How To Change a Tire?

Sooner or later, it's bound to happen to most everyone. You're driving along with your mind on the important meeting agenda, and suddenly your car pulls to one side and you hear that dreaded flapping sound of a flat tire.

Nowadays, many drivers have roadside assistance services that will come fix your flats, but it's always smart to know how to change a flat yourself. Since it's a fairly common occurrence, car manufacturers have tried to make the tire change process one that virtually anyone can do.


Before Starting Out

It's a good idea to get your car serviced before heading out on a road trip. Part of the checkup should include a look at the tires.

Look for any unevenly worn spots, or skimpy tread. If the tires are iffy, invest in new ones. You'll need them eventually anyway, and it's better to start out on a trip with new tires than have a blow-out in the middle of nowhere.

Even if you're not heading on a trip, you should familiarize yourself with the tools you'll use in the event of a flat tire. Most cars come equipped with a simple jack and lug wrench, as well as a spare tire. Check your owner's manual if you aren't sure how to access these items.

Pull out the jack and the tire, and make sure the tire is in good shape. If your spare is flat, get it fixed.

It only takes a few minutes to make sure you have all the tools, and you'll save yourself a big headache later if you find yourself on the side of the road with a flat.

Optional Items to Pack

Besides the crucial jack, wrench, and spare tire, you might also want to consider placing these tools in your trunk to make a tire change much easier and more comfortable:

Flashlight (with extra batteries).
Gloves.
Tarp or mat to kneel on.
Plastic rain poncho.
Fix-a-flat spray foam.
Tire gauge.
Tire blocks.


Changing a Flat Tire

Follow these simple steps to fix the problem and be on your way in no time:

1. Find a safe spot to pull over. If you're on the freeway, taking the next exit is the safest bet, even if you have to drive on a blown tire. Otherwise, pull as far onto the shoulder as possible. Don't park in the middle of a curve where approaching cars can't see you. Also, choose a flat spot; jacking up your car on a hill can be a disaster. If you have a manual transmission, leave your car in gear. Be sure to set your parking brake!
2. Turn on your hazard lights. Get the jack, wrench, and spare tire from the trunk of the car and bring them over to the tire that is flat. Use other tools or supplies, if needed.
3. Use the wrench to loosen the lug nuts. You may need to remove the hubcap. Don't remove the lug nuts at this point; simply loosen them by turning the wrench to the left (counter-clockwise). If the lug nuts are really tight, try placing the wrench on the nut and standing on the wrench arm to use your full weight on it. You can also try hitting the wrench arm with a rock.
4. Use the jack to lift the vehicle off the ground. Different car models may have different places to put the jack; consult your owner's manual for specific locations. Once the jack is securely in the correct spot, jack up the car until the tire is about 6 inches off the ground.
5. Remove the lug nuts and pull the tire off the car. Make sure to place the lug nuts in a pile that won't get scattered, and pull the tire straight toward yourself to remove it from the wheel base.
6. Place the spare on the car. Line up the lug nut posts with the holes in the spare, and push the spare all the way onto the wheel base until it can't go any farther.
7. Put on the lug nuts. Don't put them on tightly, just make sure they're on enough for the spare to stay on the car for a moment.
8. Lower the car back to the ground. Use the jack to bring the car back down to ground level. Remove the jack from underneath the car.
9. Make sure the lug nuts are tightened. With the car back on the ground, you can now tighten the lug nuts. Rather than tightening them one by one in order, start with one lug nut, tighten it about 50%, move to the opposite nut (across the circle) and tighten that one about the same amount. Keep tightening opposite lug nuts gradually in turn until each lug nut is as tight as it can be.
10. Put your flat tire and tools back in your trunk. Make sure you don't leave anything on the side of the road.

Quick Fixes

Once in a while, a tire isn't completely destroyed when it goes flat. If the flat is caused by a nail or other sharp object, and you can't or don't want to change your tire on the side of the road, you may be able to give yourself a few miles of leeway by using a flat-fix type spray.

