Monday, 31 October 2016
Friday, 28 October 2016
Wednesday, 26 October 2016
Rear Drum Brakes and Replacing Them
If you know you need to replace one of your drum brake cylinders, we hope you're considering doing it yourself. Don't be intimidated by the job. Sure, brakes are super important, but it's also easy to know whether you've done the job right. Proper and thorough testing after a brake repair is essential to your safety. But once you've tested the system, chances are you did the repair correctly and your vehicle is safe. Besides, brake work isn't that hard to do!
Remove the Brake Drum to Access the Wheel Cylinder
Before you can even see the brake cylinder, you'll need to remove the brake drum. It comes off fairly easily with one bolt in the center holding it on. Be sure your emergency brake is NOT pulled up for this job (but use some wheel chocks to keep your car from shifting while you have it on the jack stands safely). For more specific information on removing the brake drum, check out this page which shows how to remove the drum.
Accessing the Brake Cylinder
With the brake drum off, you will be able to see the brake shoes and the wheel cylinder that requires replacement. Unfortunately the brake cylinder (also called the wheel cylinder) is guarded closely by two brake shoes and a cluster of springs. This mass can be very intimidating. The good news is on most cars this cluster of shoes and springs can be removed as a single unit without taking it completely apart.
There are two pins that hold the brake shoes onto the backing plate. These are spring loaded from the front, so the best way to remove them is to push them in from the front, and then reach around to the back and give them a twist. Twist each pin a quarter turn and that cluster of brake shoes and springs is almost out. The brake cylinder at the top is the last thing attaching the shoes assembly to the backing plate. Using a large spreader, or two screwdrivers, pry the top of the shoes assembly apart enough to clear the wheel cylinder ends, and you'll be able to see the wheel cylinder clearly. If you were lucky enough to keep the brake shoes assembly in one piece, set it aside for reinstallation later.
Disconnect the Brake Line
Before you start to remove the bolts on the back of the wheel cylinder, you've got to disconnect the brake line. The brake line is threaded into the back of the wheel cylinder through the large backing plate. To remove it, find the correctly sized line wrench to loosen then unscrew it. I strongly recommend using a line wrench to avoid stripping the hex on the brake line. Once this is ruined the whole line must be replaced.
A regular open end wrench doesn't have enough surface area on the hex head to remove a stubborn brake line.
Removing the Old Wheel Cylinder
With the brake line removed you're finally read to remove the wheel cylinder. It will be held in place by one or two bolts through the back of the brake backing plate. Many original steel or iron wheel cylinders are held in place by two bolts, but the replacement part may be held in by a single bolt. This is normal, and if your new wheel cylinder has only one bolt, there should be a note in the box telling you it's normal.
Remove the bolts on the back of the wheel cylinder, then pull the old one off.
You might hae to give it some light taps with a hammer because that thing's probably been there a long time.
As they say in car repair, installation is the reverse of removal, so get to it. And don't forget to bleed the brakes when you're done!
Monday, 24 October 2016
Friday, 21 October 2016
Wednesday, 19 October 2016
How to Perform a Wheel Alignment？DNT Tools
Safety Tip: Always wear safety glasses when working on your vehicle. Wear other personal protective equipment (PPE) when necessary, for example latex gloves or closed toe shoes.
1.Road test vehicle on flat surface.
2.Drive vehicle onto the alignment rack. Inspect front suspension components for any excessive wear. Repair as needed.
3.Enter vehicle's information into alignment machine to obtain manufacturer's alignment specifications.
4.Install alignment heads on vehicle's wheels.
5.Center and level heads on wheels.
6.Adjust vehicle's alignment.
7.Road test vehicle, assure vehicle drives straight and steering wheel is centered.
1.Road test vehicle on flat surface.
2.Drive vehicle onto the alignment rack. Inspect front suspension components for any excessive wear. Repair as needed.
3.Enter vehicle's information into alignment machine to obtain manufacturer's alignment specifications.
4.Install alignment heads on vehicle's wheels.
5.Center and level heads on wheels.
6.Adjust vehicle's alignment.
7.Road test vehicle, assure vehicle drives straight and steering wheel is centered.
Monday, 17 October 2016
Friday, 14 October 2016
Wednesday, 12 October 2016
how to change differential fluid?6 steps
It’s time to face facts. Every once in a while your rear end needs a little help. Whether you drive a rear-, front-, or all-wheel-drive vehicle, the wheels spin by way of a differential. The gears inside the differential distribute engine energy to the axles, and the axles spin the wheels the right way at the right speed when you hit the gas.
Another important function of the differential is to allow the drive wheels to spin at different rates as you round a corner. The inside wheel spins slower than the outside wheel because it travels a shorter distance around the bend. From this difference, the differential gets its name. The gears inside the differential slide around coated in a slippery film of oil. Just like engine oil, the differential fluid must be changed at regular intervals. Not quite as often, but at regular intervals nonetheless. Without the lubricating properties of this high-pressure gear oil, friction will quickly wear through the special layer of hardened steel on the gear teeth, and the gears can fail prematurely.
When to change differential oil
While an excellent time to change gear fluid is when the differential has to be drained for axle service and the like, it’s always best to consult your owner’s or service manual for proper intervals. Not just any oil can stand up to the extreme pressures dished out by the constant lashing of the differential gears. The oil must be able to withstand the shocks and loads created by the transfer of engine horsepower and torque to the wheels. Right up until commercial whaling was largely outlawed in the 1970s, a major component of this high-pressure lubricant came from sperm whales. These compounds have since been replaced with more modern manufactured equivalents.
