How to Replace an Outer Tie Rod End？DNT Tools

Always wear safety glasses when working on your vehicle. Wear other personal protective equipment (PPE) when necessary, for example latex gloves or closed toe shoes.



1.Secure the vehicle on a level surface, making sure the vehicle will not roll or lean too much when jacked up.

2.

3.Secure the vehicle with jack stands on both sides for safety before starting any work. Do not rely on the jack to hold the vehicle up while working.

4.Wiggle the wheel left and right while inspecting tie rod end.

5.Visually inspect the tie rod end boot.

6.Remove the front wheels by removing the lugs nuts that are holding them on. To do this you will need to find the correct size socket and large ratchet or tire iron and turn them counter clockwise.

7.Mark how far the tie rod is threaded into the adjusting sleeve. Loosen the nut and bolt on the adjusting sleeve.

8.Remove the cotter pin from the tie rod end castle nut.

9.Remove the tie rod end castle nut.

10.Separate the tie rod end from the steering knuckle by using a ball joint puller tool.

11.Unthread the tie rod end from the adjusting sleeve. Be sure to count the number of turns required to remove the tie rod end.

12.Thread the new tie rod end into the adjusting sleeve the same amount of turns as the original.

13.Insert the tie rod end into the steering knuckle.

14.Torque the castle nut to manufacturer's specifications.

15.Insert a new cotter pin. Be sure to bend one leg of the pin over the castle nut to properly secure.

16.Mount wheels and torque lug nuts to manufacturer's specifications in a star (criss-cross) pattern.

17.Have a certified technician perform a wheel alignment to insure proper tire wear and vehicle tracking.

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How to Pull And Install Harmonic Balancer .

When you want to replace your harmonic balancer, huh? There's good news and bad news. First, the good news: Installing a new balancer is a relatively easy task. And now the bad news: Getting the old one off the crankshaft is not. It could involve taking apart some of your car's body parts, like the front fender or bumper and probably even the radiator.

First, you'll probably need to go out and buy a tool you might not have -- a harmonic balancer puller. That's a specialized tool that's used to safely remove harmonic balancers without damaging your vehicle, and it also works on things like gear pulleys and steering wheels. Search around to find the right puller for your needs. They're usually around $25 or so.

Every engine is different, so if you want to change the harmonic balancer on your car, you'll need to search around various car forums and Web sites to see how it's done on your specific model. Generally, you'll want to remove the belt from the crankshaft pulley and then take the harmonic balancer mounting bolt off with a socket and ratchet. From there, you'll use the puller tool you just bought to take the balancer itself off the crankshaft .

As far as reinstalling the new harmonic balancer goes, it's pretty much the same steps in reverse. Just be sure to compare the old part and the new part to make sure the bolt hole locations are the same. And don't forget to pay close attention to the proper torque settings, too. If you can start your engine and the vibrations don't jar your tooth fillings loose, you've done the job correctly.

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What does a harmonic balancer do?DNT Tools

A harmonic balancer sounds like a crucial part on a spaceship in some pulpy 1950s sci-fi story, or something you need so you can play music with hobos when you're ridin' the rails. However, it's actually an important part on your engine that helps your crankshaft last as long as possible.

As the cylinders in your engine fire, they move up and down, generating torque that's transferred into the crankshaft. As you may already know, the crankshaft is what converts the engine's power into rotational movement, eventually turning the wheels of the car.

But consider for a second the forces that are acting on the crankshaft -- they're tremendous. Each time a cylinder fires, a force acts upon the crankshaft, causing it to twist. But this force also causes vibrations in the crankshaft, and at certain frequencies, the shaft can resonate, which makes the vibrations even worse .

These vibrations from the engine can become too much for the crankshaft to bear, causing it to fail. And when that happens, your car won't run and you'll be facing some expensive repairs.

This is where the harmonic balancer comes in. The circular device, made of rubber and metal, is bolted at the front end of the crankshaft to help absorb vibrations. It's usually connected to the crank pulley, which drives accessories like the air conditioner. The rubber inside the pulley is what actually absorbs the vibrations and keeps them at a safe level. In essence, the device is designed to help prevent crankshaft failure. It's also sometimes called a "dampener."
However, the rubber material can deteriorate over time. So if your harmonic balancer is going bad, you could get rough engine vibrations, a cracked crankshaft, or even a serpentine belt that gets thrown off its track. Replacing one is excellent preventative maintenance, and that's exactly what we'll talk about next.

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Anyone can done,6 DIY Automotive Repairs

No.1  Replace Fuel Filter

Cost: $10 to $30

Fuel filters are recommended to be replaced at regular intervals, which generally can range anywhere from 10,000 miles and up. A dirty filter left overtime will reduce your vehicle's reliability and efficiency, so it is important to try to keep up with this maintenance schedule as much as possible. The steps are as simple as disconnecting the battery, releasing the fuel line pressure (especially important for fuel injected vehicles), disconnect fuel line from filter, remove old filter, replace washers, install new filter, double check previous steps, then start vehicle and look for any leaks. Check with your local government to see if they have a fuel filter recycling program available, so you can properly dispose of your old filter.

No.2   Replace Brakes Pads

Cost:Typically under $25 for each brake pad

Changing brake pads is one of the most common and important maintenance servicing schedules you should adhere to. Worn brakes can get very costly when you allow them to become so thin, they damage other parts of the system. Your stopping ability will be compromised, which not only compromises the safety of your own vehicle, but the safety of others around you. What you will need in tools is a car jack, lug nut wrench, socket set, and a c-clamp. In case your wondering, there is a green option for brake pads, although it may not be available just yet. Check with your local government pages to see if they have a used brake pad recycling program available for disposal of your old.

No.3  Replace Spark Plugs

Cost:$15 and up

Another important maintenance job to keep your vehicle running mean and green is to change your spark plugs regularly. What happens over time is the metal on the electrodes can wear away and become coated with carbon deposits. This will effect the ability of the plug to ignite the fuel/air mixture and therefore reduce your overall vehicles efficiency. In general most experts will tell you that most specialty plugs are not worth their price as far as fulfilling their promised power increase and/or fuel savings. There are a number of them out there, such as the E3 and Halo plug. If in doubt, just use the same plugs that originally came with the vehicle. Installation is as simple as removing the ignition wires from the old spark plugs, removing plugs with a socket wrench, installing new plugs, then coating the inside of the ignition wire boots with a little dielectric grease for a good seal before snapping them onto the new plugs.

