Wednesday, 31 August 2016

Your Tires Can Tell You Where A Problem Will Appear About Your Car


Your tires are your car's only connection to the road. They're overlooked as safety items, but sometimes they're the first place where a problem will appear. We show you how to read your tires and know what the warning signs mean.



No.1 Center Wear

It Looks Like: Your tire is worn down only in the middle.

The Diagnosis: This tire was overinflated, causing the center ring only to contact the road. Consequently, whoever drove this car had only a fraction of the rubber contacting the asphalt, so his or her traction suffered.
To find the correct tire pressure, check the door placard or the owner's manual. Check the pressure when the tires are cold, before you start driving. Some people claim that you should overinflate tires to reduce rolling resistance and increase fuel economy. But that's a fool's game. You might save some fuel, but you'll pay more in prematurely worn tires.

If your pressure is correct but you still see center wear, this could indicate that the wheel and tires are not properly matched. There is one caveat here: Woody Rogers, product information specialist at Tire Rack, says that some rear-wheel-drive vehicles can produce center wear on certain tires, even if they're properly aired up and maintained. But that's true only for high-powered sports cars.


No.2 Cracking And Bulging

It Looks Like: Pretty self-explanatory.
The Diagnosis: This usually comes from hitting a pothole, curb, or debris. Underinflation and overinflation put tires at a greater risk of damage from impacts.

Large cracks in the sidewall that runs along the rim are either impact-related or caused by chronic underinflation. Numerous small cracks in the sidewall or tread blocks come from exposure to the elements and age.

Bulging is what looks like a pimple in the tire, most often in its sidewall. It happens when there's an impact that causes internal damage, but the damage doesn't show up until weeks or months later. With cracks or with bulging, you're looking at buying a replacement."The tire should be removed from service, regardless of the cost," Rogers says. "Eventually, it will fail".

No.3 Cupping(Also Called Scalloping)

It Looks Like: A pattern of alternating hills and valleys
The Diagnosis: It happens when worn or damaged suspension components cause the tire to bounce as it travels, coming down harder on some spots of the tire than others. Bad shock absorbers are the usual cause, though anything that connects the wheel to the rest of the car could be a culprit.

Be careful with your diagnosis, though. Even tire shops sometimes incorrectly identify feathering or heel-toe wear as cupping. A wheel that is out of balance may also cause cupping or bald spots to form, though there will be fewer hills and valleys than you'd see with cupping caused by a failed shock absorber.


No.4 Diagonal Swipe

It Looks Like: Cupping or scuffing, but in a diagonal pattern.
The Diagnosis: This tire trouble is most often seen on the rear tires of a front-wheel-drive car with an incorrect toe setting. Insufficient tire rotation intervals may also cause a diagonal swipe. A third possibility: If you frequently carry heavy loads in the trunk or cargo area of a vehicle, that may change the geometry of the suspension, leading to a diagonal swipe.


No.5 Outer-Edge Wear

It Looks Like: The inside and outside edges are worn down; the middle is not.
The Diagnosis: This is a telltale sign of underinflation. Too little pressure is arguably the most dangerous condition for a tire, as it will flex more and the heat that builds up could cause a blowout. (Remember the Ford Explorer Firestone mess? The cause was mainly underinflated tires.) And an underinflated tire won't absorb bumps well and may knock the front end out of alignment or damage the suspension.

How to Avoid Underinflation: Again, keep an eye on your tire pressure by checking it monthly. Don't rely on the car's tire-pressure monitoring system to let you know when a tire is low on air. "[The warning system's] threshold is typically 25 percent underinflated," Rogers says. This means a tire that should be at 28 psi could be down 22 psi before you see a warning light. And that could be low enough for you to destroy a tire.


No.6 Feathering

It Looks Like:Feathered tread blocks are shaped like a series of ramps in a directional wear pattern that goes sideways across the tire. The lower edges of the ramps are rounded while the higher edges are sharp. If you can't tell by looking, run your hands across the tread blocks.

The Diagnosis:Most often, feathering means the car's toe setting (a measure of the car's alignment) is off. If the toe setting is correct, a worn or damaged suspension bushing could be causing the car's alignment to shift as you drive. Check for worn or damaged ball joints and wheel bearings as well.


