How To Replacing A Fuel Filter?

Is My Fuel Filter Clogged?

Is your car hemming and hawing more than a politician in the Iowa primaries? Does it hesitate, stall, or lag when you put the petal to the metal? If these symptoms are new, a clogged fuel filter is the likely culprit.

Fuel filters become obstructed due to dirt or rust in the fuel tank, and by debris from the normal deterioration of the fuel line. The fuel filter keeps contaminants out of your vehicle's engine.

All fuel filters need occasional changing as a part of regular car maintenance. Some cars tell you how often, but most don't. It needs to be replaced yearly, especially if your car's got a lot of miles; if you use cheap gas or gas with alcohol in it; drive on a lot of gravel; or do anything else that might help clog things up.

Nobody gets off easy. Even if you have a new car with a "lifetime" filter, it'll still need to be replaced once in a while, at least every 30,000 miles. Further, you can't tell from looking that a filter's clogged. Blow through it; if that's hard to do, then it needs to be replaced.

Safety Disclaimer

This article provides a basic description of the process of changing a fuel filter. It doesn't cover every kind of car or situation, so check out your vehicle's service manual.

First, fuel is flammable. Repeat: fuel is flammable. Take these precautions to prevent turning everybody into human charcoal:

Turn off the car before you work on the fuel system AND remove the fuel pump fuse or relay.
Smoking's extra life-threatening while working with fuel, so don't do it.
If you are working in an enclosed garage, make sure there is adequate ventilation.
Gasoline is a serious skin irritant; wear petroleum-resistant gloves, like like nitrile, while handing fuel or fuel lines.
Automotive fuel is also a known carcinogen, so avoid breathing fumes or prolonged exposure.
Clean up any spills immediately and dispose of any gasoline or fuel-soaked rags and the old fuel filter properly. Be sure to handle the old fuel filter carefully, as it will still contain a small amount of fuel.

Locating the Fuel Filter

Look at your manual to find your fuel filter, then get these things ready:

• Several clean, dry shop rags.
• Tools to change your specific fuel filter.
• Extra hose if your filter is of the type that utilizes standard rubber hose and screw clamps
• Correct fuel filter for your make and model vehicle.
• Petroleum-resistant gloves.
• Proper eye protection.

Changing the Fuel Filter

The first steps in replacing your fuel filter depend on the type of fuel pump. Determine whether your vehicle has an electric or non-electric fuel pump, then follow the directions below

Electric Fuel Pump

• Remove the fuel pump fuse or relay in the main fuse box.
• Start the engine and allow the motor to run until it stops by itself.
• Turn off the ignition and remove the key from the starter.

This drains the fuel in the line and relieves the higher fuel pressure in an electric fuel system. If the line is not drained, the pressurized fuel will spray into the engine compartment, creating a potential hazard.

Non-Electric Fuel Pump

For a non-electric fuel pump system, you will not be able to run out the fuel; however, the pressure in the fuel line will be much lower than that of an electric fuel pump system. Because you will not be able to run out the fuel, there will be a larger quantity of fuel spilled but, because it is not under as much pressure, it will be easier to contain. Just be sure to have your shop rags handy.

Out with the Old, In with the New

If the filter is underneath the vehicle, be sure to take proper precautions before going under the vehicle. Either use ramps approved for the weight of your vehicle, or use floor jacks and stands.

Always set the parking brake and use wheel chocks. Never get under a vehicle which is supported by jacks alone. Always use jack stands to support the vehicle.

Here are the steps to remove the old fuel filter and replace it with the new fuel filter:

• Place a shop rag under the existing fuel filter and disconnect the filter using the proper tools. Your filter may utilize a "quick connect" system. If you are unsure of the operation of this system, you should find out the proper way to remove the filter and if there are any special tools necessary.
• Remove the existing fuel filter as shown in the vehicle's service manual. Check the filter to make sure it is facing the right direction.
• If the existing fuel line hose is cracked, frayed, or if it is damaged when you remove the filter, replace it at this time using the extra hose you purchased with the filter.
• Once the new filter has been installed, replace and tighten the clamps, if present.
• If you have an electric fuel pump, re-install the pump fuse.
• Dispose of the old filter and rags appropriately. Do not leave the old filter or any gasoline-soaked rags out once you have reconnected the battery.
• Attempt to start the engine. It may take more that one try as the filter fills up with fuel.