No.4   Windshield Repair

Cost: $5

Not that I want to put all those windshield replacement or repair shops out of business, but repairing a windshield with a do-it-yourself home kit can be a very easy and effective process. It is important to note that star chips with minimal to no cracks is the best candidate for this repair. To accomplish this project, all you need is a do-it-yourself windshield repair kit from an auto parts store or equivalent. Clean a 12 inch square area around the damage with a glass cleaner, then take a razor blade and smooth out the surface of all defects, making sure to pick out any loose pieces of glass found inside the chip. Most kits will have a plunger apparatus to inject the adhesive into the windshield, then all you have to do is allow the tool to do the rest of the work. One bit of advice is not to perform this project in the hot sun, as the adhesive will try too quickly to leave a clear finish.

No.5  Power Steering Flush

Cost: $5 and up

A mechanic can do this job for you for upwards of $30 to $100, but you can do this in the convenience of your own garage with a turkey baster. Yes, I said a turkey baster. The idea behind this is to work out as much of the old oil power steering fluid out of the system and replace it with new stuff. The process should replace 90 percent of the old fluid and you wont have to detach one hose or crawl around on the ground. What you do is take the turkey baster and siphon as much of the old fluid as you can from the fill canister located inside the engine compartment. Place the old fluid in a plastic container that can be safely transported to an oil recycling facility. Pour in the new fluid, start the vehicle, and work the steering wheel back and forth. Turn the ignition off, let the engine cool a bit, then do the entire process over again. Follow these steps three or four times, or until the fluid appears clear.

No.6   Transmission Fluid Replacement

Cost: $30 and up

This project often goes by another name at the mechanics shop, Transmission flush. A flush is a new method of taking clean fluid and flushing it through the automatic transmission, thereby effectively pushing out all the old contaminated oil from the system. However, many mechanics say that this is not always a good thing and can lead to transmission problems. The old way to replace transmission fluid is effective, fairly straight forward, and a heck of a lot less expensive. You'll need to get your vehicle in the air using a jack and a couple of jack stands, then climb under the vehicle and remove the pan bolts to the transmission. Use a large plastic container with a lid to dump the old fluid in, so you can easily transport it to your local oil recycling facility. Don't forget to replace the transmission fluid filter while you are inside the transmission and clean the inside of the transmission pan. It is also important not to over tighten the bolts when reinstalling the pan or it will cause leaks.

How to remove an automotive airbag from the steering wheel?

Begin with the vehicle on level ground in park with the emergency brake set, engine "OFF".

WARNING! USE CAUTION WHEN WORKING WITH AN AIRBAG TO AVOID INJURY.

Step 1 - Start by turning the ignition switch to the "ON" position.

Turn Ignition Switch "ON"

Step 2 - Grasp the steering wheel and turn it 90°, this will help access the bolts located behind the wheel in later steps.

Turn Steering Wheel

Step 3 -  Remove the negative battery cable to help prevent electrical short circuits and accidentally deploying the airbag while the job is being done.

Remove Negative Battery Cable

Step 4 - After battery is disconnected for 5 minutes, begin by locating the rear airbag mounting bolts.

Steering Wheel Access Hole

Step 5 - After locating the access hole loosen the mounting bolt which will release one side of the airbag, for some applications the bolts will be retained in the wheel. (Note: Some manufacturer's have slots which give access to a retainer clip or ring which requires releasing.)

Loosen Airbag Mounting Bolt

Step 6 - Locate and loosen or remove the opposing airbag mounting bolt

Loosen Airbag Mounting Bolt

Step 7 - Grasp the airbag firmly while gently pulling it from the steering wheel.

Pop Airbag Loose

Step 8 - The airbag will now be loose. (Note: Wiring harness connector for horn and airbag deployment controls will still be attached.)

Airbag Loose

Step 9 - Once the airbag is loose from the steering wheel, locate the airbag deployment wiring connectors, the yellow connector is the first stage while the green connector is the second stage, the horn pad connector is black

Airbag Wiring Harness Connectors

Step 10 - Using a small pick or screwdriver, release the horn pad connector.

Release Horn Pad Connector

Step 11 - Airbag safety connectors can have one or more safety clips or operations to remove the connector.

Airbag Safety Clips

Step 12 - Use a small pick or screwdriver to release the primary safety clip. (Note: Release methods may vary.)

Release Airbag Safety Clip

Step 13 - Once primary safety clips have been released, gently pull up on the secondary clip. (Note: Release methods may vary.)

Release Secondary Safety Clip

Step 14 - Grasp the clip once released to remove it from the connector.

Secondary Safety Clip

Step 15 - While pulling up slightly, use a small pick to release the clip on each side of the connector.

Release Airbag Mounting Clip

Step 16 - Once the connector has been removed, inspect it for damage and corrosion.

Airbag Electrical Connector Released

Step 17 - After removing the electrical connectors inspect the airbag/control switches and horn pad for damage. (Note: If replacing the airbag match it to the old unit.)

Airbag Removed

Step 18 - Once repairs or replacement have been made, gently re-insert the electrical connectors.

Insert Airbag Electrical Connector

Step 19 - Re-insert the electrical connector safety clips and slide the secondary clip holder into place.

Re-inserting Airbag Safety Clips

Step 20 - Gently grasp the horn electrical connector and re-insert.

Re-insert Horn Electrical Connector

Step 21 - Once all electrical connectors and their safety clips have been re-installed, gently insert the airbag into position.

re-insert Airbag

Step 23 - Without tightening, thread one of the mounting bolts, this will help the installation of the opposing mounting bolt.

Thread Airbag Mounting Bolt

Step 24 - Thread and tighten the remaining mounting bolt, then finish tightening the opposing bolt.

Tighten Airbag Mounting Bolts

Step 25 - After the repair is complete, turn the ignition key to the "ON" position and start the engine and straighten the wheel, the airbag warning light should be "OFF".

Straighten Steering Wheel

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How to Use Ball Joint Press?