No.7 Flat Spots

It Looks Like: One single spot on the tire is more worn down than the rest.The Diagnosis: Single spots of heavy wear show up on the tires when a car has been in a skid—say, the driver saw a deer on the highway and slammed on the brakes. A car without an antilock braking system is more likely to lock up its tires under heavy braking, which can cause a flat spot.

Also, cars that are parked for extended periods of time risk getting flat spots where the weight of the car has deformed the patch of tire contacting the ground. Unlike flat spots resulting from a skid, these show no additional tread wear—but nonetheless, the tire is misshapen. Although radial tires can have this problem, bias-ply tires are more prone to getting flat spots from sitting too long, especially if the tires are sitting in any kind of corrosive liquid, such as gasoline or antifreeze.


No.8 Heel-Toe

It Looks Like: Feathering, only the ramps run front-to-back along the tire rather than side-to-side. The leading edge of the tread blocks will be worn smooth while the trailing edge will be sharp.

The Diagnosis:[It's] definitely one of the most common conditions we see," Rogers says. "Because it's so common, a lot of people think it's normal." Heel-toe wear is typically a symptom of insufficient tire rotation intervals. So check your car's maintenance schedule and make sure you keep up. Misalignment or worn or damaged suspension bushings, ball joints, and wheel bearings can also cause heel-toe wear.



No.9 Single Side Wear

It Looks Like: One side of your tires wears down faster than the other.

The Diagnosis:The car's camber setting is likely off, causing the tire to lean too far to one side. Take the car for an alignment adjustment. Worn or damaged springs, ball joints, and suspension bushings can also cause single-side wear as could carrying heavy loads frequently, incorrect toe setting, and insufficient tire-rotation intervals. Some performance cars leave the factory with enough camber to induce single-side wear, but that's rare.


No.10 Tread-Wear Indicators

They Look Like:Ridges between the tread blocks. They sit tucked away between the treads where they can't contact the road.

The Diagnosis:When the tread wears down to the point that it is flush with the indicators, the tire has reached the end of its life. But depending upon the driving conditions you usually encounter, you may not want to wait for the indicators to become flush with the tread.

The tread depth of a typical tire is 11/32 inch, and those channels are there to funnel out water and prevent hydroplaning. The tread-wear indicators are 2/32 inch high, but Rogers recommends no less than 5/32 to 6/32 inch of tread for snow and 4/32 inch of tread for rain or sleet. Wet-weather performance declines significantly after 4/32 inch, so replace the tire before its indicators become flush with the tread block.









Wednesday, 24 August 2016

How to change car’s motor oil and filter?DNT Tools



One of the most important things you can do to keep your car in the best condition possible is to change your motor oil and filter. Oil in a car is like blood in our bodies – it flows throughout the car’s engine and keeps everything running smoothly. Frequent oil and filter changes are essential in increasing the life of your car and its performance.


When it comes time for that needed motor oil change (consult your owner’s manual for mileage intervals), you have options: You can take it to a service station, quick lube or car dealer, or you can do it yourself. While mechanics and other car maintenance people do a fine job with this routine procedure, changing your own oil is relatively easy and inexpensive. This simple guide will show you how to properly change the motor oil and filter of one of your most expensive and valuable possessions.

Car maintenance equipment

Before you open the hood and tackle this task, make sure you have all the necessary supplies and equipment. Here’s what you’ll need:

  • The proper amount and grade of motor oil. Try our product selector to help you find out which oil and filter to use. Make sure to check your owner’s manual for the correct viscosity and the number of quarts you’ll need. If you haven’t already, consider switching from conventional to synthetic motor oil such as Mobil 1 – this will provide you with improved engine efficiency and performance.
  • A high-quality oil filter – use our product selector or see your owner’s manual for requirements.
  • A socket wrench
  • An oil filter wrench
  • A funnel
  • Something to catch the old motor oil, such as an oil pan or bucket
  • Newspapers
  • Rags

Drain the old motor oil

Before draining the motor oil, start your car and let it run for a minute or two, or take it for a quick drive around the block; this will warm up the motor oil and allow it to drain out smoothly. Next, be sure you have a safe area to do your oil change – a driveway or garage will work well, and level ground is a must.

Under the vehicle, locate the oil pan and drain plug.

If there isn’t enough room to slide under the car to do this, you may have to jack up the car to get beneath it. Remember: Never get underneath a car supported only by a jack; always use a jack stand.

