How to Resurface a Brake Rotor

When it comes time to repair brake rotors, there are a few things you should know about. A brake rotor is something that can be resurfaced and repaired several times before it must be replaced. It is important that you know how and when it's the right time to resurface a brake rotor. If brake rotors are resurfaced too much, it can result in shortening the life of the rotor as each time it's resurfaced, the rotor becomes thinner.

Step 1 – Know When Resurface Is Necessary

One of the main reasons for resurfacing brake rotors is due to parallelism. If you notice that your vehicle is having trouble staying parallel, this is one of the first indicators brake rotors need to be resurfaced. Also, look for rotor scoring. Rotor scoring could be a cause of a bad pad formulation.

Step 2 – Sand

A rotor surface may need to be cleaned with 120 grit sandpaper to remove old material build-up. Use the sandpaper to get the surface clean and free of excess material. This is something you can do without having to resurface the rotors. You can also use roll lock discs to do the cleaning job. These two items will get your rotor clean and smooth without having to do the actual job of resurfacing.

Step 3 – Resurface

Whenever rotors need to be resurfaced, it is recommended you use the services of a center specializing in brake repair. A professional center has the equipment and experienced staff to do the job properly. Ask the service technician if it is time to replace the rotors or if resurfacing is recommended. If resurfacing is all that's needed, once completed at the service center, you can reinstall the rotor yourself.

Step 4 - Test

Test drive your vehicle to determine if the resurfacing process has made a difference in the way the vehicle functions. If there is no change, it may be resurfacing is not enough to address the problem and it's time to replace the rotors.

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How to repair a Dent in Your Car

There are few things that can ruin the good looks of a car quite as fast as an unexpected dent or ding. Whether the dent originated from a runaway shopping cart at the supermarket or from a careless driver on the freeway, getting a dent in your car's body can be detrimental to its appearance and value, and repairing those dents at the local body shop can be tremendously expensive.

Luckily, there a number of affordable ways to fix car dents.

Note: Depending how severe the damage actually is, what metals your car’s body is made from, and the dent’s size, it may not respond to the do-it-yourself approach.


Understanding DIY Dent Repair

The only way to completely eradicate a dent is to have an expert use their time, a number of tools, and dozens, if not hundreds, of precision “bends” to reshape the metal and completely erase any sign of warping.

For example, suction cup kits can technically fix a dent in the sense that the crater the dent created will no longer be present. Unfortunately, that same sharp suction action will likely pull the metal too far out, so instead of a dent, you’ll have a bulge. If you’re a stickler and want your car back exactly the way it was, these kits may not be for you, as they may just end up swapping one ugly problem for a less ugly, but still slightly ugly, problem.

However, if you’re like the many people who purchase these dent-puller kits online and in stores, you’ll probably be okay with making that compromise. The post repair bumps that pop outward are not as noticeable or unattractive as conventional dent craters.

If you’re willing to attempt them and sincerely want to avoid paying a body shop, one of these kits is certainly worth a try.

efore getting started, be sure to borrow or purchase a dent pulling kit or dent pulling tool, along with a dolly, which is a specially designed tool made for flattening and reshaping metal. A metalworking hammer will be necessary as well.

Step 1 - Find Your Center

Locate the center of the dent and use a hot glue gun to glue a plastic adapter to the center of the dent. These plastic adapters and glue guns are included in many dent removal kits.

Alternatively, if you are willing to puncture the finish you can drill a hole in the dent’s center with a 1/8" drill bit.

Step 2 - Placing the Dent Puller

Thread the dent-pulling tool into the newly drilled hole, or attach the dent-pulling tool to the plastic circle that is glued on the dent. After the dent pulling tool is in place, pull on it to bring the indented part of the body outward so that it will bend into a position that is more flush with the surrounding body.


Step 3 - Hammering

Carefully hammer the front of the dent using the metalworking hammer, while at the same time holding the dolly firmly against the back of the dent. It may be necessary to go underneath the car, open the trunk, or go behind hood in order to reach the back of the dent.

Step 4 - Grinding Paint

Use a medium-grit disk mounted on a drill to grind the paint down to the bare metal, extending the area out at least 1" around the dent itself. Then fill the entire area with a quality body filler.

Step 5 - Sanding

Allow the body filler to dry completely, then carefully sand the area with sandpaper that has been wrapped around a block of wood. When sanding, begin with a 36-grit sandpaper and work up to a 120-grit sandpaper.

Step 6 - Apply Primer

Use a spray primer to prime the area, being sure to use a primer specially designed for automotive use. Six coats of primer should be used, allowing each coat of primer to dry completely before applying the next coat. Sand the primer using a 600-grit wet and dry sandpaper. This will help to remove any scratches.

Step 7 - Repaint

The area should then be touched up with a matching automotive paint. If the paint is not smooth, sand and repaint the area until you have a smooth surface.
Myths About Popping Out Dents

As you saw above, that fix requires a fair amount of work and equipment. Again, even with your coaxing, dents don’t magically pop out. The furthest you’ll get with suction and hammering a car’s body is a bulge instead of a crater.
Temperature

A common myth about dents is that under the right temperature conditions, heat and expanding gases on the other side of the indentation will force the metal to shift and the dent will pop back in to shape. On the other end of the spectrum are the people who suggest using dry ice for similar claims of spontaneous self-repair. Neither of these approaches have been proven to work.
Paintless Dent Repair

This refers to a situation where a dent can be repaired so seamlessly and without fuss that the process of fixing it won’t even require you to paint any of the body afterwards. This one isn’t a myth, but it is an incredibly specialized skill set that is usually limited to those who work in body shops.

PROS AND CONS OF SUSPENSION LOWERING

Should you invest the time and money required to have your vehicle’s suspension lowered? It’s a question that many drivers never even think about. Before you make the decision to proceed with lowering your vehicle’s suspension, consider the options and understand the pros and cons that a lowered suspension entails.

Why Get a Lowered Suspension?

Lowering your suspension is an aftermarket alteration that makes your vehicle sit a little bit lower to the ground. There are several implications to this, including a number of performance and safety advantages.

Here are some of the main advantages of lowering your suspension:

Improved aerodynamics. When the vehicle sits closer to the ground, it means there is less air going underneath the vehicle, which in turn means less wind drag on the car.

Improved handling and traction. Generally speaking, lowering the vehicle closer to the ground improves the tires’ grip on the road, leading to improved handling. But this is not true across the board, as lowering the suspension on some vehicles may actually impair handling.

Reduced risk of rollover. A high center of gravity is a liability for any vehicle, giving it a higher risk of rollover. Lowering the suspension lowers the center of gravity and reduces the risk of a rollover.

Enhanced comfort. This is somewhat subjective, but some drivers say that lowering the suspension simply makes their vehicle more comfortable and less prone to rattling around.

Are There Disadvantages to Lowering the Suspension?

The perks of suspension lowering are significant, but it’s also important to note some of the potential downsides to lowering the suspension of a vehicle. Here are some of the main downfalls:

Increased bottoming out. When you lower the suspension, you raise the risk of the vehicle’s bottom skidding against the ground, especially when it bounces. Speed bumps can be especially difficult here. Contact with the ground can leave many of your vehicle’s components vulnerable.

Unevenness in the tire wear. In some instances, lowering the suspension can have ill effects on the tire wear patterns. This is definitely something to ask about before you have the suspension lowered.

Conflict with other systems and components. Sometimes when you lower the suspension, you bring it into closer contact with other parts of the car. The results of this can be problematic, especially when you bring the suspension too close to the anti-lock brake system, the tire sidewalls, etc.
Making Changes to Your Suspension

The bottom line is that changing your suspension has both positive and negative effects on your vehicle. It’s best to talk about this process with a trained mechanic who can help you think through all the implications. Don’t make any suspension changes until you’re confident about how they will pan out.