The suspension system of a car, which must be kept in top condition, is comprised of two parts: shock absorbers and ball joints. Shock absorbers absorb the bumps in the road. When they wear out, the car bounces excessively. The ball joints keep the car driving in a straight line. If they are worn out, the car will begin to wander while driving and could cause you to lose control. In addition, worn ball joints can cause excessive wear on the tires . It is when replacing ball joints that the use of a ball joint press comes in very handy. Here's how to use a ball joint press.
Lift up the front end of the vehicle using a car jack.
Remove the front wheels.
Detach the brake caliper.
Slide off the rotor. You will need to detach the tie-rod end and the lower strut bolts. This will allow enough movement to move the steering knuckle.
Remove the upper control arm by removing the cotter pin that keeps it in place. You are now ready to remove the ball joint using the ball joint press.
Place the ball joint press over the ball joint on the control arm. The long threaded shaft of the press should be facing upward.
Place the deep cup of the ball joint press, which is designed to contain the ball joint, over the top of the ball joint.
Tighten the threaded shaft on the ball joint press with a ratchet and socket. This will pop the ball joint out of the control arm. You're now ready to put in the new ball joint.
Mount the deep cup of the ball joint press on the new ball joint.
Tighten the threaded shaft and put the new ball joint into place.
Check that the joints are going in straight after every few turns of the press .

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How to check your car's engine oil?

How to check your car's engine oil?
-----A one-minute investment can keep your car healthy and running smoothly.


Think of motor oil as the life’s blood of your car’s engine. Checking it on a regular basis is a key part of keeping your engine running well and getting the most miles out of it. The oil lubricates the engine’s internal moving parts, keeping them from wearing too quickly. It also helps keep the engine clean, by preventing dirt buildup, and helps keep it from overheating.

Checking the oil level is a quick, easy job that we recommend you do at every other gas fill-up. All you’ll need is a rag or paper towel, and your car’s owner’s manual if you have questions.

1.Engine oil, check!
First, make sure the car is parked on level ground and, with most cars, the engine is cold, so you don’t burn yourself on a hot engine part. With some cars, the automaker recommends that the oil be checked after the engine has been warmed up. With the engine off, open the car’s hood and find the dipstick. Pull the dipstick out from the engine and wipe any oil off from its end. Then insert the dipstick back into its tube and push it all the way back in.

Pull it back out, and this time look at both sides of the dipstick to see where the oil is on the end. Every dipstick has some way of indicating the proper oil level, whether it be two two pinholes, the letters L and H (low and high), the words MIN and MAX, or simply an area of crosshatching. Refer to the owner’s manual, if necessary. If the top of the oil “streak” is between the two marks or within the crosshatched area, the level is fine.

But if the oil is below the minimum mark, you need to add oil as described below.

Also, check the oil’s color. If it’s brown or black, that’s fine. But if it has a light, milky appearance, this could mean coolant is leaking into the engine. Look closely for any metal particles, too, as this could mean there is internal engine damage. If you see either of these conditions, get the car to a mechanic for further diagnosis. If you suspect a coolant leak, have the car towed.

If everything’s okay, wipe off the dipstick again and insert it back into its tube, making sure it’s fully seated. Close the hood and you’re done.

2.How to add oil
Use the grade of oil recommended in the owner’s manual. It will usually have a designation such as 5W 30 or 10W 40. You can buy it by the quart at any service station or auto-parts store, as well as in many supermarkets and discount retailers.

To add oil, remove the oil filler cap, usually located on top of the engine. Since over-filling with oil is bad for the engine, you should add oil a little at a time. Start by adding about half a quart. Using a funnel helps avoid spills. Wait a minute or so and check the dipstick again. If the level is still below or near the minimum mark, add the rest of the quart. Unless your engine is leaking or burning oil (or if you haven’t checked it in awhile) you will rarely need to add more than a quart. However, if a second quart is needed, add that in slowly as well, checking as you go.

Screw the oil filler cap back on securely, and you’re done.

How to use Fuel Line Disconnect Tools and Work With Late-Model Quick-Disconnect Fuel Lines?

Before disconnecting the fuel line, you should follow the approved Holden technique of depressurising the fuel system.

Depressurisation Overview:


Remove fuel pump relay from underbonnet relay centre (located on drivers side of engine bay)

Crank engine and let run until it stops

Crank a further two to three times.

This will take out any pressure in the fuel line and stop you from possibly getting a face full of petrol when you disconnect the coupling

This is the proper tool set:

You get multiple sizes, but you only need one.

So. Step one is to get the appropriate size clip.

Then you want to put the tool over the solid part of the fuel line.

You want the smaller part of the tool to be able to go under the collar of the connector.

There are 4 prongs inside the connector, which is what you're disengaging when you use the clip. To disengage them, push the tool into the connector and wiggle the hose until you feel the clips disengage.

You may need to push the fuel hose towards the connector while pushing the connector in, depends on the firmness of the clips.

How Often Should You Rotate Your Tires?

A good time to rotate your tires is when you get the oil changed, assuming you do that at least once a year and more often if you drive, say, more than 10,000 miles annually.

Most vehicle manufacturers recommend that the tires be rotated on the same schedule as oil changes. In most cases that means every 7,500 miles or six months, though some have stretched the oil-change interval to 10,000 miles, such as on many Fords, Volkswagens and Toyotas. BMW allows up to 15,000 miles between oil changes, but that is too long to wait to rotate the tires.

Unless you drive fewer than about 7,500 miles per year, you should probably rotate tires every six months or so.

The tires mounted on the drive wheels of any vehicle perform extra duty because they apply the power to the pavement. On front-wheel-drive vehicles that is amplified by the weight of the engine and transmission, and because the front tires do most of the work in turns. Rotating the tires between front and rear a couple of times a year spreads out the burden so they wear evenly. Automakers that offer all-wheel-drive cars also recommend rotating tires. Subaru, for example, says to do it every 7,500 miles or 7.5 months, whichever comes first.

There are exceptions to these examples, particularly with performance models that may have different schedules for tire rotation. We suggest you follow the recommended schedule outlined in your owner's manual, but rotate the tires (and change the oil) at least once a year.

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How do you know when to replace your shocks?

What we call shock absorbers are really "dampers." The springs in a vehicle's suspension absorb bumps and other road shocks by compressing, and the shock absorbers control the amount of bouncing created when the springs rebound.

Several warning signs can tell you when shock absorbers need replacing, such as your car bottoms out over railroad tracks, speed bumps or dips in the road or keeps bouncing well after the fact. Other signs are unusual noises over bumps, excessive body lean in turns or that the front end of the car dives sharply in hard braking. Because shocks wear out gradually, you might get used to a looser, bouncier ride, much like you get used to longer stopping distances as brake pads wear out.

