what is types of spring for your vehicle?

As you drive your car, the wheels and tires come intact with varying types of terrain, including speed bumps, rough patches, potholes and over highway hazards. The up and down motion from this can be highly disruptive to your driving experience but fortunately, modern automobiles are outfitted with springs, which absorb much of this motion and keep your ride as smooth as possible.

These springs are vital to your vehicle’s suspension. As such, if you are doing any kind of work on your suspension, it pays to know how these springs work. It's worth noting that there are different types of springs found within suspensions.Take a moment to familiarize yourself with these four classes of springs—coil springs, leaf springs, coil over springs, and lowering springs.

Coil Springs

Coil springs are the easiest to visualize. They look basically like the typical coiled/spherical springs you’ve seen elsewhere. You’ll find coiled springs most often in older cars and in heavier trucks, specifically on the front suspension between the upper and lower control arms. These springs can carry some really heavy loads, but they don’t necessarily provide the smoothest ride quality, which is why you won’t find them as often in newer, smaller vehicles.

Leaf Springs

Here’s another type of spring that you’re most often going to find primarily in trucks and in older vehicles. These springs actually look like long strips of metal, bowed to allow some rebound. Depending on the load size the vehicle is meant to carry, these springs may be layered. They are found mostly toward the rear of the vehicle, and, again, offer a ride with a fair amount of bounce to it, hence their not being as common in newer or smaller vehicles.

Coil Over Springs

Sitting over a strut carriage, the coiled over spring is probably the best way to get a great performance but also good ride quality. This is highly advanced spring technology, and you’ll find it at the front of almost every new car; for performance vehicles, you’ll find a coil over spring at the front and the back. You may even get a specialty wrench with your vehicle, making it easy to adjust your coil over spring.
 
Lowered Springs

Finally, we come to some aftermarket spring options. The lowering spring lowers the vehicle’s center of gravity and alters the spring rate. These changes can enhance the vehicle’s performance, but can also compromise the quality of the ride and make for a truly difficult and bouncy driving experience. You’ll definitely want to speak with a suspension expert before you make this aftermarket change to your vehicle.

Of course, as with any part of your vehicle, your springs may occasionally require some maintenance. If you notice any problems with your ride quality, make sure to take your vehicle in for an inspection by a suspension care expert.

DNT Tools

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What to Do When Your Car Won't Start?

What Does It Mean When Your Car Won't Start

If your vehicle won't start then there is a chance that you would just need a jump start, but before you try that you should verify that your "security" light is not flashing. If it is then your problem probably does not have anything to do with the battery or starter, it is most likely because your security system is not letting it start.

If this is the case then you need to read your owners manual to see how to fix this or contact your dealer. Since all makes and models are different there is no universal way to turn off the security system. If the security light is NOT flashing then you need to start checking the other things that can cause a no start.

To troubleshoot, repair and maintain your vehicle, you'll need diagnostic and repair information that is specific to your car or truck. With full manuals for over 30,000 vehicles online, you will find an exact match for your vehicle's year, make and model.

Besides being cheaper than a factory manual, they also offer step by step repair instructions and detailed diagrams beyond what is found in most printed manuals

What to Do If Your Car Won't Turn Over

If your car will not turn over (make noise and do what it usually does right before it starts) then there are several things to check.

The first thing to check is your battery. There are several ways to do this. The best way is to have it load tested. Most auto parts stores and many repair shops will do this for free. This test is the MOST reliable test to see if your battery is good or not.

If you can't or don't want to do this test, you can try turning on all your accessories (heater, radio, lights, etc.). After they are all on, go out and see how bright the lights are. If they are dim this tells you that the battery is probably not as strong as it should be.

Another good test requires a multimeter (also called a DVOM). These are cheap (under $20) and you can use it to run lots of diagnostics on your car.

After you have your meter, check the battery voltage to see how many volts it has with none of your accessories on and your key off. It should have a MINIMUM OF 12.4 VOLTS. Many people think that a fully charged battery should have 12 volts, but a fully charged battery should actually have approximately 12.6 volts.

The battery is the most common cause if your car won't start. The next most common cause is the battery cables not being tight or they are too corroded. This is an easy thing to check...just try to wiggle them. If they move, then they are too loose. Also look for white or blue buildup on the connections. This is an indication that the cables are corroded.

If your battery is good, the next most common cause if your car won't start is the starter. Many times when the starter starts going out you will hear clicking noises from your engine compartment and sometimes it will take more than one try to get your car to start. If your battery is bad it can cause these same symptoms as well so be sure to check your battery FIRST.

The best way to test your starter (If you have already tested your battery) is to put the multimeter leads on your battery and have someone try to start the vehicle. Read the voltage at this time. If the voltage drops below 9.6 volts then it is likely that your starter is faulty.

If you are having starting problems it is possible that your ignition switch is going bad, but it is very unlikely as they do not go bad very often. This can be diagnosed fairly quickly at most good auto repair shops, but is more difficult for the home mechanic.

