Vehicle Maintenance:How To Change Your Oil?

 In this fast-paced world of endless work and little play, the last thing most people think about is crawling under the car and changing their vehicle's oil. After all, there are Grease Monkeys and Jiffy Lubes on just about every corner, not to mention all the garages and big-box chains who can do the job for you.

But if you're the do-it-yourself car maintenance type, you'll find the process takes only about 30 minutes, if you have all of the right tools. Of course, you may get grimy, so if you have an aversion to getting your hands dirty, head out to a garage. If you're ready to get under the car and take care of business, then read on.

When to Change the Oil

Check your vehicle owner's manual and see what the manufacturer recommends. Most will tell you to make the change once every 3,000 to 7,500 miles, so this is a pretty good leeway. Your dad may tell you something completely different. Then there is the opinion of the mechanic at the local garage, who will also throw out a number and then offer to change it for you each time. The general rule of thumb, especially if you want to keep your vehicle in tip-top condition, is to change the oil every 3,000 miles.

Tools for the Job

•     It's a dirty job, so dress in old clothes that you don't mind getting grubby.
•     Eye protection (safety glasses/goggles) and latex gloves.
•     Oil filter wrench for the size of your vehicles filter and a box end wrench for the size of your vehicles drain plug.
•     Rags.
•     A drain pan that holds at least 6 quarts.
•     Oil. Check your vehicle owner's manual for the engine oil capacity (with filter) and the proper viscosity. Follow any specifications for an API (American Petroleum Institute) certified symbol.
•     An automotive grade funnel.
•     If you have a low-riding vehicle or just prefer more space to maneuver, then you need a jack and jack stands, or drive-on ramps. However, most vehicles have enough of a gap to easily reach the oil pan. Some oil filters are accessed via the underside of the vehicle. In these cases, propping the vehicle may be a better option.

Changing the Oil

1.     Make sure your vehicle is parked on a flat surface and not at an angle.
2.     Run the engine for several minutes to heat the oil before draining. Shut off the engine before proce
3.     If using ramps, drive the vehicle onto the ramps. If using a jack and jack stands, raise the vehicle with the jack and lower it onto the stands. Never go under a vehicle unless it is supported by quality jack stands or drive-on ramps. Never go under a vehicle supported by drive-on ramps unless both of the non-ramped wheels (the ones which remain on the ground) are chocked. Blocks of wood of sufficient size suffice for this purpose; simply place them behind the tires. When using a jack, take care to lift the vehicle from a proper lifting point. If you're unsure where to place the jack, consider having just one more oil change done by a mechanic. When the vehicle is on the service hoist, ask if the mechanic would point out the proper lifting points on your vehicle.
4.     Always wear appropriate eye protection when working under the vehicle. Components under the vehicle will be hot. Use caution, especially when working near the exhaust system. The engine oil pan should be easy to identify. It's large and sags down a bit from the engine area. There will be a drain plug on the bottom edge.
5.     Once you find the engine oil pan and locate the drain plug, slip the drain pan below
6.     Unscrew the drain plug with the proper size box end wrench. (counter clockwise to loosen). The oil rushing from the drain most likely will drive the drain plug into the drain pan. Remember, the oil will be hot, so it is best to just let the bolt fall into the drain pan rather than try to yank it away once it comes free. This will save your hands from getting burned and gooey.
7.     It will take several minutes for the oil to drain., Retrieve the drain plug from the drain pan and inspect the drain plug washer. A metal drain plug washer that is no longer flat should be replaced. A rubber drain plug washer that is damaged or deteriorated should be replaced. Reinstall the drain plug into the oil pan. Do not over tighten.
8.     Find the oil filter. Adjust the drain pan to catch the oil that will fall from the filter once it's removed from the engine. Attach the filter wrench tightly around the filter and rotate counter clockwise to remove. You may find yourself in a battle trying to remove the filter and even crush the body. Simply make sure the wrench grip is solid and try for that first release. Once you achieve that, the filter should twist right off. The filter gasket should come off with the filter. If it didn't, remove the filter gasket from the filter mounting area. Wipe the filter mounting area with a clean rag.
9.     Set the old filter off to the side and swab the housing area with the rag until it's free of old oil.
10.     You're now ready to install the new filter. Coat the filter gasket with clean oil. Screw it in, taking caution not to go to the extreme when tightening. The tightening instructions will be printed on most filters. If not,a good rule to use is to rotate until gasket contacts mounting surface, then tighten an additional ½ turn.
11.     At this point, the hard part is over. Now locate the lubricant depository, usually marked by a cap noted appropriately: oil. Open it and pour in the required amount of oil. Replace the cap upon completion and wipe up any excess oil.
12.     Start the vehicle and do a quick check on all of the components to seek out any leaks. With the engine running, verify there is no engine oil leaking from the filter or from the drain plug. Shut off the engine and check engine oil level.
13.     Now you're ready to clean up. Used motor oil is classified as hazardous waste and must be disposed of in accordance with all applicable laws. Using a funnel, carefully pour the used oil from the drain pan into a leak proof container. Take the old oil to your local garage or auto parts store for disposal.