One way to test shocks is to push down hard on each corner of a vehicle. If the car continues to bounce after you let go, your shocks need replacing. However, this test may require quite a bit of strength, and with many high-riding SUVs and pickups it isn't easy to get the leverage you need.

Instead, you should have a qualified mechanic check your shock absorbers when your car is on a lift, such as when you have tires rotated. The mechanic will be able to see if there are major leaks (shock absorbers are filled with fluid), worn mounts or bushings, or physical damage such as dents.

Despite advice to replace shocks at specific intervals (often from those who sell replacements), such as every 50,000 miles, when you need to do it can vary by vehicle and how and where you drive. If you frequently drive over rough, pockmarked roads that put more stress on the shock absorbers, then you will probably need to replace them more often than if you drive mainly on smooth pavement. Carrying heavy loads also will wear out shocks faster.

How to Store Your Car for Winter？

From washing and waxing to detailing the interior, people baby their cars in all sorts of ways. But it's equally important to take care of your car before you put it into storage. Here are a few tips to make sure your car is ready to go when you are.

The Final Detail

Thoroughly clean your car, inside and out, before storage. The last thing you want to do is put a car cover on a dirty car. Give your ride a good hand wash, polish up that chrome and apply a coat of wax to the paint. Make sure to get rid of any tree-sap drops, too.

If there are unpainted metal places under your car that are prone to rust, buy a can of rubberized undercoating and spray on a protective coat, keeping in mind that it needs to be reapplied yearly. Be careful not to spray this coating near any exhaust components that can get hot because products like this can be very flammable. For collectors, if you're worried about keeping your car in original condition, a coat of WD-40 will also work. You can also stuff a sock in the exhaust pipe so that small animals won't find a new place to set up camp, but be sure to remove it before you start the car again.

Throw out food wrappers, soda cans and any other trash that may have accumulated in the cabin. If you plan on steam-cleaning the carpet, do that far enough in advance (or after) storing the car to avoid moisture buildup and mold. For added interior protection, you can buy a set of seat covers. To soak up cabin moisture, purchase a few packs of desiccant from your local dollar store or convenience store to place on the floor.

Mice and other small animals can create trouble if they get inside your car. Even though there isn't a surefire way to protect your car from mice, there are steps you can take to make your car less appealing to them. "I usually go to the dollar store and buy the cheapest drier sheets I can find, and put those inside my vehicles," said Davin Reckow, claims parts specialist for Hagerty Collector Car Insurance. You can also place mothballs in socks and set them both inside and around the car, but you'll probably need to air out the cabin to get rid of that distinctive smell. Mousetraps work well outside the car, but never put them in your car. The last thing you want to find is a dead mouse on your passenger seat, especially months later. If you are storing your car in your own garage at home, remember that pest poison traps can be hazardous to your pets.

Check tires and inflate tires to a higher pressure

Tires

It's worthwhile to inflate your tires to a higher air pressure before storing your car because tires can slowly lose pressure over time and with temperature changes. However, don't exceed the tire's maximum air pressure, which is listed on the side of the tire, and be sure to fill all four tires to the correct air pressure when you take your car out of storage. If you already know one of your tires has a leak, replace it because it will deflate completely over time, and your car could end up kneeling on its rim.

Don't engage the parking brake for storage as it can become "frozen" and difficult to disengage. If you're worried about your car rolling, get some wheel chocks or blocks of wood to wedge against the tires.

For the more mechanically inclined and for owners of collectible cars, you can put your car on jack stands to take the weight off the tires and suspension. By doing this, you can avoid getting flat areas on your older tires and wheels. Procedures for doing this vary greatly from car to car, so if you're unfamiliar with the proper and safe way to raise your car, consult with someone who knows. In all instances, be sure the floor of your storage site is completely flat and made of concrete before undertaking this.

Fluids and Power

It's a good idea to use fuel stabilizer. Why? Reckow said most ethanol-blended fuels have a shelf life of only about three months. If you're storing a car for six months, fuel stabilizer should help prevent corrosion in the fuel lines and engine. Add fuel stabilizer to a nearly full gas tank.

It's also a good idea to change your car's oil and oil filter and check and top-up all other fluid levels before storing your car. If you live in a colder climate, make sure your car has enough antifreeze. Once you've topped off the fluids and added fuel stabilizer, take your car out for one last ride to circulate the new fluids.

Your car battery should be either removed and stored, or connected to a trickle charger or battery tender. You can get one for less than $50. Make sure your battery tender or charger has a float mode or automatic shutoff feature so the battery doesn't get overcharged. You can run the battery tender's cables up through the underside of the engine bay so that you can keep the hood closed and your car cover in place.

If you want to remove the battery but still have it on a battery tender, set it on a piece of wood in your garage and attach it to the tender. Make sure not to lose track of the two battery bolts. Keeping your car's battery charged prolongs the life of the battery, and you don't have to wonder whether your car will start.

You can also remove the battery and store it in a warm room in your home. Keep in mind that cold batteries can freeze and may crack.

change car's oil and oil filters

Car Cover

Invest in a quality car cover. If you store your car outside, make sure that cover is waterproof and is securely attached to your car so that high winds don't blow it off. Universal and custom-fit car covers are available at online retailers and at auto parts stores. There is a big difference between a $25 universal-fit car cover and a $300 high-quality model-specific cover. Your best bet is to get one that's breathable and keeps out moisture. Never cover your car with a plastic tarp as it will severely scratch the paint.

A basic car cover is worthwhile if you store your car inside because it can protect your car's freshly waxed exterior from accumulating dust and dirt. In addition, Reckow said, a thicker car cover provides a layer of protective padding for your car's exterior in case you bump it while you move items around in your garage.

It's easier to have another set of hands available when putting a cover on your car; it also eliminates the risk of having the cover touch the ground, picking up grit. However, before you put the cover on, make sure all the windows and doors are fully closed and that valuables and necessities are out of the passenger compartment. You don't want to open a covered, storage-ready car just to get your cell phone's car charger. If you have a fixed antenna, you'll also want to remove it before covering up. You can put the antenna in your trunk or on the floor by the passenger seat so it's readily available for reinstallation.

In addition to a car cover, consider a car jacket. Just drive your car onto the jacket, put a soft car cover on it (this is a must) and zip up the outer plastic jacket. This solution provides protection from moisture, rust, rodents and dust. "I once stored a '66 Chevelle convertible, stripped of paint, right on a lakefront in Michigan,” Reckow said. "After one winter, there was not a lick of surface rust.” Make sure your car is completely dry and cool before putting any kind of cover on it.