Choosing the right differential oil
The first consideration is proper weight, or viscosity. The next is the GL rating. Without getting into a lecture on lubrication, the best path to take is to use only what is specified for your differential. If the manual calls for a GL-5 rated 90W gear fluid, then that is the only way to go. Second-guessing the engineers that designed the differential and filling up the case with the wrong gear oil can ultimately add up to an expensive guess.
Another important consideration when it comes to differential fluid is the requirements of the limited slip, or traction-sensing differential. In a normal or “open” differential, the torque, or twist, created by the driveline is always applied to both wheels, regardless of whether one of those wheels happens to be spinning helplessly on an icy surface. A limited slip differential (LSD) will sense this loss of energy and redirect torque to the wheel that has the most traction.
While there are various types of mechanisms used to accomplish this miracle of redirected traction, most of them require friction modifiers unique to their own design to work correctly. An LSD without these special lubricants will at best not work correctly, and at worst fail outright, ending up costing a bundle to rebuild and repair. If your vehicle has an LSD, always be sure to use gear oil that contains the correct friction modifiers for that particular LSD.
Changing the differential oil
A final note is that all differential fluids possess a particular odor that may or may not appeal to your senses. Sulfur compounds used in extreme pressure lubricants smell either like rotten eggs or worse depending on additive concentration. A good call is to wear clothes you can throw away and not get any gear oil anywhere you don’t want to smell it for a while. This applies in particular to the interior of the vehicle. If for some odd reason you like the smell of rotten eggs, you’ll absolutely love the smell of gear oil. If not, then take the proper precautions to avoid the lingering reminder of a gear oil change.
Step-by-step guide to changing differential oil
Step 1: Secure the vehicle on jack stands or ramps. Locate the differential drain bolt. Loosen and remove.
Step 2: Allow time for the gear oil to completely drain. Replace the drain bolt. Wipe any excess gear oil from the case.
Step 3: Locate and remove the gear oil fill bolt.
Step 4: Use a pump to slowly add the recommended type of gear oil to the differential.
Step 5: Add the recommended amount of gear oil to the differential, or until gear oil starts to dribble out of the fill hole.
Step 6: Reinstall and tighten the fill hole bolt. Wipe off any excess gear oil from the case.
Another important function of the differential is to allow the drive wheels to spin at different rates as you round a corner. The inside wheel spins slower than the outside wheel because it travels a shorter distance around the bend. From this difference, the differential gets its name. The gears inside the differential slide around coated in a slippery film of oil. Just like engine oil, the differential fluid must be changed at regular intervals. Not quite as often, but at regular intervals nonetheless. Without the lubricating properties of this high-pressure gear oil, friction will quickly wear through the special layer of hardened steel on the gear teeth, and the gears can fail prematurely.
When to change differential oil
While an excellent time to change gear fluid is when the differential has to be drained for axle service and the like, it’s always best to consult your owner’s or service manual for proper intervals. Not just any oil can stand up to the extreme pressures dished out by the constant lashing of the differential gears. The oil must be able to withstand the shocks and loads created by the transfer of engine horsepower and torque to the wheels. Right up until commercial whaling was largely outlawed in the 1970s, a major component of this high-pressure lubricant came from sperm whales. These compounds have since been replaced with more modern manufactured equivalents.
Choosing the right differential oil
The first consideration is proper weight, or viscosity. The next is the GL rating. Without getting into a lecture on lubrication, the best path to take is to use only what is specified for your differential. If the manual calls for a GL-5 rated 90W gear fluid, then that is the only way to go. Second-guessing the engineers that designed the differential and filling up the case with the wrong gear oil can ultimately add up to an expensive guess.
Another important consideration when it comes to differential fluid is the requirements of the limited slip, or traction-sensing differential. In a normal or “open” differential, the torque, or twist, created by the driveline is always applied to both wheels, regardless of whether one of those wheels happens to be spinning helplessly on an icy surface. A limited slip differential (LSD) will sense this loss of energy and redirect torque to the wheel that has the most traction.
While there are various types of mechanisms used to accomplish this miracle of redirected traction, most of them require friction modifiers unique to their own design to work correctly. An LSD without these special lubricants will at best not work correctly, and at worst fail outright, ending up costing a bundle to rebuild and repair. If your vehicle has an LSD, always be sure to use gear oil that contains the correct friction modifiers for that particular LSD.
Changing the differential oil
A final note is that all differential fluids possess a particular odor that may or may not appeal to your senses. Sulfur compounds used in extreme pressure lubricants smell either like rotten eggs or worse depending on additive concentration. A good call is to wear clothes you can throw away and not get any gear oil anywhere you don’t want to smell it for a while. This applies in particular to the interior of the vehicle. If for some odd reason you like the smell of rotten eggs, you’ll absolutely love the smell of gear oil. If not, then take the proper precautions to avoid the lingering reminder of a gear oil change.
Step-by-step guide to changing differential oil
Step 1: Secure the vehicle on jack stands or ramps. Locate the differential drain bolt. Loosen and remove.Step 2: Allow time for the gear oil to completely drain. Replace the drain bolt. Wipe any excess gear oil from the case.Step 3: Locate and remove the gear oil fill bolt.Step 4: Use a pump to slowly add the recommended type of gear oil to the differential.Step 5: Add the recommended amount of gear oil to the differential, or until gear oil starts to dribble out of the fill hole.Step 6: Reinstall and tighten the fill hole bolt. Wipe off any excess gear oil from the case.Sunday, 9 October 2016
Saturday, 8 October 2016
Wednesday, 5 October 2016
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