The rear axle bearings that are used on a 1955 to 1964 are a “presson”
style ball bearing. The bearing supports the axle in the rear end
housing and also serves as the seal and axle retainer. An O-ring around
the outside of the bearing seals to the rear end housing, while a lip seal is
located on the outside face of the bearing that keeps rear end lube inside
the housing. When an axle bearing starts to leak (usually because the
bearing cage is disintegrating) the rear end lube will ruin the rear brake
shoes. If the bearing becomes loose, it will start to roar and possibly ruin
the axle and/or rear end housing. In this article we will show the proper
way to remove and install new rear axle bearings.
Parts List:
21-23 1955-56 Axle Bearing
21-24 1957 Axle Bearing
521012 1958-64 Axle Bearing
03-32 1955-57 Axle Flange Gaskets
563026 1958-64 Axle Flange Gaskets
Tools Needed: Time:
Hammer & Chisel About 2 hours
Hydraulic Press
9/16" Wrench
Axle Puller
Photo 1: Remove the rear wheels,brake drums and loosen the four nuts that secure the axle retaining plate to the rear end. Using an axle puller, remove the axles
from the rear end housing. The axle bearing is pressed onto the axle and is held in place with a pressed-on retaining ring.
from the rear end housing. The axle bearing is pressed onto the axle and is held in place with a pressed-on retaining ring.
Photo 2: To remove the axle bearing, the retaining ring must be removed first. The retaining ring is made out of fairly soft material. Place the axle in a vice. Using a sharp chisel and hammer, split the retaining ring.
Photos 3a & 3b: The axle bearing cover has four studs that hold the axle to the rear end housing. These must be removed to allow the bearing to be pressed off. Using a hammer, tap the studs out of the bearing cover.
Photos 4a, 4b & 4c: A hydraulic press must be used to remove the axle bearing. Before applying any pressure to the bearing, wrap a heavy towel or rag over the bearing. If the
bearing breaks while being pressed off, the towel will retain any broken pieces and help prevent any injury to you
Photos 5a, 5b & 5c: The axle bearing cover has a gasket P/N 03-32 or 563206 that keeps the brake dust away from the axle bearing. These gaskets should always be replaced. We cleaned our bearing cover and painted it chassis black.
Photos 6a & 6b: The new bearing P/N 21-24 has a grease seal on one side of the bearing and is open on the other side. This type of bearing will be lubricated by the rear end lube. Some manufacturers supply a replacement bearing that has a seal on one side and a shield on the other. This means the bearing is permanently
sealed and will not use the rear end lube as the lubricant. If the bearing is permanently sealed, the sealed side will go to the outside of the axle housing and the shielded side will go to the inside of the axle housing.
Photos 7a, 7b & 7c: Using a hydraulic press, install the new axle bearing and bearing retainer making sure to press the bearing and retainer on
until they will go no further.
Photo 8: To install the axle retaining plate studs, simply stack up about seven or eight washers on the stud and using the backing plate nuts pull the studs into place. 
Photo 9: The gaskets used on the axle bearing cover keep any brake dust from getting to the axle bearing and damaging the bearing or seal. This seal does not retain rear end lube.
Photos 10a & 10b: Before installing the axle into the rear end, lubricate the Oring on the outside of the bearing with a light grease to help keep the O-ring from being damaged.
With new axle bearings, the rear end will be nice and quiet and will not leak. New rear axle bearings are a must if you want a nice, reliable classic for those long road trips!
No comments:
Post a Comment