What is Brake Problems?

Brake Light is On
 
If your brake light is on then you need to find out why right away. Your brake warning light is there to tell you that something is wrong in your braking system. This section will tell you the most common causes as well as what you should do about it.

Brake Noise
 
If you've noticed some type of brake noise other than squeaking brakes then this is the section for you. I explain the most common causes of brake noise and why they happen. I also explain some of the best ways to avoid and/or fix this problem.

Squeaking Brakes
 
If you have noticed your brakes squeaking lately then check out this article. I'll tell you the most likely causes or this noise as well as some of the likely fixes as well. Some of them you can easily fix yourself while others need to be fixed by a mechanic.

Steering Wheel Shakes When Braking

If you have this problem there is one thing that will cause it 99% of the time. Read more to find out what it is and how to fix it.

Brake Fade

If you've ever been driving down a long hill and noticed that your brakes didn't really stop the car the way it should then you may have a problem with brake fade. In almost all cases brake fade can be completely avoided. I'll explain why this happens and how to keep it from happening again.

Master Cylinder Problems

At some point you will probably have to deal with replacing your master cylinder. Here is a look at some of the common things that might be causing your problem along with what to do about it.

Brake Caliper Sticking

This is not a common problem, but it does happen sometimes. If you have this problem, or suspect it I'll show you some of the main areas of concern and what might be causing the problem. I'll also give you some of the most common ways to fix it.

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How Many Do You Know About Spark Plugs?

What do spark plugs do?

Think of spark plugs as the tiniest bolt of lighting. Small but mighty, the spark of electricity that the plug emits across a small gap creates the ignition for the combustion needed to start your car. By putting the engine’s pistons in motion, your car can power up, stay powered up and produce a smooth burn of the compressed air-fuel mixture. Mind you, spark plugs like it hot: they withstand extreme heat and pressure within your cylinders and are built to burn off deposits from fuel additives or other contaminants.


What does it mean for you?

Well, without a spark, your car won’t start – or go anywhere. And because spark plug health is directly linked to engine performance, it stands to reason weak or bad spark plugs lead to problems, be it issues with cold-starting or misfires during acceleration. Besides – without healthy ones – your ride can’t sustain maximum power, and your vehicle can see a drop in fuel economy. Now, nobody wants that.
How often should spark plugs be replaced on my vehicle?

Luckily, spark plugs don’t require replacement very often and can go years and many miles before replacement is a must.

Most auto manufacturers suggest having new spark plugs installed about every 30,000 miles; however, spark plug longevity depends on the condition and type of spark plug. Copper plugs, for example, have the shortest life, while plugs made of more advanced and durable materials can provide up to four times the life of a copper spark plug.


What happens to a spark plug as it ages?

By the time spark plugs reach old age, they’ve spent thousands of miles enduring abuse and withstanding the most extreme temperatures and conditions to stay intact. That’s where the importance of spark plug material comes into play. The stronger the material, the more durable and long-lasting the spark plug. Naturally, though, every spark plug undergoes wear and tear, materials aside.

Spark plugs can’t last forever, and here’s why:

Spark plug deposit buildup: When deposits form on spark plugs from interaction with the air-fuel mixture, it can lead to pre-ignition of the fuel. That means a jerky and unreliable supply of energy for your car.

Expanding, harder-to-jump gap: When a spark plug ignites, it has to travel across a gap of space in order provide the right level of combustion at the right moment. As spark plugs age, this gap widens as a result of extreme temperatures, debris and normal wear and tear. If the gap is too far apart, combustion will be erratic or ineffective.


What is the benefit of replacing a spark plug?

The primary benefit is knowing your car will start without a hitch. Needless to say, that’s not all that matters. New spark plugs provide a lot of other performance benefits as well.

New Bosch spark plugs will lead to:

• Consistent production of optimal combustion. Fully functioning spark plugs equate a fully functioning combustion system. Get this operating successfully, and a lot of performance issues you’re experiencing could be a distant memory.
• Better fuel economy. The National Institute for Automotive Service Excellence says misfiring spark plugs can reduce fuel efficiency by 30%. New plugs, when replaced at specified intervals, maximize fuel economy and save some dough.
• Smooth and energetic starts. The first time you turn the ignition with a new spark plug can be a eye-opening experience. That old spark plug may have been the reason your car was experiencing those jerky starts.
• Less harmful emissions. The Environmental Protection Agency states that regular engine tune-ups – especially in regard to spark plugs – not only save gas but also reduce air pollution. That’s a win-win.

How involved is spark plug replacement service?

The complexity of a spark plug exchange varies from straightforward to very involved. Your vehicle must be worked on when the parts are cold, and the amount of time it takes to complete the service varies by make and model. In some cases, it may be necessary to disassemble vehicle parts in order to reach your spark plugs. Plan ahead, because a vehicle drop-off is usually required.
What symptoms may indicate my vehicle’s spark plugs need replacing?

The signs of worn spark plugs. Hear it. Feel it. Sense it.

• Rattling, pinging or “knock”-like noises. When spark plugs begin to misfire, you may notice unusual noises from the force of the pistons and combustion not working properly. Pistons travel at high velocities. If the spark plug fires at the wrong time, this could lead to constant rattling, pinging or knocking sounds.
• Hard vehicle start. If your car is having trouble starting or just feels disjointed and jerky, your spark plugs may not be working right, and this can lead to misfires and erratic performance.
• Reduced performance. When you’re out cruising, your spark plugs fire when you accelerate and change gears. If the spark that this little plug generates isn’t functioning at 100 percent, your vehicle performance will be poor, and you’ll experience a sluggish and fuel-wasting drive.
• Poor fuel economy. Lots of things can lead to poor fuel economy, though when it comes to old spark plugs, you’ll find fuel is wasted since your vehicle fails to receive the proper, heat-generating spark at the right time.

If you’ve spotted any of these symptoms, we suggest having your vehicle inspected in order to prevent further problems. Healthy spark plugs are vital to your car’s ability to start up and remain powered.

Can’t I just get a tune-up, like the old days?

Back in the day, a tune-up meant replacing spark plugs, spark plug wires, the distributor, distributor cap, rotor and points and condenser in addition to setting the timer and adjusting the carburetor. Nowadays, though, your car’s computer does most of the heavy lifting, leaving you to worry most about the spark plugs and fuel injector, sensors and switches.

It’s important to note the modern “standard” tuneup, today, means changing your spark plugs.

Our standard tune-up includes:

• Visual inspection of your engine components
• Installation of Bosch spark plugs
• Timing and idle set (if necessary, though most of today’s vehicles have computer systems adjust these automatically)
• Supply 12 month/12,000 mile limited warranty

Wheel Alignment vs. Front End Alignment: Is There a Difference?

Do you ever find that your vehicle seems to veer, even slightly, to the left or to the right? If so, this could be the result of poor wheel alignment. This is both a simple yet urgently needed fix. Not only will an alignment make for a smoother and safer ride, but it will also extend the lifespan of your tires.

Along with “wheel alignment”, you may also heard of the term “front end alignment”. Do these two things mean basically the same thing? For all intents and purposes, yes. Wheel alignmentmay refer to the alignment of all four wheels, especially in Four Wheel Drive vehicles. Front end alignment only references the front two wheels. But no matter what you call it, getting your wheels aligned is something every vehicle owner should invest in from time to time.