Once you identify the drain plug, spread the newspaper out and place the oil pan below. Loosen the drain plug with the socket wrench, turning it counterclockwise.

After loosening, remove the plug slowly by hand and let the motor oil drain out. Caution: The motor oil may be hot. Once the oil stream slows to a drip, reinstall the drain plug by hand and tighten it with a quarter turn clockwise with the wrench.

Replace the oil filter
Keep the oil drain pan underneath the car and locate the oil filter.

Loosen it with the filter wrench, turning it counterclockwise. Remove the oil filter by hand.

Before installing the new oil filter, apply a little motor oil to the new gasket. This will prevent the gasket from sticking, cracking or causing an oil leak.

Finally, install and tighten the new oil filter by hand.

Add the new motor oil
It’s now time to fill the engine with new motor oil. Find out which oil is right for your vehicle with our product selector. Keep in mind that the motor oil you use should be the recommended grade and amount as identified earlier in the owner’s manual.

Loosen the oil-filler cap and pour your motor oil into the tank. Using a funnel will help you avoid spilling. When finished, replace the oil cap and wipe away any spilled motor oil. Start your engine and run it for a minute to allow the new motor oil to circulate thoroughly.

You’re almost done. But don’t drive off yet, because you need to check the oil level. To do this, turn off the car and remove and clean the dipstick.

Insert and remove it once more, this time checking that the oil has the correct reading. Screw the cap back on and give yourself a pat on the back.

Wednesday, 17 August 2016

How to 1955-64 rear axle bearing installation?


The rear axle bearings that are used on a 1955 to 1964 are a “presson”
style ball bearing. The bearing supports the axle in the rear end
housing and also serves as the seal and axle retainer. An O-ring around
the outside of the bearing seals to the rear end housing, while a lip seal is
located on the outside face of the bearing that keeps rear end lube inside
the housing. When an axle bearing starts to leak (usually because the
bearing cage is disintegrating) the rear end lube will ruin the rear brake
shoes. If the bearing becomes loose, it will start to roar and possibly ruin
the axle and/or rear end housing. In this article we will show the proper
way to remove and install new rear axle bearings.



Parts List:
21-23 1955-56 Axle Bearing
21-24 1957 Axle Bearing
521012 1958-64 Axle Bearing
03-32 1955-57 Axle Flange Gaskets
563026 1958-64 Axle Flange Gaskets

Tools Needed:              Time:      
Hammer & Chisel             About 2 hours
Hydraulic Press
9/16" Wrench
Axle Puller



Photo 1: Remove the rear wheels,brake drums and loosen the four nuts that secure the axle retaining plate to the rear end. Using an axle puller, remove the axles
from the rear end housing. The axle bearing is pressed onto the axle and is held in place with a pressed-on retaining ring.



Photo 2: To remove the axle bearing, the retaining ring must be removed first. The retaining ring is made out of fairly soft material. Place the axle in a vice. Using a sharp chisel and hammer, split the retaining ring.







Photos 3a & 3b: The axle bearing cover has four studs that hold the axle to the rear end housing. These must be removed to allow the bearing to be pressed off. Using a hammer, tap the studs out of the bearing cover.


Photos 4a, 4b & 4c: A hydraulic press must be used to remove the axle bearing. Before applying any pressure to the bearing, wrap a heavy towel or rag over the bearing. If the
bearing breaks while being pressed off, the towel will retain any broken pieces and help prevent any injury to you







Photos 5a, 5b & 5c: The axle bearing cover has a gasket P/N 03-32 or 563206 that keeps the brake dust away from the axle bearing. These gaskets should always be replaced. We cleaned our bearing cover and painted it chassis black.


Photos 6a & 6b: The new bearing P/N 21-24 has a grease seal on one side of the bearing and is open on the other side. This type of bearing will be lubricated by the rear end lube. Some manufacturers supply a replacement bearing that has a seal on one side and a shield on the other. This means the bearing is permanently
sealed and will not use the rear end lube as the lubricant. If the bearing is permanently sealed, the sealed side will go to the outside of the axle housing and the shielded side will go to the inside of the axle housing.



Photos 7a, 7b & 7c: Using a hydraulic press, install the new axle bearing and bearing retainer making sure to press the bearing and retainer on
until they will go no further.





Photo 8: To install the axle retaining plate studs, simply stack up about seven or eight washers on the stud and using the backing plate nuts pull the studs into place. 





