How to replace ball joints by ourselves?

Replacing ball joints remains the same on both rear-wheel drive vehicles and front-wheel drive vehicles. On front-wheel drive there is one ball joint on the lower control arm as opposed to two---upper and lower on a rear-wheel drive. The rear-wheel drive vehicles can be dangerous due to the front spring compression, so the instructions should not be circumvented. If the lower control arm is not secure and slips, allowing the coil spring to come loose, it can have deadly results because it will fly out of its seat with a vengeance.

Instructions:

1.Raise the vehicle with the floor jack on the ball joint side. Place a jack stand on the side opposite of the side getting the ball joint. Leave the floor jack on the ball joint side. Remove the front wheel using the air gun and socket.


2.Remove the brake caliper using the 3/8-inch ratchet and appropriate socket. Remove the rotor if front-wheel drive only. Just pull it off by hand.

3.Remove the lower ball joint cotter pin using the wire cutters. On a rear-wheel drive, remove the cotter pin from the upper ball joint as well.

4.Remove the outer tie rod end from the steering on the spindle by inserting the ball joint separator between the control arm and the spindle. Hit the tool with the hammer until the tie rod end pops out of the tapered recess. Lift the tie rod out.

5.Support the lower control arm with the other jack stand. This is the important part. Insert the jack stand securely under the lower control arm, as close to the outside end as possible without interfering with the removal of the ball joint. The spring will want to push down on the lower control arm when the lower ball joint is released. Put it dead-center on the arm and on solid ground.

6.Loosen the lower ball joint nut, but do not take it off. If it comes off, put it back on with seven or eight threads so that when the ball joint is broken loose, the spring will not be released. On a rear-wheel drive, remove the nut on the upper control arm since there is no pressure on this one.

7.Install the ball joint separator in between the lower control arm and the spindle, and hit it with a hammer until it pops out of its tapered hole in the spindle. On a rear-wheel drive, remove the upper ball joint from the upper part of the spindle in the same way.

8.Place the jack stand under the lower control arm on a hard floor and dead-center on the control arm. Make sure the jack stand is as close to the ball joint as possible without interfering with the removal of the ball joint.

9.Lower the vehicle on the jack stand until the control arm is level and is slightly compressing the spring. Remove the ball joint nuts from the upper and lower ball joints on a rear-wheel drive. Remove the sole bottom ball joint on a front-wheel drive vehicle.

10.Remove the two large bolts and nuts that run through the top arm of the spindle and the strut on a front-wheel drive, using the air gun and a socket. Once the bolts are removed, push the strut and spindle apart by hand.

11.Lift the spindle off of the ball joints and lay aside. Remove the lower ball joint. Look for a snap ring that is found on some models, on the top side by the stud that is used to secure the ball joint. If there is one, use the snap ring pliers to remove it. Straighten the stud and hit it hard with the hammer, and drive it out of the arm.

12.Remove the upper ball joint if a rear-wheel drive. Use the ball joint installation kit. There will be a series of different size pipes, a large c-clamp and two top caps. Since the ball joint is going to come out going upwards, place the large pipe, the one that is larger than the ball joint, on the top as a receiver. Place the smaller pipe on the bottom side to use as a pusher. Place the cap on each pipe and the c-clamp over these pipes.

13.Using the 1/2-inch air gun and socket, tighten the c-clamp until it pushes the ball joint out. To replace both the top and bottom ball joints, simply reverse the tool. To make the process go easily, make real sure that the ball joints are going in dead-straight.

14.Install all these parts in reverse order of removal.

what is the brake caliper tools manufacture process?

How to Change Your Car’s Oil,arrange by DNT Tools

Unless your car’s oil filter and/or oil drain plug is impossible to reach, you can save money by changing your oil and oil filter yourself (your car’s manual should tell you how much oil to get). Start by warming up your engine for 2 or 3 minutes so the gook gets churned up and can flow out of the engine easily. You don’t want the engine so hot that you burn yourself. When it’s slightly warm to the touch, shut off the engine.


Then, follow these steps:


1. Look under your car to find the drain plug.

The drain plug is a large nut or plug located under the oil pan at the bottom of the engine. If you can’t reach your oil drain plug easily, you’ll have to either crawl under your car to reach it or jack up the car.


2. Push a container under the oil drain plug.

You want this container to catch the oil, so make sure it’s big enough.


3. Unscrew the oil drain plug.

Protect your hand with a rag or some paper towels, and be ready to move your hand out of the way. The oil now drains out of your engine into the container.


4. Remove the cap from the oil filler hole at the top of your engine and unscrew the oil filter, using a wrench if you can’t do it by hand.

To unscrew the filter, twist it counterclockwise. The filter will have oil in it, so be careful not to spill it when you remove it. If any remnants of the filter’s rubber seal remain on your engine, remove them.


5.Empty the oil from the filter into a drain pan.

After the filter is empty, wrap it in newspaper and set it aside to take to a recycling center with your old oil.


6. Open a new bottle of oil and dip a finger into it.

Use the oil to moisten the gasket on the top of the new oil filter.


7. Screw the new filter into the engine where the old one was.

Follow directions on the filter, or turn it gently by hand until it “seats” and then give it another three-quarter turn.


8. Wipe around the place where the oil drain plug goes.

Do this step only after all the oil has drained out.