Why Wheel Alignment Matters

When your car is first manufactured, the wheels are aligned, tested, adjusted and ultimately verified at the factory. In a brand new vehicle there shouldn’t be any problem with wheel alignment. But over time, most drivers will find that their wheels fall out of alignment.

There are various reasons for this, most of which have to do with driving conditions. Driving down a poorly maintained road can cause wheels to become misaligned. Driving badly down these roads can make things worse. Hitting potholes and running into curbs can also affect your tire alignment.

Wheel alignment issues may not be noticeable at first but damage can still be occurring. When tires are even slightly out of alignment, it can accelerate uneven wear and tear on your tires. This means your tires won’t be performing as well as they should be, and you might have to spend money to have those tires replaced sooner than expected.

Getting Your Wheels Aligned

Ultimately, there are several benefits to having your wheels aligned regularly:
Your tires will last longer.
Your vehicle will drive smoother.
Your wheels will point in the right direction, which means you can cruise without worry.
Your car will take less energy to keep going, which can save you money at the pump.
Your car will handle better, which means it will be safer.

Unfortunately there is no definite way to tell when your tires are out of alignment until you take your vehicle to an auto care professional. If too much time passes and the misalignment becomes so bad that the car no longer drives in a straight line, considerable tire damage has already been done.

This is why it is best to have your vehicle inspected regularly. Make sure alignments are a part of your routine maintenance efforts. To learn more, take your vehicle to a service professional and inquire about how often you need to have an alignment.

How to Troubleshoot Auto Air Conditioning？

How to Troubleshoot Auto Air Conditioning？

Before you start air conditioning troubleshooting you need to realize that it is not as easy as you might think. There are many things that can go wrong when trying to fix your AC system yourself. 
Probably the most common problem that people run into when attempting DIY A/C repairs is that they get dirt and other debris in the system and/or they don't put the correct amount of freon in the ac system.

When the system is not flushed of all debris and old oil, it will never cool right. If there is too much or not enough refrigerant then it will also never cool how it should and it could even pose a danger. Modern air conditioning systems MUST be clean and have the correct amount of freon in them in order for them to cool properly. Here's more information that will help you sort it out air con troubleshooting


How Your AC System Works
It is a very little known fact that a fully functional air conditioning unit does NOT run out of Freon. Freon (R-134a or R-12 in older systems) is pumped through the AC system by the compressor.

The compressor compresses the gas and pushes it into the condenser. The condenser causes the gas to turn into a liquid. This high pressure liquid has now lost a lot of heat and is ready to take in heat from the interior of the car. It is pushed through a drier which keeps the liquid dry, then it goes to an expansion valve (there are other names for this device but they work in a similar manner).

The expansion valve pushes the liquid through a very small opening thus creating small droplets of refrigerant that is then pushed through the evaporator. In the evaporator the liquid refrigerant (R-134a) changes from a liquid to a gas. In this process it takes in large amounts of heat and thus the air is cooled.

The low pressure gas is sucked into the compressor. This process is repeated, using the same gas over and over. Nothing comes in and nothing comes out. The water that you see leaking from the car on a hot day when you have been pumping the AC is due to condensation on the cold bits and does not come from within the unit. Just like water droplets gathering on the outside of a cold glass of juice.

To put it another way, the gas is not used up, so it continues to do what it does, as long as it stays inside your car’s air conditioning system. The fridge in your kitchen works on the same principle as your auto AC and how many times have you heard of someone refilling their fridge with Freon?
Air Conditioning Problems in Cars

Air Conditioner Leaks


Leaks are, as I mentioned, not the only possible culprit. Simplistically put, you may require air conditioning repair when the mechanical or electrical bits break. The bits include things called evaporator coils, compressors, electric motors, condensers, belts and pulleys. Like all electrical and mechanical things, they can wear down and break.

Air Conditioning Evaporator


Evaporator coils are generally not worth repairing. The cost of reconditioning one of these tends to exceed the cost of replacing one with a new part. A new part will last longer in any case.

A/C Compressor

Compressors can be repaired, depending what the problem is. If you just have a problem with a compressor clutch then it can sometimes be replaced. This is becoming less common as companies are opting to manufacture compressors that do not have serviceable clutches.

Most of the time you will just have to replace the compressor. These are not cheap. Including labor, you are probably in for anywhere from $100 to $1000.
A/C Belts and Pulleys

You may know what a belt or a pulley is. Your engine probably uses several of them. As the engine works, it drives not only the wheels, but other components such as your alternator and power steering.

Ever noticed how the wheels are impossible to turn when the car is off? Your engine is connected to these other things by a pulley system. A pulley is a wheel which has either has teeth or grooves on it. The engine turns a pulley. A belt, which is a very strong rubbery thing, fits into the grooves of the engine pulley and in turn drives the air con’s pulley.

Fairly simple. Belts and pulley’s wear out and need to be replaced. Replacing them seems easier than it is unless you have the right tools. In order for them to work properly, they need to be under the correct tension. Something called a tensioner, does just that. Your mechanic can replace the AC pulley quickly and if you have the right tools you can do it fairly quickly as well.

If you decide to replace your AC belt yourself then be sure you have a serpentine belt diagram. There is usually one located on the hood or somewhere in the engine compartment, but if you can't find it then you need to get a repair manual that has one. No matter how much you think you remember how it goes, you will forget!

I am all for the enthusiast tinkering about or those with tight purse strings doing some DIY to save a few dollars. Most of the time auto air conditioning troubleshooting is not worth the effort or the money to risk doing yourself. One exception to this is if you are diagnosing an electrical problem in your AC system. As long as you are not messing with the Freon you can probably do some of the diagnostics yourself.

DIY or Take It to a Mechanic?

A leak is not the only possible problem with auto air conditioning. Before I move on to other possibilities let me be clear: go to your mechanic. You are not going to fix the leak yourself. Air conditioning troubleshooting is not an easy DIY job.

I would not start squirting dye I bought at the corner store into the air conditioning system to find a leak. The dye used by the professionals is proven not to damage anything. That being said you can find tracer dye at any good auto parts store. However, you have to get this dye into a pressurized ac system. You can get a kit at auto parts stores and even Wal-mart has the fitting to put it into the air conditioner.

The problem though, is that you don't know what you are putting in with these kits. If you put it in then have to take your car to a repair shop they would not touch it because they would have to use a machine that would suck it into their refrigerant bottle and if they don't know what it is they certainly won't put it into their stock (as this would contaminate their whole bottle).

You almost certainly don’t have the equipment do this safely and it is not worth buying the equipment unless you are planning to open an air conditioning troubleshooting shop. A repair shop will have an AC machine that is used to vacuum out all of the old refrigerant, ac oil, ac dye, etc. It will then be used to put the correct amount of refrigerant, oil and dye back into the system.

Kits are available but chances are pretty good that even if you were to find the leak, fixing it is hardly ever straight forward. Every time you get it wrong, you are going to pay to refill the gas and then try again. I doubt very much that you will source the parts for less than an auto repair shop, who buy parts in bulk.

You get my point - Air conditioning troubleshooting and repair is best left to a mechanic.

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What do you need to know about brakes?

What do you need to know about brakes?

 Brake Basics

How do brakes work?

Just as your ankle bone is connected to your foot bone, your brake system relies on each connected brake part to function successfully — and safely.



Here’s a quick lesson: By pressing down on the brake pedal, you activate the cylinder that delivers brake fluid to the calipers that then engage your brake pads. Your brake pads then apply pressure to the rotors, creating the friction needed to stop your car. You see, it’s all connected.

All your brake parts work together to perform one important and crucial function: safe and precise stopping power.

What is a Brake Inspection?