Simply follow the manufacturer's directions. In ideal situations, the spray foam will allow you to at least find a close off-ramp and pull into a service station or a rest stop before you have to change your tire.

Vehicle Maintenance:How To Change Your Oil?

 In this fast-paced world of endless work and little play, the last thing most people think about is crawling under the car and changing their vehicle's oil. After all, there are Grease Monkeys and Jiffy Lubes on just about every corner, not to mention all the garages and big-box chains who can do the job for you.

But if you're the do-it-yourself car maintenance type, you'll find the process takes only about 30 minutes, if you have all of the right tools. Of course, you may get grimy, so if you have an aversion to getting your hands dirty, head out to a garage. If you're ready to get under the car and take care of business, then read on.

When to Change the Oil

Check your vehicle owner's manual and see what the manufacturer recommends. Most will tell you to make the change once every 3,000 to 7,500 miles, so this is a pretty good leeway. Your dad may tell you something completely different. Then there is the opinion of the mechanic at the local garage, who will also throw out a number and then offer to change it for you each time. The general rule of thumb, especially if you want to keep your vehicle in tip-top condition, is to change the oil every 3,000 miles.

Tools for the Job

•     It's a dirty job, so dress in old clothes that you don't mind getting grubby.
•     Eye protection (safety glasses/goggles) and latex gloves.
•     Oil filter wrench for the size of your vehicles filter and a box end wrench for the size of your vehicles drain plug.
•     Rags.
•     A drain pan that holds at least 6 quarts.
•     Oil. Check your vehicle owner's manual for the engine oil capacity (with filter) and the proper viscosity. Follow any specifications for an API (American Petroleum Institute) certified symbol.
•     An automotive grade funnel.
•     If you have a low-riding vehicle or just prefer more space to maneuver, then you need a jack and jack stands, or drive-on ramps. However, most vehicles have enough of a gap to easily reach the oil pan. Some oil filters are accessed via the underside of the vehicle. In these cases, propping the vehicle may be a better option.

Changing the Oil

1.     Make sure your vehicle is parked on a flat surface and not at an angle.
2.     Run the engine for several minutes to heat the oil before draining. Shut off the engine before proce
3.     If using ramps, drive the vehicle onto the ramps. If using a jack and jack stands, raise the vehicle with the jack and lower it onto the stands. Never go under a vehicle unless it is supported by quality jack stands or drive-on ramps. Never go under a vehicle supported by drive-on ramps unless both of the non-ramped wheels (the ones which remain on the ground) are chocked. Blocks of wood of sufficient size suffice for this purpose; simply place them behind the tires. When using a jack, take care to lift the vehicle from a proper lifting point. If you're unsure where to place the jack, consider having just one more oil change done by a mechanic. When the vehicle is on the service hoist, ask if the mechanic would point out the proper lifting points on your vehicle.
4.     Always wear appropriate eye protection when working under the vehicle. Components under the vehicle will be hot. Use caution, especially when working near the exhaust system. The engine oil pan should be easy to identify. It's large and sags down a bit from the engine area. There will be a drain plug on the bottom edge.
5.     Once you find the engine oil pan and locate the drain plug, slip the drain pan below
6.     Unscrew the drain plug with the proper size box end wrench. (counter clockwise to loosen). The oil rushing from the drain most likely will drive the drain plug into the drain pan. Remember, the oil will be hot, so it is best to just let the bolt fall into the drain pan rather than try to yank it away once it comes free. This will save your hands from getting burned and gooey.
7.     It will take several minutes for the oil to drain., Retrieve the drain plug from the drain pan and inspect the drain plug washer. A metal drain plug washer that is no longer flat should be replaced. A rubber drain plug washer that is damaged or deteriorated should be replaced. Reinstall the drain plug into the oil pan. Do not over tighten.
8.     Find the oil filter. Adjust the drain pan to catch the oil that will fall from the filter once it's removed from the engine. Attach the filter wrench tightly around the filter and rotate counter clockwise to remove. You may find yourself in a battle trying to remove the filter and even crush the body. Simply make sure the wrench grip is solid and try for that first release. Once you achieve that, the filter should twist right off. The filter gasket should come off with the filter. If it didn't, remove the filter gasket from the filter mounting area. Wipe the filter mounting area with a clean rag.
9.     Set the old filter off to the side and swab the housing area with the rag until it's free of old oil.
10.     You're now ready to install the new filter. Coat the filter gasket with clean oil. Screw it in, taking caution not to go to the extreme when tightening. The tightening instructions will be printed on most filters. If not,a good rule to use is to rotate until gasket contacts mounting surface, then tighten an additional ½ turn.
11.     At this point, the hard part is over. Now locate the lubricant depository, usually marked by a cap noted appropriately: oil. Open it and pour in the required amount of oil. Replace the cap upon completion and wipe up any excess oil.
12.     Start the vehicle and do a quick check on all of the components to seek out any leaks. With the engine running, verify there is no engine oil leaking from the filter or from the drain plug. Shut off the engine and check engine oil level.
13.     Now you're ready to clean up. Used motor oil is classified as hazardous waste and must be disposed of in accordance with all applicable laws. Using a funnel, carefully pour the used oil from the drain pan into a leak proof container. Take the old oil to your local garage or auto parts store for disposal.