Starting It Up

A common discussion among people who store cars is whether or not to start it every so often. "If you do a proper job storing a car, you don't need to start it," Reckow said. "But if you want to start it up, just remember what you have to remove and put back on." In other words, don't start your car with those socks still stuffed in the exhaust or the battery tender's cables in the engine bay. Completely remove the car cover, too; don't just peel it back enough to get in the driver's door. Never let a car run with its car cover on — or with the garage door closed.

Once your car is started, let it warm up to its operating temperature to remove any condensation and cycle the fresh oil through the engine to lubricate the parts a bit. Then, don't forget to redo the steps needed to return your car to its storage state.

DIY How to Change a Headlight

Changing the Headlight in a Newer Model Vehicle

In the old days, replacing a headlight seemed to be as complicated as a root canal. The lamp had to be completely removed. Today, cars and trucks come with headlight bulbs that plug into the back of the headlight lens housing. If your headlight goes out, replacing the bulb is simple and takes very little time--but it is a critical part of car maintenance and your safety.


What Type of Bulb?

First, find out what type of bulb you need. It may be listed in the owner's manual for your vehicle.

If you cannot locate the correct bulb information, ask the service clerk at the auto parts store. They have reference material and can find this information for you quickly.

Tools to Change a Newer Headlight Bulb

You'll need a few supplies in order to change a single or both headlights on your vehicle. Remember, if you are using a different type bulb for a burned-out headlight, you must place that same type bulb in the working headlight.

Here's what you need:

• The correct bulb for your vehicle's make, model and year.
• Service manual for your vehicle's make, model and year.
• Any tools required, as indicated in the service manual.

Changing the Newer Vehicle Headlight Bulb

Follow these steps to change the headlight bulb on your vehicle:

1. Open the engine compartment hood.
2. Locate the back of the headlight to determine the lamp and bulb type.
3. Decide which bulb you need to replace.
4. Purchase the correct bulb for your headlamp.
5. Follow the directions in the service manual for the correct way to replace the bulb.

Changing the Headlight in an Older Model Vehicle

Older models are a bit trickier. First find the part number, which can usually be found as a raised impression on the front of the glass covering the headlamp. If it's not there, check the service manual, the owner's manual, or with the auto parts shop to buy the correct headlight.


Tools to Change an Older Headlight

To change out the whole headlight in an older vehicle:

• Correct lamp for the vehicle's make and model.
• Screwdriver to disconnect the frame holding the lamp in the bracket.

Changing the Older Vehicle Headlight

Follow these steps to change the headlight bulb on an older vehicle:

1. Remove the screws that connect the headlamp frame to the bracket holding the headlamp. Make certain you turn only the screws that hold the lamp frame, not the adjusting screws.
2. Disconnect the electrical connector in the back of the lamp by pulling the socket away from the headlamp with your hand.
3. Remove the headlight from the bracelet area and discard it.
4. Replace with the new headlight, making sure that it is positioned right side up.
5. Plug the wire socket into the new headlight, which holding the headlight securely.
6. Replace the headlight into the frame.
7. Place the frame onto the headlight bracket.
8. Reattach the screws to hold the frame and bracket in place.
9. Do not adjust the setting screws for the direction the headlight shines.

If you suspect that the positioning of your new headlight may have been disturbed while you changed it, have it checked before you drive at night. Otherwise, you are ready to go.

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DIY How To Replace Spark Plugs

If opening your car's glove compartment rates as your high water mark for mechanical achievement, this article is for you. In it you'll learn how to change your car's spark plugs--necessary as part of regular car maintenance. And while it won't elevate you to mechanical high priest status, it will provide you with a heady sense of engine-intrepidity and save you cash on maintenance costs.

Once you know what to do and what to look for, changing your spark plugs will seem as easy as changing a flat or replacing an air filter. Depending on your vehicle and experience, this task may take you no longer than 40-60 minutes.


Needed Tools
Before you can begin any task, you must have the necessary tools. Otherwise, you'll spend more time hunting for what you need than you'll spend actually changing your spark plugs.

You may need:

• 3/8 inch ratchet
• Ratchet extensions
• Spark plug socket
• Spark plug gap gauge
• 3/8 inch swivel socket
• Compressed air canister

Step-by-Step Procedures

1. Before you begin grabbing, pulling, and ratcheting, make sure that the engine is cold and that you have the correct spark plugs for your vehicle. Installing incorrect plugs can corrupt the engine. Ask your auto supply store for the correct application or check your car owner manual.
2. Disconnect the spark plug wire from the plug. Do not yank by the wire like you're extracting carrots from a garden, but by tugging on the boot. If the boot resists, try twisting left and right to loosen. Be sure to change each plug one at a time, especially if this is your first spark plug venture; otherwise you risk trying to guess which plug matches with which wire.
3. Before removing the plug, put on eye protection and clean the spark plug area with the compressed air canister. This will prevent any dirt from falling into the cylinder when the spark plug is detached. Dirt to an engine is the equivalent of a cold germ to a human.
4. Using the spark plug ratchet, begin unscrewing the plug by turning counterclockwise. Once the plug is loose enough, finish by removing it by hand.
5. Before inserting the new spark plug into the valve, use the gap gauge to calculate a proper gap. Consult your vehicle's user manual or the specifications decal under the hood for your car's exact gap size. Creating the correct gap is very important. A gap that is too small or too wide will fleece your engine of power and fuel efficiency.
6. To gap your plug, insert the gauge in between the bottom of the plug (inner electrode) and the hook (outer electrode), which resembles a small awning. Depending on your vehicle's specifications you will then either need to bend the hook lower or higher.
7. Before inserting the new spark plug, double-check that the cylinder's threads are free of dirt. Otherwise the spark plug will not insert properly. If you feel ambitious lubricate the threads with a never-seize compound so as to assure easy removal next time it comes to switching the plugs.
8. Begin screwing in the spark plug by hand until it's firmly secure. Finish tightening with the ratchet.
9. Reattach the plug wire, using a twisting motion to properly position the boot above the plug. When you hear a click you'll know the wire has precisely connected with the spark plug.
10. Repeat these same steps with the other spark plugs, replacing each plug one at a time.

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DIY How To Replace Your Windshield Wipers

Although we swear to ourselves not to wait until the next hurricane, rain storm, or blizzard to realize we need new wipers, we usually do. Inevitably, we're just trying to get home from a long day at the office when a sudden downpour starts; we fire up the wipers and they can't clear the water.