Thorough, comprehensive, extensive, and methodical are just a few characteristics that describe our brake inspections. When we say brake inspection, we not only mean it, but we demonstrate it on every automobile we service. Because in order to detect a problem, we need technicians that not only can spot potential problems, but also have the know-how and precision to regain brake awesomeness. When we’re finished, you’ll have total confidence knowing your ride has received a brake inspection that’s hard to match.

Brake Inspection includes checking your brake:
pads (and/or shoes)
calipers
rotors (and/or drums)
wheel cylinders
hardware (springs and adjusters)
hoses
parking brake cables
fluid condition
wheel bearings and grease seals
master cylinder fluid exchange

How often should I have my brakes inspected?

When you visit your doctor for a physical on a yearly basis, you’re being smart about your health. Same goes for your brakes. A yearly checkup will not only give you the confidence and guidance of our expert technicians, it will also provide you with the best opportunity to spot the necessary smaller repairs to avoid the bigger and more expensive ones. If you’re experiencing any warning symptoms, then a more immediate inspection may be required.

Consult your owner’s manual for specific brake inspection intervals for your particular make and model.

What are brake pads?

Brake pads are the parts that contact your rotors and cause friction in order to stop your car.

What’s a rotor?

The rotor is directly connected to each tire. To stop your car, the rotor must stop spinning. It stops spinning by friction created by the brake pad.

What’s a caliper?

The caliper applies pressure and activates brake pads so the pads create contact with the rotors. The caliper requires brake fluid in order to function properly.

What’s a brake hose?

When you press down on your brake pedal, brake fluid travels through the brake hose to each caliper, which puts the brake pads into action.

What exactly is brake fluid?

Brake fluid is a crucial element needed to make your brakes operate successfully. When pressure is generated in the brake fluid lines, energy is distributed to your brake parts so they can perform their main job — stopping your car. If you have a brake fluid leak, your car could take longer to stop or, worse, won’t stop at all. If your vehicle has no brake fluid, you’re brakes won’t even operate. And that’s a scary situation we’d never wish on anybody.

How to Check Oil Level in a Car？

How to Check Oil Level in a Car？

Knowing how to check oil level in a car is important for every vehicle owner. Find out what is the normal oil level for your car and how to top up engine oil today.

How to Check Engine Oil Level


After you have a container of the correct type of engine oil for your car you need to be sure that your car is parked on a level surface. If it is not then your readings will not be correct and you might put too much or to little oil in your engine.

Then you need to find the engine oil dipstick and oil fill cap. The dipstick is typically bright yellow or orange and the oil fill cap will usually have writing on it indicating that it is the oil fill cap.

After you have located the oil dipstick, you need to start your car and let it run for a minute or two. This will make the engine oil warm and will make it easier to read the correct level. Then you need to pull it out and check to see where the oil level is on it. This reading is just an initial reading and will not be super accurate.

After the initial reading you need to wipe off all the oil with disposable towels. Be sure that it is very clean. The cleaner it is, the easier it will be to read the oil level correctly.


How to check oil level in a car: You should have some markings that look similar to the image below. Virtually all manufacturers have their own way of marking the oil dipstick so you may need to read your owners manual to be able to understand yours. In the example below, the normal oil level should be between the two small hole markings:

After wiping the dipstick clean, put it back into the dipstick tube. Make sure that it goes all the way down and seats correctly on the tube. Wait for a few seconds then pull it out again and see where the oil level is. In the image below, the oil dipstick indicates that the oil level is full:

How to Find an Oil Leak?

How to Find an Oil Leak

It’s easy to shrug off an oil stain in your driveway as a minor cosmetic blemish, but what starts out as a little “automotive incontinence” can quickly lead to bigger problems, including (gasp!) irreversible damage to your engine. But how do you know what type of fluid is leaking from your car and what do you do about it? Read on to learn why you should take the time to identify your leak, especially one related to your engine oil, and get tips for what to do when your drips become more than just droplets!

Why should I bother identifying an oil leak?

A teaspoon of oil helps the pistons go down. Yup. Engine oil lubricates the pistons in your engine, ensuring that they glide smoothly within their housing. Without proper lubrication, the pistons will grind against other parts of the engine, generating enormous amounts of heat, i.e. friction. If your engine runs out of oil (because of a leak) the heat generated by the un-lubricated pistons can cause the pieces of your engine to grind together and seize up, causing your engine to stall. Taking a few minutes to identify the source of your leak could mean the difference between something as major as a damaged engine, or something as minor as an empty reservoir of windshield wiper fluid.

How do I find my oil leak?

Step 1: Investigate the leak. Is it even oil?

If you notice spotting in your parking place, it’s time to do some investigating. First, lay down newspaper or a white plastic plate and try to catch some of the drips. Engine oil is an amber color, feels thin and slippery, and has a strong chemical odor, which is what you should look for if you suspect an oil leak.

However, older engine oil can be dark brown to black, with a gritty or gunky texture. (Please note, this is not the ideal state for your oil. Clean engine oil is crucial to the health of your car. Dirty oil is a sure sign that you need to schedule an oil change.)

If the fluid is green, bright orange, or pink and feels sticky, then you may have an antifreeze leak. Not sticky but still one of these colors? Then it’s probably windshield washer fluid, which isn’t a major deal unless you plan on driving through a Saharan dust storm sometime soon. Clear or yellowish fluid?brake Fluid

Pro Tip: While antifreeze is extremely toxic, it has a sweet smell and taste that makes it attractive to many pets. If you suspect an antifreeze leak, do Felix and Fido a favor and get it fixed ASAP. Hose down the driveway or garage floor too!

Step 2: Check your fluid levels, across the board

Next, start checking various fluid levels. Check your oil level by inspecting the dipstick (it often has a red or orange plastic tab on it, under the hood). If you have low oil and you’re pretty sure you’re seeing engine oil drips on your driveway (Remember: look for amber fluid that’s slippery and smells like chemicals), then a leak is likely. If the oil looked more reddish, check the power steering reservoir. Does that fluid need to be topped off?
Step 3: Track down the source

Discovering the source of an oil leak takes a bit of detective work that’s probably best left up to the professionals. However, common sources of leaking engine oil are a damaged oil pan, an old oil filter, or a worn out gasket somewhere on the engine. If you feel like getting a little dirty and donning a trench coat and Sherlock Holmes-esque cap, here are a few tips for tracking down the source of the oil leak:
Turn the engine off and shine a bright light into the engine area. Is oil pretty much everywhere? Could be a slow leak related to the engine’s gaskets.
Now turn the engine on. If oil starts wildly spraying like a little kid with a hose on the Fourth of July, then oil is probably seeping past a worn crankshaft or seal. This type of leak will only be apparent when the engine is running though, writes Popular Mechanics.

Step 4: Visit the oil experts

Luckily, a full service oil change from Firestone Complete Auto Care includes a 19-point inspection (to look for any leaking components) an oil filter change, and a top off on all your car’s vital fluids. Yup, even windshield wiper fluid. Regular, full-service oil changes from Firestone Complete Auto Care are one of the best ways to stay on top of your car’s fluid and engine health. Find your nearest Firestone Complete Auto Care location today and schedule your full-service oil change or oil repair service today! Our ASE-certified technicians may not wear trench coats or caps like Sherlock Holmes, but you can bet they’re super sleuths when it comes to oil leaks and repairs.

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How to Change Oil Filter in a Car?

                                How to Change Oil Filter in a Car?

1. Remove Oil Filter

 Now that you have everything you need and the car is jacked up enough for you to crawl under it you need to try to loosen the oil filter by hand.