come from DNT Auto tools

How to Replace a BMW Camshaft Sensor

A camshaft position sensor on a BMW is a sensor that reads the position of the camshaft in relation to the engines timing and fuel delivery. There are two camshaft position sensors, one inlet and one exhaust, but the one that fails most commonly is the inlet sensor. If a camshaft sensor goes bad, it can result in erratic idling, as well as stalling. Fortunately, it is a relatively easy part to replace for even the relatively inexperienced home mechanic.

1.The sensor is located on the left side of the oil filter. Remove the air filter and air filter box.

2.Disconnect the wiring harness to the mass air flow sensor and the air box temperature sensor.

3.Remove the tube that leads to the idle control valve. 

4.Unscrew the 6-mm nut with a socket that holds the hose clamp that downstream of the mass airflow sensor. You should now be able to see the camshaft position sensor.

5.Remove the air intake silencer with a 10-mm socket. 

6.Using a 5-mm Allen key, remove the nut that holds the camshaft sensor in place. Remove the engine cover and disconnect the sensor electrical connection at the top of the motor. Clearance around the dipstick is tight, but it is possible to remove the connector.

7.Install the new camshaft sensor with an oiled O-ring. Ensure that the sensor seals properly, and then reassemble everything in the order of removal.

How to Use a Nut Splitter

Every mechanic has encountered the nut that just won't come undone. Whether it is from rust, heat or extreme vibration, the nut seems as if it has become a part of the car frame and is immovable. Before you reach for a saw or torch to try to cut it off (and cause damage to your frame), try a nut splitter. A nut splitter is a simple tool that comes in a variety of sizes. Better still, more often then not, you will be able to reuse the bolt once it is free.








Instructions

1.Identify the three main parts of the nut splitter. First is the tightening screw located at the end of the handle. The other main parts are located in the wider top part of the nut splitter. Inside the boxy shape is a molded point, or breaker point. Coming out of the handle and into the boxy part is a small metal push pad on a rod. This rod extends and retracts according to how the tightening screw is turned. You want to fit your nut between the breaking point and the push pad. Move the push pad away from the breaking point by turning the screw counter-clockwise.


2.Place the nut splitter around the nut. You want to pull the nut splitter so the breaking point is pressed against the nut. You also want to make sure that you have enough room to turn the tightening screw with a crescent wrench. Move the handle of the nut splitter until it is in a position where you can easily use the wrench on the screw.