There we are squinting through the blurry windshield trying to make out the radar blip of distant taillights, cursing ourselves for not changing the wipers the last time we said we were going to.

If you get your oil changed regularly, you're probably in good shape. Service stations check the wipers for you.

But, if you're a do-it-yourselfer, then you just might let the wipers deteriorate to rubber bits until the day you need them.



To prevent this frustration, the next time you're at a gas station or auto parts store, pick up a couple of replacements to have on hand. Depending on what part of the county you are in, the rubber wiper portions generally only last six months to one year.

And just because you live in a region country where it barely drips rain, do not be misled into thinking your wipers are immortal. They aren't. The sun is bakes and cracks them into oblivion. Plus, if you use your wipers to constantly clear road gunk from the windshield, those bits of debris that are seeming tossed to the wayside slowly eat away at the wipers.

If you do have a pair of wipers handy, they are easy to change. You can opt to switch out only the rubber portion of the blade that squeegees the windshield, but in most cases you'll change the whole blade. The entire gadget consists of an arm and a blade. The blade directly attaches to the arm, and is comprised of a mount and the metal-covered-by-rubber slab.

Before you purchase refill blades or replacement rubber strips, either check the length with a tape measure or look in the manual for the proper size (usually they range from 16-21 inches). Also, your local auto parts store should have manuals that match up every car ever manufactured with a correct replacement.

Signs You Need to Replace Your Wipers

• Windshield streaking
• Windshield smearing
• Wiper screeching
• Wiper is brittle with rubber flaking off at the touch
• Wiper is frayed

Tools for the Change

• Screwdriver
• Tape measure
• Needle-nose pliers

Three Types of Wiper-Arm Mounts

Hook Slot Connector―This type of blade is the easiest to change. Bring the arm to a right angle and search out the flap that attaches the wiper in the slot. Either push it in or unlatch it. One way or the other will release the blade and allow you to pull it out. If it poses any difficulty, tug it with pliers. Insert the new wiper and slide it along the slot until you feel or hear it snap into place.

Pin Type Arm― Basically uses the same concept of the hook-slot arm, except you will see a pin rather than a tab. Press on the pin from behind the blade or lift the pin out (most likely will entail the use of a screwdriver). Jiggle the blade until it fully releases. Lock the new blade into the pins.

Straight-End Connector―Changing this type can be a drag, because it tends to be more difficult. If there is a notch or tab that secures the blade, you only need to release it using your screwdriver. Pull the blade out and install the new one by sliding it in and locking it.

This is the simplified version. The other involves having to deal with screws the size of ants that hold the blade in. Take out the screws to remove the old blade and install the new one. Note that the screws are fragile so take it easy when securing them.

Now that your new wiper blades are in place, you should be able to have a clear view of the road ahead―regardless of the weather.

DIY How to Replace Fuel Hoses?

Fuel hoses rarely need to be changed, but if yours leaks or was damaged while changing a fuel filter, you'll need to make this repair.

NOTE: Because replacing a fuel hose can be quite dangerous, this is a fix better left to an experienced mechanic--this is not considered routine car maintenance.

Safety First

Since dealing with fuel lines could end in a giant fireball, follow all gasoline safety precautions. Don't smoke, make sure there's plenty of ventilation, and properly dispose of all gasoline-soaked rags, old parts, hoses, and any other items contaminated by gasoline. Keep a current and charged fire extinguisher handy, and do not forget to disconnect the vehicle's battery before you begin.


What You'll Need

It's important to use the correct tools for the job. Using the wrong tool, or using the right in the wrong way, may cause sparking. So make sure you've got correct tools before you start.

• The service manual for your vehicle year, make, and model.
• A dozen or so clean, dry shop rags to catch excess fuel.
• Screwdriver or other tool as required to remove the hose clamps.
• Pair of regular pliers.
• Standard razor knife with blade-locking capability.
• Fuel filter for you vehicle's make and model.

Don't worry if you if you can't figure out the diameter of the fuel line, because the auto parts store can look it up.

You must always replace the fuel filter on your vehicle if you will be changing the fuel hose.

Remove the Old Fuel Line

Once you have all your tools and new parts at the ready, you can begin the process of replacing your fuel hose.

1. Locate the fuse box and remove the fuel pump fuse.
2. Start the engine and run it until it stops.
3. Remove the fuel filter and trace the fuel line to the transfer unit.
4. Remove the air cleaner if you are changing the hose leading from the fuel filter to the carburetor.
5. Put rags under the end of the hose where the gasoline will come out.
6. Loosen the metal hose clamps just until the clamp slides back over the bump that is close to the end of the line.
7. Place a rag over the end of the hose as you remove it from the filter.
8. If the hose sticks and is difficult to remove, use the pliers to grip and turn the hose.
9. If the hose still does not come away easily, use the razor knife to split the hose along the direction of the line.
10. Have the shop rags ready, because the fuel in the line will begin to drain once the hose has been removed.
11. Remove the fuel line from the steel tube at the fuel block. Twist it a bit if it is stuck.
12. After you remove the hose, clean off any dirt, hardened rubber, fuel, or other contaminants from the steel tube.
13. Place the old hose on your work bench to measure the new hose.

Attach the New Fuel Hose

Now that you've got the old hose removed, here's the steps you'll need to take:

1. Place the still-loose clamps over the new fuel hose.
2. Be sure the clamp screws face the correct direction for easy tightening.
3. Check the new fuel filter to be sure it faces the correct fuel-flow direction.
4. Place the hose ends on the steel tube and at the new fuel filter.
5. Check the new fuel line for fit. If there are any kinks in the hose, remove the hose and trim a bit from the ends.
6. Replace the clamps in the correct position and tighten the screws to hold them firmly in place.
7. Reattach the hose to the new fuel filter, and then tighten the clamp.
8. Reattach the vehicle's battery cables.
9. Dispose of gasoline soaked rags, the old fuel line, and any contaminated items properly.

That's it! You've just replaced your fuel line. May you have excellent gas mileage, perfect performance, and a great ride.

How To Replacing A Fuel Filter?

Is My Fuel Filter Clogged?

Is your car hemming and hawing more than a politician in the Iowa primaries? Does it hesitate, stall, or lag when you put the petal to the metal? If these symptoms are new, a clogged fuel filter is the likely culprit.