Don't put the drain pan under the car yet. It is big and bulky and just gets in the way. You will most likely need to try different positions in order to get the best torque (twisting force) on the oil filter. Be sure to wear work gloves when you are trying to loosen the filter. These types of gloves will give you extra grip on the filter and they will protect your hands from used oil.

If you cannot get it to loosen then you will need to use a strap wrench. If there isn't enough room for that then you have to resort to oil filter pliers - This is a special tool that will adjust to the diameter of your oil filter and and create a vice-like grip. These work great to loosen very tight oil filters.

2. Drain Oil Filter

After you break it loose, be sure to put the oil drain pan under it before you loosen it any more. After you get the oil drain pan under the oil filter then you can go ahead and loosen it the rest of the way. It is important to have gloves on and to be in a position in which the oil won't run all the way down your arm.

As soon as you get the oil filter off, just take it and put it face down in the drain pan. Look at the mounting surface where the oil filter attaches to the engine. Be sure that the gasket from the old filter is not stuck to it and if it is then remove it. It's also a good idea to clean this surface.

After you move the drain pan out from under the car you will need to tip the oil filter up on its side so all of the oil can drain out. Let the filter drain for 24 hours, then you can throw it in your household trash.

3. Lubricate Oil Filter Gasket

Unpack your new oil filter and use some fresh motor oil to lubricate the gasket on the new oil filter. This will help to ensure a tight and leak-free fit on the engine. If the filter sits straight up and down on the engine, it's a good idea to pre-fill the filter with motor oil too.

The reason for this is because when you first start the engine after the oil filter change there will be virtually no lubrication because the oil pump will have to fill the filter with oil first. If it is already full then you will get lubrication to your engine much sooner.

4. Change Oil Filter

So far you have removed the oil filter, checked that the oil filter sealing surface on the engine is clean and oiled the oil filter gasket on the new one. Now it's time to get yourself into position to put the new filter back on.

At this stage of replacing an oil filter, it is crucial that you keep the top of the oil filter covered as much as possible while lifting it into position. You can do a lot of damage to the engine if dirt or other debris gets into the oil filter.

Once you get it into position start turning it to tighten. Be sure to not put too much pressure on it while you are getting it started. If you put too much pressure on it while turning it you can end up getting it cross-threaded and that would ruin your whole day. This can be an expensive fix.

Just be sure to start it gently. You should be able to feel it start threading on. As soon as it starts threading on I spin it fairly fast. The reason for this is so that I can watch it spin and when it suddenly stops I know that the oil filter gasket has contacted the engine block. This is an important thing to know because you only need to turn it 3/4 of a turn after the initial contact with the engine block.

This step for changing oil filters isn't exact science. If the filter is a little too tight it's not a big deal, but you don't want it to be too loose.

How Does an Alternator Work?

An alternator's main purpose is to maintain the battery. Basically what happens is that it uses the engine power to create electricity and sends it over to the battery to keep it fully charged. Engine power is sent to the alternator via the engine drive belt, aka serpentine belt. This is why it is so important to keep the belt tight and replace it when needed.

When you are driving your car with all the lights on, the windshield wipers on and the radio blasting it uses a lot of electrical power. If all you had was a battery all of this electricity usage would drain the battery in a matter of minutes (sometimes more like an hour depending on how good your battery is). To prevent this from happening and to keep our battery fully charged, we use an alternator.

what is types of spring for your vehicle?

As you drive your car, the wheels and tires come intact with varying types of terrain, including speed bumps, rough patches, potholes and over highway hazards. The up and down motion from this can be highly disruptive to your driving experience but fortunately, modern automobiles are outfitted with springs, which absorb much of this motion and keep your ride as smooth as possible.

These springs are vital to your vehicle’s suspension. As such, if you are doing any kind of work on your suspension, it pays to know how these springs work. It's worth noting that there are different types of springs found within suspensions.Take a moment to familiarize yourself with these four classes of springs—coil springs, leaf springs, coil over springs, and lowering springs.

Coil Springs

Coil springs are the easiest to visualize. They look basically like the typical coiled/spherical springs you’ve seen elsewhere. You’ll find coiled springs most often in older cars and in heavier trucks, specifically on the front suspension between the upper and lower control arms. These springs can carry some really heavy loads, but they don’t necessarily provide the smoothest ride quality, which is why you won’t find them as often in newer, smaller vehicles.

Leaf Springs

Here’s another type of spring that you’re most often going to find primarily in trucks and in older vehicles. These springs actually look like long strips of metal, bowed to allow some rebound. Depending on the load size the vehicle is meant to carry, these springs may be layered. They are found mostly toward the rear of the vehicle, and, again, offer a ride with a fair amount of bounce to it, hence their not being as common in newer or smaller vehicles.

Coil Over Springs

Sitting over a strut carriage, the coiled over spring is probably the best way to get a great performance but also good ride quality. This is highly advanced spring technology, and you’ll find it at the front of almost every new car; for performance vehicles, you’ll find a coil over spring at the front and the back. You may even get a specialty wrench with your vehicle, making it easy to adjust your coil over spring.
 
Lowered Springs

Finally, we come to some aftermarket spring options. The lowering spring lowers the vehicle’s center of gravity and alters the spring rate. These changes can enhance the vehicle’s performance, but can also compromise the quality of the ride and make for a truly difficult and bouncy driving experience. You’ll definitely want to speak with a suspension expert before you make this aftermarket change to your vehicle.

Of course, as with any part of your vehicle, your springs may occasionally require some maintenance. If you notice any problems with your ride quality, make sure to take your vehicle in for an inspection by a suspension care expert.

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What to Do When Your Car Won't Start?

What Does It Mean When Your Car Won't Start

If your vehicle won't start then there is a chance that you would just need a jump start, but before you try that you should verify that your "security" light is not flashing. If it is then your problem probably does not have anything to do with the battery or starter, it is most likely because your security system is not letting it start.

If this is the case then you need to read your owners manual to see how to fix this or contact your dealer. Since all makes and models are different there is no universal way to turn off the security system. If the security light is NOT flashing then you need to start checking the other things that can cause a no start.

To troubleshoot, repair and maintain your vehicle, you'll need diagnostic and repair information that is specific to your car or truck. With full manuals for over 30,000 vehicles online, you will find an exact match for your vehicle's year, make and model.

Besides being cheaper than a factory manual, they also offer step by step repair instructions and detailed diagrams beyond what is found in most printed manuals

What to Do If Your Car Won't Turn Over

If your car will not turn over (make noise and do what it usually does right before it starts) then there are several things to check.

The first thing to check is your battery. There are several ways to do this. The best way is to have it load tested. Most auto parts stores and many repair shops will do this for free. This test is the MOST reliable test to see if your battery is good or not.

If you can't or don't want to do this test, you can try turning on all your accessories (heater, radio, lights, etc.). After they are all on, go out and see how bright the lights are. If they are dim this tells you that the battery is probably not as strong as it should be.

Another good test requires a multimeter (also called a DVOM). These are cheap (under $20) and you can use it to run lots of diagnostics on your car.

After you have your meter, check the battery voltage to see how many volts it has with none of your accessories on and your key off. It should have a MINIMUM OF 12.4 VOLTS. Many people think that a fully charged battery should have 12 volts, but a fully charged battery should actually have approximately 12.6 volts.

The battery is the most common cause if your car won't start. The next most common cause is the battery cables not being tight or they are too corroded. This is an easy thing to check...just try to wiggle them. If they move, then they are too loose. Also look for white or blue buildup on the connections. This is an indication that the cables are corroded.

If your battery is good, the next most common cause if your car won't start is the starter. Many times when the starter starts going out you will hear clicking noises from your engine compartment and sometimes it will take more than one try to get your car to start. If your battery is bad it can cause these same symptoms as well so be sure to check your battery FIRST.