What to Do If Your Car Turns Over But Won't Start

If your car DOES turn over but your car won't start then everything gets harder. The reason for this is that there are WAY more things that can cause a no start when the car will turn over but not start. The most common causes for this type of problem are:

Fuel pressure, camshaft sensor, crankshaft sensor, ignition problems, etc.

Testing these components can get very technical so my recommendation is to take your car to a good repair shop. Many times people just start replacing parts, and end up spending a lot more money that it would have taken them to just take it to a professional to have it diagnosed.

If your car will crank (turn over) but not start then it COULD be just a sensor problem. The camshaft sensor or crankshaft sensor. These sensors give the computer the information it needs to calculate ignition timing, the amount of fuel needed, etc. so if these sensors are not working it can cause your car not to start.

If your car won't start it is VERY UNLIKELY that there is any major damage. It is possible that there is internal engine damage, but it is very rare. If you suspect that there is you should take your car to a reputable repair shop to have it diagnosed because you want to BE SURE that there is damage before you have to spend a lot of money to have it fixed.

DNT Tools edited

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How to repair Car Air Conditioning?

What is “Black Death”?

While Black Death is not the same as the deadly plague during the 14th century, a car A/C system experiencing Black Death will be infected like the plague. Black Death starts out inside the compressor after refrigerant breaks down. Since refrigerant acts as a working fluid much like how motor oil is the fluid which provides lubrication to protect the engine, a refrigerant breakdown will result in ugly wear, starting in the compressor. From there, the sharp and grimy metal particles created during compressor breakdown can then travel through the rest of your A/C system, wreaking havoc on the entire system. Before you know it, all cold air, and airflow for that matter, will be long gone. Cue the A/C grim reaper

Why does my A/C have weak airflow?

We feel your pain and discomfort caused by weak airflow. The sweat alone is enough to drive any of us crazy. However, there are a lot of factors at play. If you notice reduced airflow early on –rather than later– take the right step and have it looked at before other fatal A/C system damage can occur.

Main causes of weak airflow:

• Mold or mildew may have accumulated in the evaporator core from residual moisture that occurs during the cooling process. When this happens, air will have trouble reaching your air vents.
• A hose has come loose. This usually happens with the blower hose that supplies air to the blower unit.
• Ventilation fan is fried. If the fan’s not blowing, air won’t be flowing very well.
• Seals. No, not those seals down by the pier. Core case seals, blower house seals or evaporator core case seals; All can open up and diminish air flow. A/C ventilation systems are very sensitive and must remain sealed. Once they’re opened, the whole system is compromised..

Are there any system warning lights to alert me to an A/C problem?

Typically, no, but some vehicles have Driver Information Centers (DIC) that may display the status of many vehicle systems. Refer to your Owner’s Manual for more information.

My A/C isn’t as cold as it used to be, what’s going on?

There are several reasons an A/C system can lose its cool. Bring your ride to us as soon as you start noticing this symptom, it could mean the difference between needing a small repair, or worse, a large one. Here’s what can cause your cold air to lose its cool.

The lack of precious cold air could be caused by:

• A Freon leak caused by a failed o-ring, seal, hose or component
• A clogged expansion tube or refrigerant charging hose
• Failed compressor or compressor clutch
• Failed blower motor or blower motor resistor
• Damaged or failed condenser or evaporator
• Vacuum leaks
• Failed switch, fuse, relay, control module, blend door or solenoid

Leaks can be devastating. When an A/C system develops a leak, you have what’s called an “open system.” If you or your technician discovers the leak early, your repair will be less expensive. Unfortunately, if a leak has been affecting your cold air for a while, moisture will most likely have entered your A/C system and may have damaged other vital and expensive parts. Stay cool.

The A/C starts out cool then starts getting warm, what’s happening?

Well, like many complicated stories, there’s never one simple answer. A/C systems are a fickle breed. Your best bet is to have us inspect your system for any of the following listed symptoms.

From cold to hot and all the symptoms in between:

• The clogged expansion valve: The expansion valve distributes the proper amount of refrigerant to your evaporator. If the valve is blocked, the refrigerant can’t flow into the evaporator. With the valve clogged, the refrigerant will start to freeze the valve altogether if moisture is present.
• Faulty compressor clutch: If the clutch is not engaging with your compressor, than your compressor can’t maintain the correct pressure. Hot air will result.
• The blown fuse scenario: Fuses sometimes short out. If the fuse associated with your A/C system goes, the power to certain parts will stop.
• Leaks are an A/C system’s worst friend: Leaks are the result of damage or the presence of moisture. When moisture and refrigerant mix, nasty corrosive acids will eat away at seals and components, causing a leak.

What is the smelly, gym locker odor coming from my A/C vents?

Sounds like you have an odorific problem on your hands. There are a few issues that may be causing this smell.

Potential causes of nasty “gym locker” odors:

• Dirty and old air cabin filter.
• Moldy evaporator case. A problem for many vehicles when water sits in the evaporator case because the case’s drain is blocked. Mold will accumulate.

How do you test for an A/C system leak?

While we’re no C.S.I. unit, the ways to detect an A/C system leak are not far off from an episode of the ever popular investigation show.

