. Misalignment or worn or damaged suspension bushings, ball joints, and wheel bearings can also cause heel-toe wear.

No.9 Single-Side Wear

It Looks Like: One side of your tires wears down faster than the other.

The Diagnosis: The car's camber setting is likely off, causing the tire to lean too far to one side. Take the car for an alignment adjustment. Worn or damaged springs, ball joints, and suspension bushings can also cause single-side wear as could carrying heavy loads frequently, incorrect toe setting, and insufficient tire-rotation intervals. Some performance cars leave the factory with enough camber to induce single-side wear, but that's rare.

No.10 Tread-Wear Indicators

They Look Like: Ridges between the tread blocks. They sit tucked away between the treads where they can't contact the road.

The Diagnosis: When the tread wears down to the point that it is flush with the indicators, the tire has reached the end of its life. But depending upon the driving conditions you usually encounter, you may not want to wait for the indicators to become flush with the tread.

The tread depth of a typical tire is 11/32 inch, and those channels are there to funnel out water and prevent hydroplaning. The tread-wear indicators are 2/32 inch high, but Rogers recommends no less than 5/32 to 6/32 inch of tread for snow and 4/32 inch of tread for rain or sleet. Wet-weather performance declines significantly after 4/32 inch, so replace the tire before its indicators become flush with the tread block.

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