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How To Check Tire Pressure? Vehicle Maintenance in summer

Inflating and maintaining proper tire pressure ensures safer, more comfortable driving and better fuel efficiency. Particularly in times of high gas prices; in inclement driving conditions such as heavy rain, snow, or ice; and in vehicles of all sizes, tire pressure can make a major difference in driving, wherever you are.


Given the importance of the task, you might think it is complicated, but checking and maintaining your tire pressure is simple, provided you have a good tire air pressure gauge and source of air, both of which are available at many gas stations.




Get a Gauge


A simple tire air pressure gauge, available at most auto parts stores, for a few dollars, is adequate for the job. You do not necessarily need a digital air pressure gauge. If it is worth the $14 to $15 to you, a digital pressure gauge is easy to read and accurate. However, you should consider whether it will require batteries, and whether this would prevent you from using it.


Again, a standard pressure gauge that measures pounds per square inch (PSI) and fits easily in the glove box of your vehicle, is sufficient. Do avoid ultra-cheap models that may not give a proper reading.


As for a source of air, many gas and service stations have air available for 50 cents or so. Some of these air machines have gauges on them, and if you have no other means of measuring the pressure of your tires, these will work. However, they are typically beat and inaccurate, so have your own gauge to ensure the proper PSI for your tires and vehicle.

Checking Pressure

PSI is measured by the notches on a tire air pressure gauge or with a number reading on digital gauges. To find out what PSI is right for your tires, consult your owner's manual or the sticker on the driver's side door. When buying new tires, or getting a rotation, it's a good idea to ask what the ideal pressure is.


Recommendations may vary, but you should never inflate the tires five PSI more or less than what is recommended. Under-inflating wears out the sides of the tire, and is actually a driving hazard. Over-inflated tires will wear more quickly, and are also dangerous because of the increased possibility of a blowout. If you are unsure about the PSI for your tires, or it is unclear or worn away on the side of your tires, ask your mechanic or someone who knows about vehicles what PSI you should have for your tires.


Smaller compact and mid-size sedans typically have PSI levels between 30 and 40 PSI. Larger vehicles with larger tires, including bigger sedans, usually have higher pressure, around 45 PSI. These are general PSI figures, and the most accurate PSI for your tires is the number listed on the side. Tires should all be inflated to the same PSI for safety, proper vehicle function, comfort, and fuel efficiency.


Also, check your vehicle's tire pressure when the tires are cold. This means the tires should not have been driven on for at least three hours. If you need to drive to get air, try to drive less than a mile.


To get a PSI reading on your tire, place the air pressure gauge onto the tire's valve stem, the pencil-width air nozzle on the side of the tire. Try to place the gauge evenly onto the valve stem. This will allow air to escape, but once you firmly press the gauge down on the valve stem, it will stop the flow of air and give your gauge a reading, either by blowing out the metered stick with a traditional gauge, or a reading with a digital model gauge.

Adjusting Tire PSI

So you have a tire pressure gauge, and a source of air. It is best if you can park your car centered on the source of the air, which usually has a hose to reach the vehicle's tires. You may need to move the car to reach all of the tires, depending on the situation. Before you pay any money for air or start pumping up your tires, remove the caps on all the tire valve stems.


Next, you should check the pressure of all four tires, noting which ones need the most air. This will help you maintain uniform pressure in the tires, some of which may need less air. Hot weather, extreme temperatures and other conditions can cause the air in your tires to expand, and PSI can subsequently increase.


Once you know which tires need more air, you can deposit coins into the air machine, or get your air hose ready. Choose the first tire to fill, and fit the air hose nozzle onto the tire stem. When you start to place the air hose onto the tire stem, it will hit a pin inside the stem and start leaking air. You know when you have the air hose nozzle properly applied when the leaking air stops. It takes some force to get the hose pressed firmly on, but once it is in place, you will be ready to increase the tire pressure.