3.Tighten the screw by turning it clockwise with your crescent wrench. Even though this is referred to as a "screw," the end of it is not slotted for a Phillips-head or flathead screwdriver but made like a kind of nut itself. Tighten your crescent onto the screw and turn it clockwise. As you do this, the push pad will push against the frozen nut and begin to press the breaking point into the nut from the other direction. After a certain amount of pressure, the nut will break. he screw counter-clockwise.

How to use butter machine ?

Now many people try to use the butter machine for filling oil operations by themselves, especially beginners improper operation can easily cause clogging or no oil. Here New friends please pay attention,proper operation of butter machine is very importance.

     1,  A butter machine at start up, first check the tank. Don't load boot long time without insufficient oil in barrel oil, and avoid heat damage to parts of the plunger pump.

    2, To determine when the butter machine damage must overhaul must be professional overhaul, to properly overhaul, not undermine the accuracy of demolished parts, avoid touching the surface of the hair parts.

    3, In the process of butter machine running,often to filter air filtration components to avoid some of the dust, the dust falling into the electric yellow pumps air pump, and damage the internal parts of the electric yellow pumps.

    4, When the butter machine uses compressed air regulator is not too high, otherwise it will be overloaded and cause damage to equipment hose elegant, affecting the life of the high-pressure hose. General recommendations regulator does not exceed 0.8 MPa.

    5, usually to often do the cleaning and maintenance work, regular cleaning of the entire hydraulic system, remove the grease gun nozzle, with clean oil reciprocating cycle times, red rinse away debris in the pipe, and keep the oil barrel oil clean

Which auto tool is the good tool?

Many people think the high price is the best tool.but Good tools not only know with price only,the material,production technic,surface treatment also are main key of the price and good or bad tool.For ex

No.1     Material:

In the Chinese market,There are A3,45#,40CR three type steel material.

                        GB                    JIS                    ASTM                              DIN

A3                 Q235                 SS41                   A283-C                         17100 

45#               45#                   S45C                   SAE 1045                        C45

40cr             40CR                SCr440                SAE 5140                        41CR4

Report:

A3 

                  

45#    

           

40CR 

     

SO,The price from cheap to expensive is   A3 <45#<40cr and heavy duty

NO.2        Technic

Forge drop or casting is the main technic in tool manufacturing. and forge drop will be more expensive than casting,meanwhile,Forge drop will be better in the quality and heavy duty.

No.3       Heat treatment

Many auto tools work in heavy duty job.so if the tools' HRC Hardness is high,the tool will be better. A3 steel can't heat treatment,and there is no HRC hardness,is not a good material for tools. After treatment, The 45# max hardness is 35-45,The 40CR is 40-55.but more attention:too high HRC hardness the steel will be broken easy,so 38-42 is the better.

No.4     Surface treatment

In the Chrome plated,black oxide coating,electrophoretic paint,zinc plating,phosphorization,Chrome plated is more expensive than others.

So, if a tool is the 40cr or 45#, Forge drop treatment, HRC hardness  about 40, chrome plated is the better tools. 

Thanks for DNT Tools offered the knowledge.

New price list of DNT Auto Tools will be published on Feb 1th,2015

Today is Jan 23th,2015.


In the morning conference,all manager are talking about how to do better service to our customers.

talking how to do better service to customer in 2015

Result:

1. To improve and better quality in future.

2. Shorten the circle of developing new products.


3. Price will be adjusted,and New price will be published on Feb 1st,2015.



more detail check:price will be adjusted

How to use and where to use auto special tools--Piston Ring Compressor(with pictures)

No.1 Piston Ring Pliers


Fig1.

Piston ring pliers is designed to instal or remove engine Piston rings to avoid piston rings cut off for uneven force.If you are repairing,must slowly and slowly

No.2 Piston Ring Compressor

Fig.2