The best way to test your starter (If you have already tested your battery) is to put the multimeter leads on your battery and have someone try to start the vehicle. Read the voltage at this time. If the voltage drops below 9.6 volts then it is likely that your starter is faulty.

If you are having starting problems it is possible that your ignition switch is going bad, but it is very unlikely as they do not go bad very often. This can be diagnosed fairly quickly at most good auto repair shops, but is more difficult for the home mechanic.

What to Do If Your Car Turns Over But Won't Start

If your car DOES turn over but your car won't start then everything gets harder. The reason for this is that there are WAY more things that can cause a no start when the car will turn over but not start. The most common causes for this type of problem are:

Fuel pressure, camshaft sensor, crankshaft sensor, ignition problems, etc.

Testing these components can get very technical so my recommendation is to take your car to a good repair shop. Many times people just start replacing parts, and end up spending a lot more money that it would have taken them to just take it to a professional to have it diagnosed.

If your car will crank (turn over) but not start then it COULD be just a sensor problem. The camshaft sensor or crankshaft sensor. These sensors give the computer the information it needs to calculate ignition timing, the amount of fuel needed, etc. so if these sensors are not working it can cause your car not to start.

If your car won't start it is VERY UNLIKELY that there is any major damage. It is possible that there is internal engine damage, but it is very rare. If you suspect that there is you should take your car to a reputable repair shop to have it diagnosed because you want to BE SURE that there is damage before you have to spend a lot of money to have it fixed.

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How to repair Car Air Conditioning?

What is “Black Death”?

While Black Death is not the same as the deadly plague during the 14th century, a car A/C system experiencing Black Death will be infected like the plague. Black Death starts out inside the compressor after refrigerant breaks down. Since refrigerant acts as a working fluid much like how motor oil is the fluid which provides lubrication to protect the engine, a refrigerant breakdown will result in ugly wear, starting in the compressor. From there, the sharp and grimy metal particles created during compressor breakdown can then travel through the rest of your A/C system, wreaking havoc on the entire system. Before you know it, all cold air, and airflow for that matter, will be long gone. Cue the A/C grim reaper

Why does my A/C have weak airflow?

We feel your pain and discomfort caused by weak airflow. The sweat alone is enough to drive any of us crazy. However, there are a lot of factors at play. If you notice reduced airflow early on –rather than later– take the right step and have it looked at before other fatal A/C system damage can occur.

Main causes of weak airflow:

• Mold or mildew may have accumulated in the evaporator core from residual moisture that occurs during the cooling process. When this happens, air will have trouble reaching your air vents.
• A hose has come loose. This usually happens with the blower hose that supplies air to the blower unit.
• Ventilation fan is fried. If the fan’s not blowing, air won’t be flowing very well.
• Seals. No, not those seals down by the pier. Core case seals, blower house seals or evaporator core case seals; All can open up and diminish air flow. A/C ventilation systems are very sensitive and must remain sealed. Once they’re opened, the whole system is compromised..

Are there any system warning lights to alert me to an A/C problem?

Typically, no, but some vehicles have Driver Information Centers (DIC) that may display the status of many vehicle systems. Refer to your Owner’s Manual for more information.

My A/C isn’t as cold as it used to be, what’s going on?

There are several reasons an A/C system can lose its cool. Bring your ride to us as soon as you start noticing this symptom, it could mean the difference between needing a small repair, or worse, a large one. Here’s what can cause your cold air to lose its cool.

The lack of precious cold air could be caused by:

• A Freon leak caused by a failed o-ring, seal, hose or component
• A clogged expansion tube or refrigerant charging hose
• Failed compressor or compressor clutch
• Failed blower motor or blower motor resistor
• Damaged or failed condenser or evaporator
• Vacuum leaks
• Failed switch, fuse, relay, control module, blend door or solenoid

Leaks can be devastating. When an A/C system develops a leak, you have what’s called an “open system.” If you or your technician discovers the leak early, your repair will be less expensive. Unfortunately, if a leak has been affecting your cold air for a while, moisture will most likely have entered your A/C system and may have damaged other vital and expensive parts. Stay cool.

The A/C starts out cool then starts getting warm, what’s happening?

Well, like many complicated stories, there’s never one simple answer. A/C systems are a fickle breed. Your best bet is to have us inspect your system for any of the following listed symptoms.

From cold to hot and all the symptoms in between:

• The clogged expansion valve: The expansion valve distributes the proper amount of refrigerant to your evaporator. If the valve is blocked, the refrigerant can’t flow into the evaporator. With the valve clogged, the refrigerant will start to freeze the valve altogether if moisture is present.
• Faulty compressor clutch: If the clutch is not engaging with your compressor, than your compressor can’t maintain the correct pressure. Hot air will result.
• The blown fuse scenario: Fuses sometimes short out. If the fuse associated with your A/C system goes, the power to certain parts will stop.
• Leaks are an A/C system’s worst friend: Leaks are the result of damage or the presence of moisture. When moisture and refrigerant mix, nasty corrosive acids will eat away at seals and components, causing a leak.

What is the smelly, gym locker odor coming from my A/C vents?

Sounds like you have an odorific problem on your hands. There are a few issues that may be causing this smell.

Potential causes of nasty “gym locker” odors:

• Dirty and old air cabin filter.
• Moldy evaporator case. A problem for many vehicles when water sits in the evaporator case because the case’s drain is blocked. Mold will accumulate.

How do you test for an A/C system leak?

While we’re no C.S.I. unit, the ways to detect an A/C system leak are not far off from an episode of the ever popular investigation show.

Detecting leaks:

• Black light enabled dyes. You read that right. A lot of refrigerants are pre-mixed with a special U.V. dye that shows up under black light. We’ll run a black light over your A/C system to see if any dye shows up.
• Bring in the “sniffer.” A sniffer is a special device that hones in on the refrigerant’s chemical components. If there’s a leak, our sniffer will sniff it out.

What causes an A/C system leak?

Age and moisture. Plain and simple. Rubber seals and hoses can also lose their elasticity over time and breakdown allowing Freon to escape and moisture to enter your vehicle’s A/C system. Moisture is the kiss of death for your A/C system, mixing with refrigerant and creating a system destroying corrosive acid.

Quick fact: If moisture is present, it could damage your accumulator, receiver or drier. Remember, these devices are responsible for removing moisture from the A/C system and will eventually stop functioning once they are exposed to an open system (leak or crack).

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How to Remove Windshield &Auto Glass

Sometimes it is best to R & R (remove and replace) glass for a repair. This article will demonstrate how to remove a windshield, quarter glass and instructions for other automative glass, whether you need to repair or replace it. One of the limitations of refinishing around glass openings is achieving a good masking of the weatherstripping without the tell-tale line of paint where the masking tape covers the weatherstrip. When doing a total restoration of an older car (such as a Ford Mustang), the only way to achieve a perfect paint job around the glass openings is to remove the glass.

Glass Definitions

First, let’s clear up the words. The front glass is called the "windshield" here in the USA (the British call it the "windscreen"). The rear glass is not called the "rear windshield". It is called the "back light".

Then there is the "door glass" for windows that retract into the doors. Lastly, there is the "quarter glass" as found on 2-door coupes. Quarter glasses can either retract like door glass or open outwards at the rear by means of front hinges. They can also be stationary (like in a Volkswagen Beetle).

Two Ways To Mount Automotive Glass

Other than mounting quarter glass with screws (such as in the Honda Civics and Accords), there are two ways glass is usually mounted in the vehicle.