Some air hoses are automatic, and will release air in your tire once you have it on the tire's valve stem. Other air hoses have handles and require you to squeeze them to activate the air.


It is important to have your gauge as you fill the tire, taking the hose off somewhat frequently to check the pressure. It is extremely important not to over-inflate your tires. You can avoid this by using small bursts of air between your checks. As you increase the PSI and keep checking it, you will get a feel for how much air you are putting into the tire, and how much more you need. Once you get close to your recommended PSI, use less air, and keep going until you are at the right level.


Once you have the tires properly inflated, replace the stem caps by screwing them back on. Do not over-screw them, as they will break on the top. Tire stem caps are important to keep your tire valve stems clean and undamaged.


Tire pressure should be checked weekly, or every other week at least. Particularly with severe weather and temperature swings, tire pressure on the nicest tires with the nicest cars can still fluctuate, and must be monitored and maintained regularly for safe and fuel-efficient driving.


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How to Changing a Fuse

Fuses seem to break all the time, but they're designed to. Huh? When when one circuit has too much electricity flowing through it, the fuse blows to prevent serious damage and even fire.

Fuses are inexpensive and easy to replace. You can store extra fuses in your vehicle's fuse panel. If your fuse panel doesn't have a storage space, the second best place to keep such tiny parts is in your glove compartment or a special compartment in your toolbox.

Step-by-Step: How to Change a Fuse


Locate the Fuse Panel
Your owner's manual will tell you where your vehicle's fuse panel is. Most models situate the fuse panel on the driver's side of the dashboard and under the steering wheel, or in the engine compartment, but location varies from vehicle to vehicle. Other are found in the front dash door jambs or in the glove box.

Remove the fuse panel's cover; you'll see several different color-coded fuses plugged in. These colors, along with the numbers stamped on the fuses, indicate different amperage ratings. Now, turn the fuse panel cover over to see a helpful fuse diagram. This diagram shows you which fuse works with which electrical component.

Remove the Blown Fuse
Before you can change a fuse, you must find the faulty one. It will have a broken filament (the thin strip of metal inside) or will be black inside. Some vehicles come with special "pullers" to remove fuses, but tweezers work just as well. You can also use your trusty fingers. Just make sure you carefully remove and replace the fuses until you find the culprit.

Note that the vehicle's electrical problems may need a mechanic's attention if none of the fuses look blown, or if the fuse immediately blows again.

Replace the Fuse
Replace the blown fuse with a new fuse of the same amperage. Use your owner's manual, the fuse panel diagram, and the numbered, color-coded fuses themselves to help you determine the correct amperage. If you use the wrong amperage, you could cause much worse damage to your vehicle than just a blown fuse.

Once you have located a fuse of the right amperage, place it into the correct slot. Push it down with your finger to ensure it's completely installed, and then replace the fuse panel's cover.

Remember, if you don't have a spare fuse, you can always temporarily use the fuse of another less-used electrical component―as long as the amperage is correct. Consider using the fuse for your cigarette lighter, the radio, or the back window heater.

Check the Circuit
Once the fuse is replaced and the panel is covered, turn your vehicle's ignition and check to see if the troubled circuit is working properly. If it's working correctly, chances are you just had a temporary overload of electricity that caused the fuse to blow. If this is the case, then you just solved the problem.

However, if the circuit doesn't work, or it does work but only briefly before it needs to be replaced again, your vehicle's electrical problems go beyond just a blown fuse. It's best to see a mechanic at this point.

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How to Safely Use Basic Hand Tools?

Automotive technicians use a variety of hand tools to make car repairs. Misuse and improper maintenance of your hand tools are the leading causes of injury during car repairs. You should be familiar with the safety procedures for using all of your hand tools and what the procedures are to correctly maintain them.




1.All hand tools should be cleaned regularly. Greasy and oily tools make them difficult to handle and pose a significant threat of injury to the technician. Wipe tools clean before and after use.


2.Use hand tools as they are intended to be used. Misusing hand tools can damage the tool and potentially injure the technician. For example, a screw driver should be used only to install and remove screws. Using your screw drivers as pry bars will damage the tool and cause serious injury if it slips during use.


3.Always wear safety goggles that have Z-87 printed on them. Sunglasses and prescription glasses are not safety glasses. Failure to wear safety glasses or face shield allows metal chips or particles to impact your eyes and cause permanent damage.


4.Do not use hardened tools such as pry bars, hardened hammers or punches on hardened metal surfaces such as the engine head. Hardened metal is brittle and can chip or shatter the surface causing puncture or eye damage. Do not use chisels and punches with mushroomed heads because they will shatter into slivers and cause serious injury.