Photo 9: The gaskets used on the axle bearing cover keep any brake dust from getting to the axle bearing and damaging the bearing or seal. This seal does not retain rear end lube.





Photos 10a & 10b: Before installing the axle into the rear end, lubricate the Oring on the outside of the bearing with a light grease to help keep the O-ring from being damaged.




With new axle bearings, the rear end will be nice and quiet and will not leak. New rear axle bearings are a must if you want a nice, reliable classic for those long road trips!

Wednesday, 10 August 2016

How to Replace a Brake Caliper?DNT Tools

Safety Tip: Always wear safety glasses when working on your vehicle. Wear other personal protective equipment (PPE) when necessary, for example latex gloves or closed toe shoes.

1.Park your vehicle on a solid level surface. Set the parking brake and chock the rear wheels.

2.Remove the front wheel hub caps if applicable. Using a tire iron, break loose the front wheel lug nuts but do not remove.

3.Using a floor jack, lift up the front of your vehicle.

4.Secure the vehicle with jack stands on both sides for safety before starting any work. The pinch welds or the frame rails are the two best locations. Do not rely on the jack to hold the vehicle up while working.

5.Remove the front wheel lug nuts. Remove the front wheels and set them aside.

6.Inspect the brake caliper for any signs of binding. Look for rust and uneven brake pad wear.
          

7.Remove the brake caliper mounting bolts (sliding bolts). Remove the brake caliper. Remove the disc pads if they are attached to the caliper.

8.Support the caliper up and away from the working area. Do not allow the caliper to hang by the brake hose.

9.Clean and lubricate the sliding bolts.

10.Attach the disc pads to the new caliper if applicable. Install the new caliper over the brake disc (rotor). Attach the caliper to the mounting bracket with the sliding bolts. Tighten the caliper sliding bolts to the manufacturer's specifications.

11.Disconnect the brake line from the old caliper. Attach the brake line to the new caliper using new copper washers. Tighten the banjo bolt to the manufacturer's specifications.

12.Repeat for the other side. Bleed the front brakes.

13.Reinstall the front wheels. Snug down the lug nuts.
14.Remove jack stands and lower the vehicle to the ground. Torque the lug nuts to the manufacturer's specifications in a star pattern.
15.Verify that you have a solid brake pedal. Road test the vehicle to verify brake caliper repair.

How To Remove Pressed On Pinion Bearing?

Wednesday, 3 August 2016

How to Bleed Your Brakes the Right Way?DNT Tools

Air in the brake system can make your brake pedal feel spongy and vague. You should flush the fluid every two or three years, but it can be a moderately difficult DIY repair.
Your elderly car has required little in the way of episodic repair, for which you're glad. But at your last scheduled maintenance, the service manager advised you that you would need to replace the brake pads, front and rear, before too long. But deferring that expense for a while wouldn't be a problem, he said.

And all was fine for a couple of months, until you noticed the brake pedal dipping a little too close to the carpet while sitting at traffic lights. Not a big problem. Replacing the pads yourself on a Saturday morning should do the trick.

Except that now, despite the new pads all around, the brake pedal still feels spongy and low. You need to bleed your brakes.

AIR-COOLED

Here's what happened. The pads wore so thin that the brake fluid level dropped too low in the master cylinder reservoir. An air bubble or three got pumped into the lines. And because air is compressible, you now have the equivalent of a very soft spring in the solid column of brake fluid between your foot and the wheels. Bleeding the brakes will flush that air out.

The job also involves replacing the old fluid with fresh, which is a good thing. Why would the fluid need to be replaced? It becomes contaminated with atmospheric dirt and abrasive metal wear particles from moving parts in the master cylinder and calipers. It absorbs moisture from the air, which can lower the boiling point of the fluid enough to make it boil at the end of a long downhill grade. (And steam, like air, is compressible.) High temperatures from those high-energy-dissipation stops can degrade the alcohol-based fluid itself. Eventually, your water-clear brake fluid starts to look more like squid ink.

Antilock braking systems are even less tolerant of contaminated fluid and air than non-ABS. The ABS hydraulic pump operates at several thousand psi, forcing brake fluid through very small valves. This can whip air and brake fluid into something like the foam on a latte, which makes bleeding difficult. Those same valves and pump can easily be damaged by tiny abrasive particles.