Windshields, back lights and quarter glasses are mounted to the body shell to a mating flange where the inner and outer body panels are welded together.
One way the glass is mounted is with rubber weatherstripping to hold the glass in place.

Weatherstripping sometimes comes with strips of metal trim which is inserted after the glass and weatherstrip is installed. Sometimes these trim pieces actually wedge the glass and weatherstrip to help hold them into place.


The other way is where a water-tight adhesive is used to glue the glass in place. This adhesive takes the place of overlap both the body panels and the glass. In this case the glass contributes to the overall structural integrity of the car. In most modern unibody cars this is the usual method of mounting glass.

Replacing Automotive Glass Using Adhesive

Once the body panels have been refinished, replacing glass held in place with adhesive is a straightforward process. First, fit the glass to the opening to make sure there is a perfect fit. If necessary, continue with sheet metal straightening before refinishing the panels until the glass fits perfectly. Obtain a caulking gun and a tube of windshield adhesive (such as one manufactured by 3M) obtainable at your local refinish supply house.

Make sure that both the glass and the body panels have been thoroughly cleaned to remove all contaminants and old adhesive so a perfect water-tight seal is attained. Apply the adhesive to the mating flange on the body panel evenly so there is an unbroken bead all the way around the glass opening.

Carefully place the glass onto the opening and press it down so the bead of adhesive spreads slightly. Make sure to allow room for the trim pieces. There are spacers designed for this purpose which can be obtained. Let the adhesive set for the recommended time. Then reinstall the trim pieces.

Remove Quarter Glass

Removing and replacing glass held in place by weatherstripping is a little more straightforward. Let’s use an example of a quarter glass first. Quarter glass can easily be removed by one person without breaking.

From the inside of the car and using the thumbs and forefingers, start by gently working out the lip of the weatherstrip on a corner of the quarter glass. Proceed from this corner around the quarter glass gradually working out the lip while gently pushing the quarter glass outward. Work all the way around the quarter glass in this manner to first loosen the lip of the weatherstripping.

Finish Removing Quarter Glass

Select a rounded corner of the quarter glass as a candidate for pushing the glass and weatherstrip out and push out this corner to dislodge the weatherstrip from the sheet metal mating flange.

If the glass doesn’t dislodge without flexing, you have to work the lip out more before pushing. Don’t force it or you will break the glass.

Once you have worked a corner completely out, it is easy to finish the job. Gradually pull the lip of the weatherstrip away from the mating flange from both directions of the pushed-out corner. The glass will come completely out with the weatherstrip attached to it.

Remove Windshield

Removing the windshield is a little trickier than quarter glass. First, it’s bigger and it is usually curved. Second, sometimes this requires an assistant to help. Start by removing any trim pieces on the weatherstrip that may be wedging the weatherstrip in place. Also remove any interior trim from around the glass. Start by loosening the lip of the weatherstripping all the way around from the inside of the car as with the quarter glass.

You will be using your feet to dislodge the glass. Adjust the front seats and assume the position shown in the diagram. You will be pushing both top corners at the same time. If you have used enough silicone lubricant and loosened the weatherstrip enough, the top two corners will pop out.

Car Repair Question: Noise Diagnosis for Axle Shaft Bearings

Rear Axle Shaft Bearings

Luckily diagnosing axle shaft bearings does not come up very often, because the sounds they make can be mistaken for other drive train problems..

Even a noisy tire with choppy tread can be mistaken for a defective bearing. This article talks about rear axles, seals and bearings. Not to be confused with a standard hub wheel bearing that a rim and tire attach to.

Generally speaking front wheel drive vehicles have rear sealed hub bearings. they often contain ABS wheel speed sensors and can be expensive.

Rear wheel drive vehicles with pumpkin style differentials and solid axles have axle bearings. They are inexpensive but labor intensive to replace and diagnose.

Many vehicles go to the junkyard with the original axle shafts and bearings. If the rear differential is serviced properly and the fluid level is maintained, this will in turn lubricate the bearing.

Periodic inspection of your rear differential and checking fluid level is a good maintenance routine to get into and can save you a lot of trouble as the automobile ages.

Some of the key areas that fluid can leak from are the rear differential pinion seal as well as the axle seals.

When axle seals begin to leak the heavy gear oil can be dispersed onto your rear brake shoes or pads and rotors or drums. This can reduce braking efficiency as well as create noise and possibly a burning odor.

Types of Axle Shaft Bearings

There are three major bearing designs used in cars and trucks. There is a ball type, straight roller and a tapered roller style.

Regardless of the type utilized the main function is to support the vehicle’s weight, reduce rolling friction by allowing the wheel to spin freely.

A visual inspection of the bearing in most cases is not possible until you slide the axle out of the differential housing. In some cases its obvious how the axle is held into the differential housing.

In many Ford applications you will see bolts that hold a flange against the differential tube. Removing these bolts allows the axle to slide out. On GM vehicles it is more common to have the shaft retained in the differential carrier.

On these types of set ups you have to remove the differential cover then remove the pinion shaft. Next push the axles towards the center to reveal and remove a C clip retainer.

With the C shaped clips removed they will easily slide out of the differential housing. When replacement is needed, often the axle bearings are pressed onto the shaft using special equipment and holding fixtures.

Many auto parts stores will provide this service for free if the replacement parts are purchased at the store. You should also replace the axle seals at the same time. The parts store shouldn’t let you walk out the door without new seals.

Diagnosing Bearing Failure

With the axles removed as described above you can perform a visual inspection of the shaft bearings and look for scoring, burn marks or even pitting or chips on the individual rollers.

Most often when lack of lubrication causes bearing failure you can actually see heat damage in the form of bluish or purple marks on the rollers.

When it comes to diagnosing defective parts in any drive-train system a good diagnostic road test should be performed before dis-assembly occurs.

This can often point you towards a suspect part. It may also eliminate other items that can be mistaken for axle shaft bearing noise. Bad axle bearings often make a growling or rumbling sound at highway speeds.

Changing lanes may cause the noisy bearing to either increase or decrease the noise level. An example is if you are in the center lane and you move to the left lane.

Additional weight is put on the right rear. An increase of noise from the right rear during that lane change may indicate an inspection of the right side is necessary.

These types of lane changes and diagnostic methods should only be used in a safe manner. Preferably on a quiet road way with no other traffic around you.

Making drastic lane changes could be considered reckless driving and an accident is highly possible. It wouldn’t make any sense to wreck a perfectly good vehicle just to find out what bearing is noisy.

HOW TO FIX BLACK SMOKE?

HOW TO FIX BLACK SMOKE?
Begin with the vehicle on level ground, parking brake set while wearing protective eye wear and glove

Step 1 - If the check engine light has illuminated the PCM has detected a malfunction that could be causing the black smoke such as a shorted fuel injector

Step 2 - When a fuel pressure regulator fails it allows raw fuel to enter the engine producing black smoke.

Step 3 - A stuck or shorted fuel injector can allow too much fuel to enter the engine.

Step 4 - Occasionally a computer can malfunction holding the injector drivers open longer than it should, causing an excess of fuel producing the black smoke.

Step 5 - A bad computer system ground can lead to a malfunction that can include allowing too much fuel to enter the engine producing black smoke, inspect wiring harness grounds at the battery and engine.

Step 6 - On older engine's inspect under the hood for vacuum leaks which can cause the computer to malfunction creating black smoke.

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HOW TO FIND A VACUUM LEAK?

Easy step by step guide on how to detect and fix an automotive engine vacuum leak, this information pertains to most vehicles.

Begin with the engine cool on level ground with the emergency brake set, also wear protective eye wear, gloves and clothing. Carburetor cleaner is flammable so use caution when testing, have a fire extinguisher ready. (Note: Never spray exhaust manifolds.)