5.Never use a tool that is in poor condition. For example, hammers with cracked or broken handles. Screw drivers should not be uses on a handheld part because the screw driver can slip and injure the hand. Misusing a screw driver in this fashion is a common injury.

how to use coil spring compressor safety

Inside coil spring compressors are wonderful tools. They can safely do what is unsafe using any other method. Utilizing a threaded central rod, they use the principle of the inclined plane to exert hundreds of pounds of force to compress the coil spring into a short-enough length to remove or install.

Things can go wrong, however, and this tip is intended to help prevent that from happening to you. The threads on the spring compressor are strong, of course, and the tool-steel central threaded rod can easily withstand the tension forces put upon it during spring compression. The problem is friction...



When the spring compressor undergoes the tension/compression forces, the threads are all that is holding things from slipping. As they are turned, great amounts of friction are generated. This friction causes metal-to-metal wear that can quickly damage the threads. Turning the rod further amplifies the forces and, given the right circumstances, catastrophic failure can result.

To minimize this risk, always grease the rod's threads each time you use the spring compressor. Use bearing grease, and spread it liberally over all the threads on the rod. After using the compressor, wipe the threads clean and store it in a plastic bag until the next use.

How to remove/take off steering wheel?

If you want to replace that old steering wheel on your car with a new one, you first have to remove the old one. This procedure requires a special tool, but anyone with average mechanical skills can remove a steering wheel.

1.Park the car with the wheels pointed straight ahead. Open the hood and disconnect the positive cable from the battery before you begin to do any work.

2.Remove the the horn mechanism covering by pulling it away from the steering wheel and removing the screws underneath. If your vehicle has a horn cap, this is removed by pressing down on it and twisting.

3.Take off the spring-loaded metal plunger and remove the horn wire. You can get the plunger off by pulling it straight out---or by turning the plastic sleeve and then pulling it straight out. Now cut off the horn wire that is on the plastic sleeve.

4.Remove the retainer clip over the nut on the steering wheel shaft, and use a socket and a ratchet wrench to remove the shaft nut.

5.Take the steering wheel puller and insert the two bolts through the puller and into the two holes located on the hub of the steering wheel. Then turn the center jacking screw on the puller, and it will pull the steering wheel from the splines on the steering shaft.

How a Grease Gun Works

Grease guns are used to lubricate joints and connections that require re-greasing periodically. The grease gun is a portable device that stores a determined amount of grease. The grease is then pressurized, even slightly sometimes, to pump a concentrated amount of grease from an aperture located on the end of a small hose. The hose is flexible to allow maneuverability in situations where the grease fitting; also knows as a zerk fitting, is placed in a compromising position. Grease guns are found in every reputable repair shop. Most cars used to have multiple zerk fittings on the chassis components and drive shafts. Many newer import and domestic vehicles are now being manufactured with sealed chassis components that do not require greasing. However, once the components fail, the aftermarket replacement of the component most always is supplied with a zerk fitting.

Grease guns are hand-held. Most of the economic ones use a cartridge of grease inserted into the chamber of the gun. Installing the cartridge correctly will make less of a mess and ensure the grease purges out of the aperture correctly. The spring-loaded plunger on the bottom of this type of gun is pulled back and locked in an open position on a slot located at the bottom of the chamber. The top of the grease gun where the trigger and hose attachments are located is then unscrewed from the chamber of the gun. Removing the plastic cap of the cartridge will reveal the grease inside it. This is placed into the chamber grease side down. At the other end of the cartridge, now visible at the top of the chamber, is a flip top can lid. This is removed and discarded. The top of the gun is then screwed back onto the chamber tightly. A few hand pumps of the trigger or lever will prime any air pockets in the cartridge and a small amount of grease will purge from the aperture at the tip of the flexible hose. Each pump of the trigger will produce a small amount of grease.

What Grease Guns are Used For

Grease fittings or zerk fittings are located on many light to heavy duty trucks and SUVs. Some cars are still manufactured with grease fittings on the chassis components. Large commercial trucks have several zerk fittings located throughout the chassis, U-joints, drive shafts and other places that require lubrication. Lawn and garden tractors that use a pinion steering system may have tie rod ends and ball joints with zerk fittings requiring occasional grease. Mower decks for riding lawn mowers often have zerk fittings on the individual arbors of the deck. Industrial equipment for factories often have zerk fittings for machinery used requiring scheduled grease applications.