Congratulations, you've just changed your fuel filter! Your vehicle's performance should increase substantially. However, if you continue to experience problems with acceleration, contact a professional mechanic.

DIY How To Replace A Fuel Filter?

Is My Fuel Filter Clogged?

Is your car hemming and hawing more than a politician in the Iowa primaries? Does it hesitate, stall, or lag when you put the petal to the metal? If these symptoms are new, a clogged fuel filter is the likely culprit.

Fuel filters become obstructed due to dirt or rust in the fuel tank, and by debris from the normal deterioration of the fuel line. The fuel filter keeps contaminants out of your vehicle's engine.

All fuel filters need occasional changing as a part of regular car maintenance. Some cars tell you how often, but most don't. It needs to be replaced yearly, especially if your car's got a lot of miles; if you use cheap gas or gas with alcohol in it; drive on a lot of gravel; or do anything else that might help clog things up.

Nobody gets off easy. Even if you have a new car with a "lifetime" filter, it'll still need to be replaced once in a while, at least every 30,000 miles. Further, you can't tell from looking that a filter's clogged. Blow through it; if that's hard to do, then it needs to be replaced.

Safety Disclaimer

This article provides a basic description of the process of changing a fuel filter. It doesn't cover every kind of car or situation, so check out your vehicle's service manual.

First, fuel is flammable. Repeat: fuel is flammable. Take these precautions to prevent turning everybody into human charcoal:

• Turn off the car before you work on the fuel system AND remove the fuel pump fuse or relay.
• Smoking's extra life-threatening while working with fuel, so don't do it.
• If you are working in an enclosed garage, make sure there is adequate ventilation.
• Gasoline is a serious skin irritant; wear petroleum-resistant gloves, like like nitrile, while handing fuel or fuel lines.
• Automotive fuel is also a known carcinogen, so avoid breathing fumes or prolonged exposure.
• Clean up any spills immediately and dispose of any gasoline or fuel-soaked rags and the old fuel filter properly. Be sure to handle the old fuel filter carefully, as it will still contain a small amount of fuel.

Locating the Fuel Filter

Look at your manual to find your fuel filter, then get these things ready:

• Several clean, dry shop rags.
• Tools to change your specific fuel filter.
• Extra hose if your filter is of the type that utilizes standard rubber hose and screw clamps
• Correct fuel filter for your make and model vehicle.
• Petroleum-resistant gloves.
• Proper eye protection.

Changing the Fuel Filter

The first steps in replacing your fuel filter depend on the type of fuel pump. Determine whether your vehicle has an electric or non-electric fuel pump, then follow the directions below

Electric Fuel Pump

• Remove the fuel pump fuse or relay in the main fuse box.
• Start the engine and allow the motor to run until it stops by itself.
• Turn off the ignition and remove the key from the starter.

This drains the fuel in the line and relieves the higher fuel pressure in an electric fuel system. If the line is not drained, the pressurized fuel will spray into the engine compartment, creating a potential hazard.

Non-Electric Fuel Pump

For a non-electric fuel pump system, you will not be able to run out the fuel; however, the pressure in the fuel line will be much lower than that of an electric fuel pump system. Because you will not be able to run out the fuel, there will be a larger quantity of fuel spilled but, because it is not under as much pressure, it will be easier to contain. Just be sure to have your shop rags handy.

Out with the Old, In with the New

If the filter is underneath the vehicle, be sure to take proper precautions before going under the vehicle. Either use ramps approved for the weight of your vehicle, or use floor jacks and stands.

Always set the parking brake and use wheel chocks. Never get under a vehicle which is supported by jacks alone. Always use jack stands to support the vehicle.

Here are the steps to remove the old fuel filter and replace it with the new fuel filter:

• Place a shop rag under the existing fuel filter and disconnect the filter using the proper tools. Your filter may utilize a "quick connect" system. If you are unsure of the operation of this system, you should find out the proper way to remove the filter and if there are any special tools necessary.
• Remove the existing fuel filter as shown in the vehicle's service manual. Check the filter to make sure it is facing the right direction.
• If the existing fuel line hose is cracked, frayed, or if it is damaged when you remove the filter, replace it at this time using the extra hose you purchased with the filter.
• Once the new filter has been installed, replace and tighten the clamps, if present.
• If you have an electric fuel pump, re-install the pump fuse.
• Dispose of the old filter and rags appropriately. Do not leave the old filter or any gasoline-soaked rags out once you have reconnected the battery.
• Attempt to start the engine. It may take more that one try as the filter fills up with fuel.