9. Replace the oil drain plug and use an adjustable wrench to tighten it.

If your vehicle uses an oil drain plug gasket, make sure the old one has been removed and lay a new gasket on the pan before you replace the plug.


10. Use a funnel to pour all but 1 quart of the fresh oil into the oil filler hole.

Pour slowly to allow the oil time to run down.


11. Replace the oil filler cap and run the engine for 30 to 60 seconds.

Check for leaks from the oil drain plug and around the filter.


12. Shut off the engine and wait 5 to 10 minutes for the oil to settle into the oil pan, and then check the oil level again.

Remove the oil dipstick, wipe it with a clean, lint-free rag, and shove it back in. Pull it out again and check it.


13.13Keep adding oil a little at a time.

Check the stick after each addition until you reach the “Full” line on the dipstick.


14.Remove the drain pan from under the vehicle and give the car a test drive.

Go around the block a couple of times.


15. Let the oil settle down again for 5 to 10 minutes, then recheck the dipstick. If it’s still at “Full,” you’re good to go!


Dispose of the old oil by taking it to an auto parts store or other oil-recycling center.

How to Remove Valve Springs Without Removing the Head

Within every automotive engine are several valve springs. The valve springs hold the valves in their closed position until the valves are opened by the engine's camshaft. Over time and with mileage, the strength of valve springs diminishes. A weakened valve spring usually causes backfiring. Valve springs are typically removed after the cylinder head has been taken off of the engine to prevent the valve from dropping into the cylinder. However, with the assistance of compressed air and a sparkplug air hose kit, the springs can be removed without removing the head.







1.Remove the engine's sparkplugs with a sparkplug wrench.

2.Remove the valve cover by removing each of the valve cover's retaining bolts with a socket wrench and lifting the valve cover off the cylinder head to expose the rocker arms.

3.Screw the tip of a sparkplug air hose kit into the spark plug opening that corresponds to the valve spring that will be removed.



4.Connect an air hose attached to an air compressor to the opposite end of the air hose kit.

5.Turn the air compressor on and allow the cylinder to fill with air.

6.Remove the adjusting nut in the center of a rocker arm with a socket wrench, then lift the rocker arm off its mounting stud.

7.Position a valve spring compressor tool onto the rocker arm stud, then secure the tool in place by tightening the rocker arm's adjusting nut onto the stud.


8.Compress the valve spring with the valve spring compressor tool to expose the tip of the valve.

9.Pull the two valve keepers off the tip of the valve with needle-nose pliers while compressing the spring.

10.Release the valve spring gradually with the compressor tool.

11.Lift the valve spring off the cylinder head.

How to Use a Nut Splitter

Every mechanic has encountered the nut that just won't come undone. Whether it is from rust, heat or extreme vibration, the nut seems as if it has become a part of the car frame and is immovable. Before you reach for a saw or torch to try to cut it off (and cause damage to your frame), try a nut splitter. A nut splitter is a simple tool that comes in a variety of sizes. Better still, more often then not, you will be able to reuse the bolt once it is free.








Instructions

1.Identify the three main parts of the nut splitter. First is the tightening screw located at the end of the handle. The other main parts are located in the wider top part of the nut splitter. Inside the boxy shape is a molded point, or breaker point. Coming out of the handle and into the boxy part is a small metal push pad on a rod. This rod extends and retracts according to how the tightening screw is turned. You want to fit your nut between the breaking point and the push pad. Move the push pad away from the breaking point by turning the screw counter-clockwise.


2.Place the nut splitter around the nut. You want to pull the nut splitter so the breaking point is pressed against the nut. You also want to make sure that you have enough room to turn the tightening screw with a crescent wrench. Move the handle of the nut splitter until it is in a position where you can easily use the wrench on the screw.


3.Tighten the screw by turning it clockwise with your crescent wrench. Even though this is referred to as a "screw," the end of it is not slotted for a Phillips-head or flathead screwdriver but made like a kind of nut itself. Tighten your crescent onto the screw and turn it clockwise. As you do this, the push pad will push against the frozen nut and begin to press the breaking point into the nut from the other direction. After a certain amount of pressure, the nut will break. he screw counter-clockwise.

How to Use a Piston Ring Compressor

Piston rings keep oil from entering the combustion chamber of a combustion engine. Piston rings wear over time and will begin to allow oil to burn along with fuel. Blue smoke emitting from the tailpipe of your vehicle signifies burning oil and worn piston rings. New piston rings fit snugly against an engine's cylinder walls. Installing tight fitting rings requires a piston ring compressor to keep the rings from catching on the upper lip of the cylinder wall and breaking during installation.









1.Coat the installed piston rings and the inside of a piston ring compressor with 10W30 motor oil. ains in the piston ring compressor.


2.Push the latch located on the side of the piston ring compressor away from the tool.






3.Spin the piston rings to stagger the ring seams. Slide the ring compressor over the top of the piston. Push the latch towards the side of the compressor.


4.Select a socket from a socket set that matches the size of the bolt located on the side of the piston ring compressor. Attach the socket to a 3/8-inch ratchet handle.


5.Turn the bolt clockwise until the compressor sits tight against the sides of the piston.


6.Slide the piston rod into the combustion cylinder until the compressor sits on top of the engine block.






7.Tap on the top of the piston with the wooden handle of a hammer until the piston rests inside of the combustion cylinder and no part of the piston remains in the piston ring compressor.