The good news: Air that has entered the ABS controller can be bled out. Bad news: Some vehicles require the use of a hideously expensive proprietary ABS scan tool to cycle the pump and valves to purge the last of the air. But there's a simple solution to that: Never let any air enter the system. You can flush a system with fresh fluid by using nothing more than a wrench that fits the bleeder bolts -- and a helper with a normal attention span.

LET IT BLEED

To properly bleed the brakes, start with a couple of 8-ounce cans of fresh brake fluid. An unopened can has a long shelf life. An opened can should be discarded within a few weeks. Get the vehicle up in the air and remove all four wheels. Well, okay, you might be able to do this with the wheels on if you can swing a wrench on the bleeder valves.




Suck the old fluid and sediment out of the master cylinder reservoir with a turkey baster or syringe. Top off the reservoir with fresh fluid regularly as you bleed the system. Don't let it get more than half empty.


So, your next task is to make sure the bleeder valves can be loosened. You'll need a box wrench that fits the bleeder bolt. A crescent wrench or Vise-Grip probably will just round off the bolt's flats. A little penetrating oil drizzled on the bolts the day before will help. So will some judicious tapping with a hammer to break up any corrosion. Loosen the bolts, but leave them closed.

If you can't turn the bleeders without breaking them off, you'll need to replace the brake calipers or wheel cylinders. See the above notation about penetrating oil and light hammer taps before applying enough torque to break these minuscule, hollow bolts.

Sneak into the kitchen and appropriate the small turkey baster. Remove the top to the master cylinder reservoir and suck out as much of the old squid ink as you can. Clean any sediment out of the reservoir with a clean, lint-free rag. Do not spill any brake fluid on any painted surfaces -- it will remove the paint pretty much immediately.

Get a piece of clear plastic tubing (aquarium tubing is fine, and it's cheap). Push one end of the tube over the brake bleeder bolt at the right rear of the car. Put the other end of the tube into a small, clear bottle with an inch or two of clean brake fluid in it. (This will keep air from being sucked back into the brake cylinder or caliper.) Put a piece of 1 x 4 lumber or some other spacer under the pedal to prevent the pedal from traveling too far when line pressure is released. Top off the master cylinder reservoir with fresh fluid and put the cover back on the reservoir. Fluid will squirt out of an open reservoir every time the pedal is released.

CUE THE HELPER

Your helper needs to be someone who can follow instructions exactly. He or she won't get dirty hands so you don't need to pull one of your pals away from the ballgame. A teenager in a white dress will do fine. Have your helper sit in the driver's seat and await your orders. Here's the drill: You say "down." He or she depresses the brake pedal with about the same amount of force needed to keep the car from rolling forward at a traffic light. Then your helper says "down" and keeps the pressure on. When you hear the call, warn your helper that the brake pedal is about to sink underfoot and to keep the pressure on constantly. Then crack the bleeder bolt a quarter-turn.


A bleeder bolt can become difficult to remove. Use a proper-fitting box wrench to keep from rounding it off. Got ABS? You may need to use a scan tool during the bleeding process to cycle the pump and valves.


Some of the old, contaminated fluid will trickle down the tubing into your bottle. When the trickle stops, close the bleeder. Then you say "up." Your helper says "up," and removes his or her foot from the pedal.

Repeat this process until fresh, clear fluid comes from the bleeder. Any out-of-sequence moves can suck air into the caliper. Yes, the end of the tubing is submerged in fluid, but air can travel past the threads on the bleeder bolt into the caliper if there's ever any negative pressure in the system while the bleeder is cracked.

Every half-dozen or so iterations, top off the reservoir with fresh fluid. Do not allow the reservoir to get more than half empty -- air can be sucked into the master cylinder unless the fluid level remains well above the bottom of the reservoir that feeds the cylinder.

Once clean fluid is coming out of the brake, snug the bleeder bolt and move your operation to the left rear wheel and start all over again. Next repeat the process with the right front and finally with the left front. Follow that with a few strokes of fresh fluid from all four, again. Don't forget to keep the reservoir topped off.
AIR BREATHER

For an older vehicle without an antilock braking system, this process will do a great job even if you have air in the system, say, after replacing a caliper or master cylinder. For advice on bleeding ABS, you'll need to consult your service manual. There may be a bleeder bolt right on the ABS controller, or you may need to beg, borrow or steal an ABS-capable scan tool.