Congratulations, you've just changed your fuel filter! Your vehicle's performance should increase substantially. However, if you continue to experience problems with acceleration, contact a professional mechanic.  

How To Change a Tire?

Sooner or later, it's bound to happen to most everyone. You're driving along with your mind on the important meeting agenda, and suddenly your car pulls to one side and you hear that dreaded flapping sound of a flat tire.

Nowadays, many drivers have roadside assistance services that will come fix your flats, but it's always smart to know how to change a flat yourself. Since it's a fairly common occurrence, car manufacturers have tried to make the tire change process one that virtually anyone can do.


Before Starting Out

It's a good idea to get your car serviced before heading out on a road trip. Part of the checkup should include a look at the tires.

Look for any unevenly worn spots, or skimpy tread. If the tires are iffy, invest in new ones. You'll need them eventually anyway, and it's better to start out on a trip with new tires than have a blow-out in the middle of nowhere.

Even if you're not heading on a trip, you should familiarize yourself with the tools you'll use in the event of a flat tire. Most cars come equipped with a simple jack and lug wrench, as well as a spare tire. Check your owner's manual if you aren't sure how to access these items.

Pull out the jack and the tire, and make sure the tire is in good shape. If your spare is flat, get it fixed.

It only takes a few minutes to make sure you have all the tools, and you'll save yourself a big headache later if you find yourself on the side of the road with a flat.

Optional Items to Pack

Besides the crucial jack, wrench, and spare tire, you might also want to consider placing these tools in your trunk to make a tire change much easier and more comfortable:

Flashlight (with extra batteries).
Gloves.
Tarp or mat to kneel on.
Plastic rain poncho.
Fix-a-flat spray foam.
Tire gauge.
Tire blocks.


Changing a Flat Tire

Follow these simple steps to fix the problem and be on your way in no time:

1. Find a safe spot to pull over. If you're on the freeway, taking the next exit is the safest bet, even if you have to drive on a blown tire. Otherwise, pull as far onto the shoulder as possible. Don't park in the middle of a curve where approaching cars can't see you. Also, choose a flat spot; jacking up your car on a hill can be a disaster. If you have a manual transmission, leave your car in gear. Be sure to set your parking brake!
2. Turn on your hazard lights. Get the jack, wrench, and spare tire from the trunk of the car and bring them over to the tire that is flat. Use other tools or supplies, if needed.
3. Use the wrench to loosen the lug nuts. You may need to remove the hubcap. Don't remove the lug nuts at this point; simply loosen them by turning the wrench to the left (counter-clockwise). If the lug nuts are really tight, try placing the wrench on the nut and standing on the wrench arm to use your full weight on it. You can also try hitting the wrench arm with a rock.
4. Use the jack to lift the vehicle off the ground. Different car models may have different places to put the jack; consult your owner's manual for specific locations. Once the jack is securely in the correct spot, jack up the car until the tire is about 6 inches off the ground.
5. Remove the lug nuts and pull the tire off the car. Make sure to place the lug nuts in a pile that won't get scattered, and pull the tire straight toward yourself to remove it from the wheel base.
6. Place the spare on the car. Line up the lug nut posts with the holes in the spare, and push the spare all the way onto the wheel base until it can't go any farther.
7. Put on the lug nuts. Don't put them on tightly, just make sure they're on enough for the spare to stay on the car for a moment.
8. Lower the car back to the ground. Use the jack to bring the car back down to ground level. Remove the jack from underneath the car.
9. Make sure the lug nuts are tightened. With the car back on the ground, you can now tighten the lug nuts. Rather than tightening them one by one in order, start with one lug nut, tighten it about 50%, move to the opposite nut (across the circle) and tighten that one about the same amount. Keep tightening opposite lug nuts gradually in turn until each lug nut is as tight as it can be.
10. Put your flat tire and tools back in your trunk. Make sure you don't leave anything on the side of the road.