Detecting leaks:

• Black light enabled dyes. You read that right. A lot of refrigerants are pre-mixed with a special U.V. dye that shows up under black light. We’ll run a black light over your A/C system to see if any dye shows up.
• Bring in the “sniffer.” A sniffer is a special device that hones in on the refrigerant’s chemical components. If there’s a leak, our sniffer will sniff it out.

What causes an A/C system leak?

Age and moisture. Plain and simple. Rubber seals and hoses can also lose their elasticity over time and breakdown allowing Freon to escape and moisture to enter your vehicle’s A/C system. Moisture is the kiss of death for your A/C system, mixing with refrigerant and creating a system destroying corrosive acid.

Quick fact: If moisture is present, it could damage your accumulator, receiver or drier. Remember, these devices are responsible for removing moisture from the A/C system and will eventually stop functioning once they are exposed to an open system (leak or crack).

edited by DNT Tools

How to Remove Windshield &Auto Glass

Sometimes it is best to R & R (remove and replace) glass for a repair. This article will demonstrate how to remove a windshield, quarter glass and instructions for other automative glass, whether you need to repair or replace it. One of the limitations of refinishing around glass openings is achieving a good masking of the weatherstripping without the tell-tale line of paint where the masking tape covers the weatherstrip. When doing a total restoration of an older car (such as a Ford Mustang), the only way to achieve a perfect paint job around the glass openings is to remove the glass.

Glass Definitions

First, let’s clear up the words. The front glass is called the "windshield" here in the USA (the British call it the "windscreen"). The rear glass is not called the "rear windshield". It is called the "back light".

Then there is the "door glass" for windows that retract into the doors. Lastly, there is the "quarter glass" as found on 2-door coupes. Quarter glasses can either retract like door glass or open outwards at the rear by means of front hinges. They can also be stationary (like in a Volkswagen Beetle).

Two Ways To Mount Automotive Glass

Other than mounting quarter glass with screws (such as in the Honda Civics and Accords), there are two ways glass is usually mounted in the vehicle.

Windshields, back lights and quarter glasses are mounted to the body shell to a mating flange where the inner and outer body panels are welded together.
One way the glass is mounted is with rubber weatherstripping to hold the glass in place.

Weatherstripping sometimes comes with strips of metal trim which is inserted after the glass and weatherstrip is installed. Sometimes these trim pieces actually wedge the glass and weatherstrip to help hold them into place.


The other way is where a water-tight adhesive is used to glue the glass in place. This adhesive takes the place of overlap both the body panels and the glass. In this case the glass contributes to the overall structural integrity of the car. In most modern unibody cars this is the usual method of mounting glass.

Replacing Automotive Glass Using Adhesive

Once the body panels have been refinished, replacing glass held in place with adhesive is a straightforward process. First, fit the glass to the opening to make sure there is a perfect fit. If necessary, continue with sheet metal straightening before refinishing the panels until the glass fits perfectly. Obtain a caulking gun and a tube of windshield adhesive (such as one manufactured by 3M) obtainable at your local refinish supply house.

Make sure that both the glass and the body panels have been thoroughly cleaned to remove all contaminants and old adhesive so a perfect water-tight seal is attained. Apply the adhesive to the mating flange on the body panel evenly so there is an unbroken bead all the way around the glass opening.

Carefully place the glass onto the opening and press it down so the bead of adhesive spreads slightly. Make sure to allow room for the trim pieces. There are spacers designed for this purpose which can be obtained. Let the adhesive set for the recommended time. Then reinstall the trim pieces.

Remove Quarter Glass

Removing and replacing glass held in place by weatherstripping is a little more straightforward. Let’s use an example of a quarter glass first. Quarter glass can easily be removed by one person without breaking.

From the inside of the car and using the thumbs and forefingers, start by gently working out the lip of the weatherstrip on a corner of the quarter glass. Proceed from this corner around the quarter glass gradually working out the lip while gently pushing the quarter glass outward. Work all the way around the quarter glass in this manner to first loosen the lip of the weatherstripping.

Finish Removing Quarter Glass

Select a rounded corner of the quarter glass as a candidate for pushing the glass and weatherstrip out and push out this corner to dislodge the weatherstrip from the sheet metal mating flange.

If the glass doesn’t dislodge without flexing, you have to work the lip out more before pushing. Don’t force it or you will break the glass.

Once you have worked a corner completely out, it is easy to finish the job. Gradually pull the lip of the weatherstrip away from the mating flange from both directions of the pushed-out corner. The glass will come completely out with the weatherstrip attached to it.

Remove Windshield

Removing the windshield is a little trickier than quarter glass. First, it’s bigger and it is usually curved. Second, sometimes this requires an assistant to help. Start by removing any trim pieces on the weatherstrip that may be wedging the weatherstrip in place. Also remove any interior trim from around the glass. Start by loosening the lip of the weatherstripping all the way around from the inside of the car as with the quarter glass.

You will be using your feet to dislodge the glass. Adjust the front seats and assume the position shown in the diagram. You will be pushing both top corners at the same time. If you have used enough silicone lubricant and loosened the weatherstrip enough, the top two corners will pop out.