Fuel filters become obstructed due to dirt or rust in the fuel tank, and by debris from the normal deterioration of the fuel line. The fuel filter keeps contaminants out of your vehicle's engine.

All fuel filters need occasional changing as a part of regular car maintenance. Some cars tell you how often, but most don't. It needs to be replaced yearly, especially if your car's got a lot of miles; if you use cheap gas or gas with alcohol in it; drive on a lot of gravel; or do anything else that might help clog things up.

Nobody gets off easy. Even if you have a new car with a "lifetime" filter, it'll still need to be replaced once in a while, at least every 30,000 miles. Further, you can't tell from looking that a filter's clogged. Blow through it; if that's hard to do, then it needs to be replaced.

Safety Disclaimer

This article provides a basic description of the process of changing a fuel filter. It doesn't cover every kind of car or situation, so check out your vehicle's service manual.

First, fuel is flammable. Repeat: fuel is flammable. Take these precautions to prevent turning everybody into human charcoal:

Turn off the car before you work on the fuel system AND remove the fuel pump fuse or relay.
Smoking's extra life-threatening while working with fuel, so don't do it.
If you are working in an enclosed garage, make sure there is adequate ventilation.
Gasoline is a serious skin irritant; wear petroleum-resistant gloves, like like nitrile, while handing fuel or fuel lines.
Automotive fuel is also a known carcinogen, so avoid breathing fumes or prolonged exposure.
Clean up any spills immediately and dispose of any gasoline or fuel-soaked rags and the old fuel filter properly. Be sure to handle the old fuel filter carefully, as it will still contain a small amount of fuel.

Locating the Fuel Filter

Look at your manual to find your fuel filter, then get these things ready:

• Several clean, dry shop rags.
• Tools to change your specific fuel filter.
• Extra hose if your filter is of the type that utilizes standard rubber hose and screw clamps
• Correct fuel filter for your make and model vehicle.
• Petroleum-resistant gloves.
• Proper eye protection.

Changing the Fuel Filter

The first steps in replacing your fuel filter depend on the type of fuel pump. Determine whether your vehicle has an electric or non-electric fuel pump, then follow the directions below

Electric Fuel Pump

• Remove the fuel pump fuse or relay in the main fuse box.
• Start the engine and allow the motor to run until it stops by itself.
• Turn off the ignition and remove the key from the starter.

This drains the fuel in the line and relieves the higher fuel pressure in an electric fuel system. If the line is not drained, the pressurized fuel will spray into the engine compartment, creating a potential hazard.

Non-Electric Fuel Pump

For a non-electric fuel pump system, you will not be able to run out the fuel; however, the pressure in the fuel line will be much lower than that of an electric fuel pump system. Because you will not be able to run out the fuel, there will be a larger quantity of fuel spilled but, because it is not under as much pressure, it will be easier to contain. Just be sure to have your shop rags handy.

Out with the Old, In with the New

If the filter is underneath the vehicle, be sure to take proper precautions before going under the vehicle. Either use ramps approved for the weight of your vehicle, or use floor jacks and stands.

Always set the parking brake and use wheel chocks. Never get under a vehicle which is supported by jacks alone. Always use jack stands to support the vehicle.

Here are the steps to remove the old fuel filter and replace it with the new fuel filter:

• Place a shop rag under the existing fuel filter and disconnect the filter using the proper tools. Your filter may utilize a "quick connect" system. If you are unsure of the operation of this system, you should find out the proper way to remove the filter and if there are any special tools necessary.
• Remove the existing fuel filter as shown in the vehicle's service manual. Check the filter to make sure it is facing the right direction.
• If the existing fuel line hose is cracked, frayed, or if it is damaged when you remove the filter, replace it at this time using the extra hose you purchased with the filter.
• Once the new filter has been installed, replace and tighten the clamps, if present.
• If you have an electric fuel pump, re-install the pump fuse.
• Dispose of the old filter and rags appropriately. Do not leave the old filter or any gasoline-soaked rags out once you have reconnected the battery.
• Attempt to start the engine. It may take more that one try as the filter fills up with fuel.

Congratulations, you've just changed your fuel filter! Your vehicle's performance should increase substantially. However, if you continue to experience problems with acceleration, contact a professional mechanic.

DIY How To Replace A Fuel Filter?

Is My Fuel Filter Clogged?

Is your car hemming and hawing more than a politician in the Iowa primaries? Does it hesitate, stall, or lag when you put the petal to the metal? If these symptoms are new, a clogged fuel filter is the likely culprit.

Fuel filters become obstructed due to dirt or rust in the fuel tank, and by debris from the normal deterioration of the fuel line. The fuel filter keeps contaminants out of your vehicle's engine.

All fuel filters need occasional changing as a part of regular car maintenance. Some cars tell you how often, but most don't. It needs to be replaced yearly, especially if your car's got a lot of miles; if you use cheap gas or gas with alcohol in it; drive on a lot of gravel; or do anything else that might help clog things up.

Nobody gets off easy. Even if you have a new car with a "lifetime" filter, it'll still need to be replaced once in a while, at least every 30,000 miles. Further, you can't tell from looking that a filter's clogged. Blow through it; if that's hard to do, then it needs to be replaced.

Safety Disclaimer

This article provides a basic description of the process of changing a fuel filter. It doesn't cover every kind of car or situation, so check out your vehicle's service manual.

First, fuel is flammable. Repeat: fuel is flammable. Take these precautions to prevent turning everybody into human charcoal:

• Turn off the car before you work on the fuel system AND remove the fuel pump fuse or relay.
• Smoking's extra life-threatening while working with fuel, so don't do it.
• If you are working in an enclosed garage, make sure there is adequate ventilation.
• Gasoline is a serious skin irritant; wear petroleum-resistant gloves, like like nitrile, while handing fuel or fuel lines.
• Automotive fuel is also a known carcinogen, so avoid breathing fumes or prolonged exposure.
• Clean up any spills immediately and dispose of any gasoline or fuel-soaked rags and the old fuel filter properly. Be sure to handle the old fuel filter carefully, as it will still contain a small amount of fuel.

Locating the Fuel Filter

Look at your manual to find your fuel filter, then get these things ready:

• Several clean, dry shop rags.
• Tools to change your specific fuel filter.
• Extra hose if your filter is of the type that utilizes standard rubber hose and screw clamps
• Correct fuel filter for your make and model vehicle.
• Petroleum-resistant gloves.
• Proper eye protection.