Quick Fixes

Once in a while, a tire isn't completely destroyed when it goes flat. If the flat is caused by a nail or other sharp object, and you can't or don't want to change your tire on the side of the road, you may be able to give yourself a few miles of leeway by using a flat-fix type spray.

Simply follow the manufacturer's directions. In ideal situations, the spray foam will allow you to at least find a close off-ramp and pull into a service station or a rest stop before you have to change your tire.

Vehicle Maintenance:Know Your Basic Car Care

Today's vehicles are much more complex and complicated than the cars of the 1960s, '70s, '80s, incorporating more computer electronics, silicon chips, and sophisticated engines. However, the same basic car care still applies to all kinds of vehicles, and can extend the life and durability of your car or truck.

The best part is, basic car care does not require any sophisticated understanding of vehicles or their systems. A few simple steps, some regular checks, and addressing issues promptly can greatly extend the life of your vehicle, making it safer and more dependable for you and your family.

Regular checks

It may seem intimidating, but basic care car is often simply a matter of popping open the hood and taking a look at the engine of your vehicle.

Some basic car care starts with examining the exterior. Check your tires at least every other week to make sure they are inflated properly. This should be an actual check with a tire pressure gauge, but you may also advantage from a visual check to make sure the tires appear equally and properly inflated.

Other visual checks that require almost no vehicle mechanics knowledge include the following:

• body and bumper damage, which should be monitored for insurance purposes
• leaking fluids underneath the vehicle, including oil, power and brake fluid, transmission or other fluid (air-conditioning may cause water to drip under a vehicle)
• smoke in vehicle exhaust, aside from normal diesel emissions or startup fumes
• engine or fluid warning lights, which should be promptly addressed before any further driving

Under the Hood

Of course, much of the day-to-day driving maintenance for your vehicle must occur with the hood opened and up, but that doesn't mean you have to be a mechanic. The most important things to monitor and check regularly include the following:

• engine oil level and cleanliness
• antifreeze/coolant level (never attempt to remove radiator cap while engine is hot or warm)
• brake and power steering fluid levels
• transmission fluid
• belts

When checking fluid levels, the engine usually has containers and canisters with fill-level lines. Make sure the fluids are above the minimum line, and below the maximum line. You should also keep an eye out for any leaks or worn radiator and other tubes, which should be replaced before pushed to the point of bursting.

Other things to be watchful for in and around the engine include loose electrical or tube connections, worn or exposed wires, and loose or warped belts, which should be promptly replaced. Belt replacement is somewhat difficult for some motorists, but is a relatively simple and inexpensive fix at a service station, so it may be worth the trip to your mechanic to get the right belt installed correctly.

You should also keep an eye on your vehicle's battery, and be aware of its age. Batteries should be replaced every five years or so, and if your battery is not getting the proper charge to easily start your car, you should have it checked. You can usually have your battery's charge and water level checked for free at a battery replacement station. Most vehicle batteries come with comprehensive warranties, as well.

Changing the Oil

One of the most important things you can do to maintain your vehicle is to change the oil and oil filter regularly. Some mechanics recommend changing the oil every 2,000-3,000 miles, but you can safely drive further. However, you should be sure to change the oil of your vehicle, or have it changed, at least every 5,000, including a new filter.

Your oil should be relatively clean, but still have a dark color to it once it runs through your engine. You should regularly check your oil level, and maintain it between the minimum and maximum fill lines. This is why it is a good idea to have some motor oil with the vehicle so you will be able to add some if needed.

There are a variety of types of motor oil to choose from. Lighter weight oil, such as 5W-30, is typically better for colder temperatures, while heavier oil, such as 10W-40, is more suited to warmer temperatures and climates. If your vehicle smokes or uses a lot of oil, a heavier weight and synthetic blend motor oil is probably best.

Other Replacements and Maintenance

Other important components and parts of your vehicle and engine that need regular maintenance and infrequent replacement include the following:

• air filter
• headlight, turn signals, and brake lamps
• spark plugs and cables
• engine timing belt
• windshield wipers
• Most engine tuneups are either actual motor work, or electrical tuneups consisting of spark plug, cable, and distributor cap replacement.

The biggest thing to remember with ongoing vehicle maintenance is to address issues promptly, including engine knocking or other noises, and do your best to try to understand what may be going on before you visit the mechanic.