Step 1 - Inspect vacuum hoses for dilapidation or cracks, this will cause the engine to stall, idle poorly and hurt gas mileage.

Step 2 - Vacuum lines can become hard due to under hood temperatures which produce an unwanted vacuum leak.

Step 3 - After removing the old vacuum line and check for blockage, install a new replacement hose, this can be done by using vacuum or fuel hose.

Step 4 - If after inspection, no broken vacuum lines are found carburetor cleaner can be used to further inspect for leaks.

Step 5 - After starting the engine and allowing it to idle, spray the cleaner near and around the throttle bore gasket, if the gasket has failed the engine will react to the spray by increasing the engine idle speed as the cleaner is burned. If the engine is idling rough it will temporarily smooth out as the cleaner is consumed

Step 6 - Continue testing by spraying around the intake manifold plenum and base gaskets while observing engine speed, if the gasket has failed the engine speed will increase.

Step 7 - Moving on to external components such as EVAP control solenoids, valves and connections while still observing engine speed.

Step 8 - A large amount of vacuum is used to work the brake booster and can allow major leaks, spray around the booster while observing engine speed. Also, an audible hissing noise can sometimes be heard coming from around the brake pedal when the brakes are applied which also indicates the booster has failed. An alternative method of a vacuum leak inspection is to pinch a supply line to the accessory and observe engine speed, an increase indicates a leak.

Step 9 - Check small vacuum tubes for cracks and broken pieces, these tubes provide vacuum to many accessories such as the heater/air conditioner, leaks under the dashboard near the heater plenum can also occur.

Step 10 - Use a small piece of vacuum line to act as a connector which will repair the issue and return the heater/defroster/air conditioner to it proper operation.

Step 11 - A vacuum gauge or tester can be used to check an external system for additional leakage. This is done by disconnecting the vacuum tube from the vacuum source (engine) and attaching it to the tester. Pump the tester and observe the vacuum, it should hold vacuum if the system is working properly. (Note: A small amount of seepage is normal.)

How to replace a clutch?

This will show you a typical clutch replacement and help you with the little nuances which will give you the best result. A clutch is constructed using asbestos so use a mask before removing the clutch disc. Gloves and protective eyewear are a good idea as well. There will be several subsequent guides that will need to be performed before the clutch can be replaced which are listed below:
Jack up and support the car on jack stands
Remove the exhaust system (some models)
Remove the driveshaft (rear wheel drive)
Remove CV axle (front wheel drive)
Manual transmission removal
1. Remove the Clutch: Once the above jobs have been done it's time to inspect and remove the clutch pressure plate. The picture below shows what it looks like once the transmission has been removed which exposes the clutch assembly that is mounted onto the flywheel at the rear of the engine. Again this part deals with asbestos so an air mask is recommended.

The pressure plate will be held onto the flywheel by 10 12mm, 13mm or 14mm bolts in most cases. When you start to undo the bolts the flywheel will want to move and turn the engine over so you will need to break the bolts loose by applying leverage inward or outward from the flywheel. An impact gun also works well for this. Do not remove all of the bolts at once because the pressure plate traps the clutch disc which can be heavy and can fall causing an injury. As the last bolts are undone have an extra hand to control both the pressure plate and disc. The pressure plate will start to move outward from the flywheel as the the bolts are undone.
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While the last bolts are being removed keep your hands on the disc and plate to control these parts. Support the disc while using a finger which is a good method of holding the disc onto the pressure plate.

Once the bolts have been removed the pressure plate may still be held onto the flywheel with 3 or more alignment dowels. Gently work the pressure plate from the flywheel using a standard screwdriver until free.

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2. Inspect Clutch Wear: The clutch disc is the part that wears down much like a brake pad, in fact the clutch disc has brake pad material on either side of it which is held on by rivets. When this lining wears it allows the rivets to contact the flywheel or pressure plate which causes the clutch to slip.

3. Check the Flywheel: The clutch mating surface of the flywheel will now be exposed. You are looking for extreme heat checks, hot spots and cracks which are a sign the clutch was slipping for a long period of time and will warrant the flywheel's replacement. The flywheel below is what a the typical wear pattern looks like during a clutch replacement and can be re-machined which must be done anytime you are servicing the clutch. If this step is skipped when the new clutch is installed you will have a good chance that it will chatter when the clutch pedal is released and the job will need to be redone.

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4. Replace Pilot Bearing: On rear wheel drive and some front wheel drive cars the clutch will have a pilot bearing which is designed to support the input shaft of the stick shift transmission. If this bearing locks up or becomes worn out it allows the input shaft to wonder and will cause the clutch to not disengage. The pilot bearing should be replaced during the clutch service.

5. Match the New Clutch: Place the old clutch next to the new clutch on a table. Check the diameter of the disc and the surface area of the clutch material. Also look at the pressure plate height with one next to the other, they should be fairly close. This will present a problem if they are way off in the operation of the clutch, either not releasing or engaging.

Before re-installing the clutch disc back onto the flywheel fit the disc over the input shaft of the transmission. It should slide onto the shaft with little resistance. This is too help avoid a problem when reinstalling the transmission.
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6. Install the New Clutch: This part is very important! The clutch disc can go onto the pressure plate in either direction but only one direction is correct. The part of the disc that is protruding outward must go toward the pressure plate or the clutch will not release so it's important to install the disc in the proper direction. Also it is important to use brake cleaner to remove grease and dirt from the flywheel and pressure plate clutch contact surfaces before installation.

Gently install the new clutch disc and pressure plate onto the alignment dowels of the newly resurfaced flywheel while installing the mounting bolts by hand. Leave the pressure plate bolts a little lose so the pressure plate can move around. This is so you can insert the clutch alignment tool included in the clutch kit.

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Locate the clutch alignment tool included in the clutch replacement kit. This is needed to line up the clutch disc to the pilot bearing so the transmission can be easily reinstalled.

With the clutch disc loose position and install the clutch alignment tool into the clutch disc and pilot bearing. Slightly tighten the bolts further to hold the disc in place and move the tool in a circular motion. It will give some resistance in all directions and you want to find a good center point. This means the disc is in the middle of the pressure plate.

Tighten the pressure plate evenly and slowly in a star pattern using a ratchet. Do not tighten any one bolt all at once and do not use air tools. This will bend the pressure plate and cause the clutch not to disengage. Work your way around the pressure plate slowly tightening several times until completely tight. You will notice the fingers of the pressure plate traveling inward as you tighten the bolts. You want this progression to be as even as possible. If this step is not done correctly the clutch will not release properly which can cause hard shifting. Finish tightening the bolts to factory torque specifications which is usually between 25 and 30 foot pounds. Again the flywheel will try and turn the engine over so tighten inward.
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Remove the clutch alignment tool and recheck all of the mounting bolts.
 
7. Replace Throughout Bearing: The throwout bearing is designed to push the fingers of the pressure plate inward to disengage the clutch. When these fingers are out or with no pressure on them the clutch is engaged. When replacing the clutch assembly it is highly advised to replace the throwout bearing because it has a high failure rate. Some throwout bearings are attached to the clutch slave cylinder which should be replaced as a unit.

8. Clutch Break-in and Adjustment: Once the transmission has been reinstalled slowly pump the clutch pedal until normal pedal operation is present. Watch and add clutch fluid (brake fluid) in the process. After the repair start the engine and push the clutch pedal down completely while shifting the transmission through its gears. It's normal for this operation to be a little rough while the clutch is in it's "break in" period. Normal shifting characteristics should return after a few miles.