Changing the Fuel Filter

The first steps in replacing your fuel filter depend on the type of fuel pump. Determine whether your vehicle has an electric or non-electric fuel pump, then follow the directions below

Electric Fuel Pump

• Remove the fuel pump fuse or relay in the main fuse box.
• Start the engine and allow the motor to run until it stops by itself.
• Turn off the ignition and remove the key from the starter.

This drains the fuel in the line and relieves the higher fuel pressure in an electric fuel system. If the line is not drained, the pressurized fuel will spray into the engine compartment, creating a potential hazard.

Non-Electric Fuel Pump

For a non-electric fuel pump system, you will not be able to run out the fuel; however, the pressure in the fuel line will be much lower than that of an electric fuel pump system. Because you will not be able to run out the fuel, there will be a larger quantity of fuel spilled but, because it is not under as much pressure, it will be easier to contain. Just be sure to have your shop rags handy.

Out with the Old, In with the New

If the filter is underneath the vehicle, be sure to take proper precautions before going under the vehicle. Either use ramps approved for the weight of your vehicle, or use floor jacks and stands.

Always set the parking brake and use wheel chocks. Never get under a vehicle which is supported by jacks alone. Always use jack stands to support the vehicle.

Here are the steps to remove the old fuel filter and replace it with the new fuel filter:

• Place a shop rag under the existing fuel filter and disconnect the filter using the proper tools. Your filter may utilize a "quick connect" system. If you are unsure of the operation of this system, you should find out the proper way to remove the filter and if there are any special tools necessary.
• Remove the existing fuel filter as shown in the vehicle's service manual. Check the filter to make sure it is facing the right direction.
• If the existing fuel line hose is cracked, frayed, or if it is damaged when you remove the filter, replace it at this time using the extra hose you purchased with the filter.
• Once the new filter has been installed, replace and tighten the clamps, if present.
• If you have an electric fuel pump, re-install the pump fuse.
• Dispose of the old filter and rags appropriately. Do not leave the old filter or any gasoline-soaked rags out once you have reconnected the battery.
• Attempt to start the engine. It may take more that one try as the filter fills up with fuel.

Congratulations, you've just changed your fuel filter! Your vehicle's performance should increase substantially. However, if you continue to experience problems with acceleration, contact a professional mechanic.  

How To Change a Tire?

Sooner or later, it's bound to happen to most everyone. You're driving along with your mind on the important meeting agenda, and suddenly your car pulls to one side and you hear that dreaded flapping sound of a flat tire.

Nowadays, many drivers have roadside assistance services that will come fix your flats, but it's always smart to know how to change a flat yourself. Since it's a fairly common occurrence, car manufacturers have tried to make the tire change process one that virtually anyone can do.


Before Starting Out

It's a good idea to get your car serviced before heading out on a road trip. Part of the checkup should include a look at the tires.

Look for any unevenly worn spots, or skimpy tread. If the tires are iffy, invest in new ones. You'll need them eventually anyway, and it's better to start out on a trip with new tires than have a blow-out in the middle of nowhere.

Even if you're not heading on a trip, you should familiarize yourself with the tools you'll use in the event of a flat tire. Most cars come equipped with a simple jack and lug wrench, as well as a spare tire. Check your owner's manual if you aren't sure how to access these items.

Pull out the jack and the tire, and make sure the tire is in good shape. If your spare is flat, get it fixed.

It only takes a few minutes to make sure you have all the tools, and you'll save yourself a big headache later if you find yourself on the side of the road with a flat.

Optional Items to Pack

Besides the crucial jack, wrench, and spare tire, you might also want to consider placing these tools in your trunk to make a tire change much easier and more comfortable:

Flashlight (with extra batteries).
Gloves.
Tarp or mat to kneel on.
Plastic rain poncho.
Fix-a-flat spray foam.
Tire gauge.
Tire blocks.


Changing a Flat Tire

Follow these simple steps to fix the problem and be on your way in no time:

1. Find a safe spot to pull over. If you're on the freeway, taking the next exit is the safest bet, even if you have to drive on a blown tire. Otherwise, pull as far onto the shoulder as possible. Don't park in the middle of a curve where approaching cars can't see you. Also, choose a flat spot; jacking up your car on a hill can be a disaster. If you have a manual transmission, leave your car in gear. Be sure to set your parking brake!
2. Turn on your hazard lights. Get the jack, wrench, and spare tire from the trunk of the car and bring them over to the tire that is flat. Use other tools or supplies, if needed.
3. Use the wrench to loosen the lug nuts. You may need to remove the hubcap. Don't remove the lug nuts at this point; simply loosen them by turning the wrench to the left (counter-clockwise). If the lug nuts are really tight, try placing the wrench on the nut and standing on the wrench arm to use your full weight on it. You can also try hitting the wrench arm with a rock.
4. Use the jack to lift the vehicle off the ground. Different car models may have different places to put the jack; consult your owner's manual for specific locations. Once the jack is securely in the correct spot, jack up the car until the tire is about 6 inches off the ground.
5. Remove the lug nuts and pull the tire off the car. Make sure to place the lug nuts in a pile that won't get scattered, and pull the tire straight toward yourself to remove it from the wheel base.
6. Place the spare on the car. Line up the lug nut posts with the holes in the spare, and push the spare all the way onto the wheel base until it can't go any farther.
7. Put on the lug nuts. Don't put them on tightly, just make sure they're on enough for the spare to stay on the car for a moment.
8. Lower the car back to the ground. Use the jack to bring the car back down to ground level. Remove the jack from underneath the car.
9. Make sure the lug nuts are tightened. With the car back on the ground, you can now tighten the lug nuts. Rather than tightening them one by one in order, start with one lug nut, tighten it about 50%, move to the opposite nut (across the circle) and tighten that one about the same amount. Keep tightening opposite lug nuts gradually in turn until each lug nut is as tight as it can be.
10. Put your flat tire and tools back in your trunk. Make sure you don't leave anything on the side of the road.

Quick Fixes

Once in a while, a tire isn't completely destroyed when it goes flat. If the flat is caused by a nail or other sharp object, and you can't or don't want to change your tire on the side of the road, you may be able to give yourself a few miles of leeway by using a flat-fix type spray.

Simply follow the manufacturer's directions. In ideal situations, the spray foam will allow you to at least find a close off-ramp and pull into a service station or a rest stop before you have to change your tire.